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 Coil problems 
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Post Coil problems
My Prodrive Has been nonstop problems for the past year. A month or so ago she left me stranded. After crackin it open and taking my brand new heads off, i discovered the number 1 cylinder was not firing (valves were black as night, spark plug had fuel on it) i bought and put on a brand new coil and after a bunch of tinkering with other stuff that needed some attention it ran great 1 time for about 15 minutes then i cut it off and now I’m not getting spark from either coil. I made up new diode wiring (matching exactly to the old one) and cleaned up the ground and still nothing. I checked the wire from the diodes at the ignition switch with a test light and wasnt getting anything when the key was turned. Anybody got some advice? Should i just buy 2 new coils and try again? I found aftermarket replacement coils on amazon for $20-$30


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Sun Nov 17, 2019 7:33 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
No offense man, but the only consistent thing amongst the changing variables is the owner. I think it’s time to take it to Marcus or Will or someone else and let them get it running right for you.


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Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:54 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems


Tue Nov 19, 2019 11:35 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
Take the diode out. I ran into a similiar situation on the PD is sold back in 07. I thought it was the fuse that supplys power to the control box. After talking to Peck for a long time, it was decided that the diode was not needed. It was there as added protection. Ran like a champ until I sold it a few year back. The diode is >I in the drawing.

With Diode



Without Diode


Wed Nov 20, 2019 6:22 am
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Post Re: Coil problems


Wed Nov 20, 2019 8:16 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
You lost me me. Unplug what? your talking to the kill switch? Simply pull cover on control box, take a pair of snips, cut it out, replace cover. Bout a 1/2 beer job


Thu Nov 21, 2019 4:12 am
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Post Re: Coil problems


Thu Nov 21, 2019 9:39 am
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Thu Nov 21, 2019 5:25 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
You have an external rev limiter??

If so, sounds like you just found your problem.

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Fri Nov 22, 2019 6:58 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
Disconnect wires from lanyard switch. That kills it also. Easy check.


Fri Nov 22, 2019 8:24 am
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Post Re: Coil problems


Fri Nov 22, 2019 8:27 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
Update: i cut the wire where it splits off and goes to rev limiter. Now i can plug one coil or the other in and it will run but if i plug both in it dies..im so confused. Also i tried disconnecting the kill switch from the ignition and it did nothing


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Fri Nov 22, 2019 9:49 am
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Post Re: Coil problems

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Fri Nov 22, 2019 11:55 am
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Post Re: Coil problems


Fri Nov 22, 2019 7:21 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
I totally missed this, but what year model is it? The older Non-CDI engines have totally different coils than the CDI engine. I believe around 2010, the CDI engine came out. The coils have built in diodes to help control the spark which will cut engine off at 4350 or 4700 depending on which ones you have. But also got me thinking that since you have a rev limiter, that it could be Non-CDI.

So......

there is only a few things that can cause this
#1 - Are you positive that you do not have a diode inside your control box where your switches are?


If you do see this, cut it out, its not needed.

#2 - CDI or Non-CDI engine? CDI will have a built in diode in the coils to cut spark or if bad, kill it completely. There is a kill wire that goes to the coils. It can get pinched and will ground out on the intake manafold, thus killing spark and killing engine.

#3 - Kill switch. Its simply there to ground out the coils to kill the engine. A bad kill switch can cause what you are seeing. Since you mentioned you disconnected the kill switch and it still does it, (if you done it correctly) than that rules this out.

#4 - Key switch. Yes they do go out. And the ground terminal on the key switch can and does go bad. If you follow the black and black/yellow wire, they connect at the kill switch and the key switch. So disconnecting the kill switch does nothing if the key switch is bad.

#5 - Remove the rev limiter. Ive been around way long enough to know they don't really work all the time. The rev limiter aught to be your ears and hand on throttle. Know when to let off. Play stupid games with rpms and get stupid results. Just my opinion. I ran a Non-CDI briggs for a few years until I swapped to kawasaki and then sold and never had a rev limiter.

So where does this leave us. Its a lawnmower engine. Don't make it out to be more than it is. Its nothing more than an air cooled engine mounted on a "drive system". I usually don't type all this shit out, but your obviously not mechanically inclined (no offense) and its very easy. But........ don't just start cutting shit if you have no idea what your doing. Its trial and error. Start small, check, then go to next, check. If not and you get impatient, you will be chasing your tail. ;)

So............ again where are we.

There are only a few wires that are actually needed to make the dame thing run. I know because I have rewired my engine and others more thna anyone on this site. If I find 1 wire that appears to be dry rotted, I rewire the entire thing. Its very easy for peace of mind. No reason to have a thousand dollar machine that will leave you stranded.

Orange - power wire from battery to the key switch. Usually has a inline fuse to protect all switches in control box. My older 07 ( I added it ) didn't have one but later models came with it.

Yellow/red - wire from key switch to starter solenoid. It connects from key switch to the PTO then out the PTO to the starter solenoid. For safety reasons so you can't start it in gear.

Black - Ground (this is where the diode will be installed. Its prevents an electrical short from backing up into the key switch frying all sorts of shit. It connect the ground wire from round terminal on key switch to the purple/red wire to clutch. Thus if clutch has issues and draws too much current, the diode protects the control box. As I mentioned after looooong talks with Peck many moons ago, its not needed because if the clutch indeed goes out or gets bad enough, it will blow the fuse on the orange wire that protects the control box)

Black/yellow - Kill. Wired from key switch to the coils. Also tied into the lanyard kill switch

So really all that is needed to make the engine run is 4 wires. Actually only 3, but the black/yellow wire to coils allow it to kill.

Purple & Purple/red - clutch wires that connect to PTO and bump button (again check for diode)

Red - Connected from starter post to Rectifier or voltage regulator to charge battery.

All I can preach to you is don't start cutting wires if your not 100% sure you know WTF your doing.

Personally if it were me, this is what I would do:

#1 - Double check and make damn sure diode is removed from control box .

#2 - remove rev limiter all together. Follow wires and remove it. Too much shit can an will go wrong with those damn things.

#3 - Trace wire from coils back to key switch. Look for any cuts or other issues with wire. If found, replace the wire. If the wire is in good working order, disconnect it from the back of the key switch. turn key and check for spark on both coils. if spark is good = bad key switch

#4 - Disconnect the wires to the lanyard kill switch while leaving everything normal on key switch. If have good spark = bad kill switch

When all else fails, check every connection, terminal, quick connect. A loose wire connection will have you pulling your hair out also. Like i mentioned, I usually don't type this much to explain stuff, a phone call could have worked, but I'm sippin coffee this morn in my office and had time.


Mon Nov 25, 2019 5:30 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
For banded to type all this out, he must be bored at work, or REALLY inclined to help you out. :lol:

You better not fuck it up! :lol: :lol:

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Mon Nov 25, 2019 6:34 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
kinda both :lol:


Mon Nov 25, 2019 6:41 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
Hahaha, better not ask another damn question now.

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Mon Nov 25, 2019 8:16 am
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Post Re: Coil problems


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Mon Nov 25, 2019 8:21 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
2008 is non-cdi, remove rev limiter


Mon Nov 25, 2019 9:30 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
Update if anyone is still willing to help trouble shoot:

Tried 2 brand new ignition switches

Disconnected kill switch completely

Rewired from ignition to coils, twice

Cut wire from coils to rev limiter

Replaced coils twice

Motor is running great without wires plugged into coils and if i plug in just one of the coils (#1 or #2, it doesnt matter) it still runs fine but the moment i plug in the other one it kills it.

Im at a loss. Nothing has made any difference


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Sat Dec 07, 2019 12:36 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
Update if anyone is still willing to help trouble shoot:

Tried 2 brand new ignition switches

Disconnected kill switch completely

Rewired from ignition to coils, twice

Cut wire from coils to rev limiter

Replaced coils twice

Motor is running great without wires plugged into coils and if i plug in just one of the coils (#1 or #2, it doesnt matter) it still runs fine but the moment i plug in the other one it kills it.

Im at a loss. Nothing has made any difference


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Sat Dec 07, 2019 12:38 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
You ready to take it to prodrive yet? The amount you’ve spent on misc parts and the damage done is more than it would have cost for them to fix it.


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Sat Dec 07, 2019 12:59 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
Oil sensor unplugged?

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Sat Dec 07, 2019 1:00 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
Russ is correct.In the future easiest way to test is unplug both coils with key on and connect test light to battery + other end to wire you unplugged from coil at this time if every thing worked properly light would be off but in your case light will be on now start unplugging kill switch,oil pressure,etc until light goes off the wire could be chaffed somewhere causing a short to ground also.


Sat Dec 07, 2019 5:36 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
Poodrive junk

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Sat Dec 07, 2019 11:07 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems


Sun Dec 08, 2019 10:28 am
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Post Coil problems
[quote="bluesky2012"]You ready to take it to prodrive yet? The amount you’ve spent on misc parts and the damage done is more than it would have cost for them to fix it.


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I’ve spent about $60 on this problem...you couldn’t pay a mechanic $60 to hit it with a hammer. Also idk what “damage” you’re talkin about


Sun Dec 08, 2019 11:44 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems


Sun Dec 08, 2019 11:53 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
You might not have one on the 08. When you plugged in the coils, did you start it with the cover off or did you put it all back together and then start it? you have a ground issue. The coil is grounding out thus causing it to happen. Simply replacing the ground wire from the coils to the ignition switch may not be enough. The reason I ask with the cover on or off is I have seen when placing the cover on, the ground wire can get pinched on the intake manifold and ground out on the intake manifold causing them to not work right.


Mon Dec 09, 2019 4:46 am
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Post Re: Coil problems


Wed Dec 11, 2019 10:19 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
CDI coil


NON-CDI coil


And if I remember correctly, make sure you have them in the right direction. Meaning up and down. the CDI have a built in diode that cuts spark and if installed wrong, won't work.


Thu Dec 12, 2019 4:25 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
Did you check your model code go find the right coils for yours or did you just order "briggs 36 hp coils" from the interwebs?

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Thu Dec 12, 2019 6:09 am
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Post Re: Coil problems
When u cant plug in both coils or it kills it is the diodes at each coil not doing their job. Maybe they failed or they are in backwards. I would grab a factory diode harness to put on the coils


Thu Dec 12, 2019 10:34 am
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Sun Dec 15, 2019 6:51 pm
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Sun Dec 15, 2019 7:01 pm
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Post Re: Coil problems
Did you ever figure this out? Based on your other post, I'm not 100% convinced that those are non-cdi coils. Hopefully someone else with more knowledge about these coils can clarify.


Fri Dec 20, 2019 1:50 pm
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