When in mud my prodrive seems to loose thrust. Reading in the owners manual it mentions something about "load up" when trimmed down in thick mud. It's really freaking aggrivating. Any of you goys that have been running prodrives for a while have any insight on the best way to handle it.

BTW, I'm running a 16" motor on a 22" transom. I realize that it is really limiting my motors performance, and most definately in the mud. With it not being able to really reach down deep in the mud it would seem that the load up- if it what I think it is- would not be as severe.

Not sure exactly what your saying but I run a 32hp PD on a 1648 gatortrax and ive never had any problems with the thick stuff. It does "bogg" down some but thats when you just floor that Bi**H and roll on. Your motor/boat combo might be the problem but like I said I can really only speak for my rig and ive never seemed to have any problems. you got any more info? like explain more specifically what is going on. is it acting like its gonna kill?

I know that the shaft is to short. It's not bogging down, it's loosing thrust.

I think you answered your own question. Cut the transom or go long shaft. I would do the latter.

I dosent have anything to do with the transom length.

Does anyone know what "load up" is or what causes it and how to prevent it? It's like my prop isnt turning as fast as it should at WOT. It's like the clutch is allowing alot of slip. It's not constant and only happens in thick stuff sometimes.

Id guess its the added resistance added by what ever your running in. You have a limited amount of power so there is no way around it without adding HP. I have never heard of anyone talking about it before. But if your running a short LU on a tall tranom hull there is no way your getting the performance that you should be getting.

rpm's arent dropping. just the amount of water and mud being moved behind the prop.

IMsO ~ You ain't gonna be no-where rite with a short engine runnin' on a tall engine transum. It just ain't gonna happen.

Why don't you call KP and ask him? I'm sure he'll tell you exactly what that means.

Its not hard at all to drop the lower unit down. Doesn't take much time at all. I can't speak for changing out the shaft. But I had to drop mine to install my reverse and it didn't take 10mins.

I think that there is some welding involved.

You have to weld the 4 inch spacer onto the saddle. No change in shaft. Its just an extended spline coupling.

I didn't think you had to weld it..

But if you do, pm willet and see if you can hook up with him. I am sure he would do you right on price... He is in your area....

I would go with adding tall transom bracket to that motor long before I would cut that transom down.... regardless of cost or ease..

Also, don't know what you mean by "loading up". It normally means you carb is loading up (too much fuel) and you lose power.

That is not a standard prodrive issue as far as I have ever seen and we run two of them, and have been around a bunch more. Have never had that problem or heard of it.

If it is in fact the motor (and not the way you are running it-stick time is important-don't know your experience level and don't mean to demean it if you have a lot-but i have even seen video posted on here of guys who weren't running it right when getting it unstuck in the mud-there is an art to it) then you have something wrong with you motor. I would start running that down.... Fuel/air/spark. Simple first.

x2 on as long as you have a short transom motor on a tall transom boat, you will never really run right and therefore won't know what is going on....

Good luck and keep us posted.

Footnote: Should your engine load up (lose power) while trimmed down in the
Above conditions, trim up using the hand wheel until the engine is
running normally again.

as per the pro-drive owners manual.

What does it mean?

It means your bogging that big prop down in thick chit. Push down on the tiller to free the prop some so it spin back up to higher rpms. These motors don't have the kind of power needed to keep the prop at full rpms in thick stuff if you have the LU buried to deep. As stated with a little time on the motor you will be able to feel things out. It is nothing to worry about and any of these motor will loose rpm and thrust in those conditions. Trimming up will also free up the LU but you can do the same by pushing down on the tiller and will find in time that the wheel sucks....... In the harder bottoms we have up here you will find that hydro trim worth its weight in gold.

sounds like joe aint got the commonsense of a jackass.
get you a pirogue and a paddle,easier to operate.

I changed over my PD from short transom model to long transom and yes, I will confirm that you have to weld on the extension. Other than that, the whole process a piece of cake that could easily be performed with basic tools.

Each of these short tail mud motors has specific drive lengths and angles incorporated into their designs. Until you convert to the long transom configuration for your tall transom boat you will never achieve the motor's full performance capability.

Just get a buddy with a welder (remember, it's aluminum) get yourself half rack of beer and get'r'done.

yes you have to weld them on now days

in the beginning you didnt have to

its an easy fix joe you know my number

as for "loading up" like poker said up here its gonna do it big time because its not true mud like down south

Willet, I'll holla.

JC, :middlefinger: