I would love to hear about any rev limiter progress.

I have searched and tried to find something but so far come up with nothing.

Hate running without one.....

And again, thanks to all the guys pioneering this!

At the moment I am running a carb and heads decked .050 with stock cam and it's pretty much comparible to a stage 2 Briggs and after busting through floats last night frogging I'm really impressed with low end . I have a 18/54 center console empty I have seen speeds of up to 32 mostly a solid 31.5 I run between 29/30 with two men 24 volt trolling motor three batteries icechest and gear and fully loaded with a 4 man load anywhere from 26/28 depending on wind and water conditions so I figure once I get a good cam I'll be at around 30 or so with a heavy load and 33 with a stock prop on a average 2 man trip with no oil leaks hell if it don't blow up I'll be happy.

No cb I don't like the 310 cam at all and you are doing good sharing your experience in just saying to the guys like you pick up the phone if you are going to buy a motor call one of us and ask what ever you need all are willing to help we have a group text that will kill your battery every day on these Kawasaki projects I think there is a ton of info that hasn't made it here for multiple reasons if you say one thing fails you can wind up with 3 pages of complete bullshit that's why a few of us don't say much . Cause if you got 3 pages of garbage to read two informative post is it worth it I think lately the site has gotten better maybe the thread will do better than the past but again feel free to text with questions all of these guys are willing to help and again I think the 310 Cam is not the best cam it's why I don't have one in my new motor .i prolly won't play with cams for a while but when I do I'll inform you with results

Yeah, that was my fear that people weren't posting anything negative because of the bullshit and especially the bullshit from someone like aka/rooster...

But we all just have to ignore his and others verbal diarrhea and focus on the real info that is posted from those that are actually doing, not those who wish they could.

Again, thanks man...

I'm not blaming anyone for my mistakes. They were mine and mine alone. That doesn't fall on anyone else. Hiding some of the most important information about these motors is where my issue lies. And then getting pissy when someone comes forward and tries to warn others makes it even more frustrating.. I never pointed any fingers. I don't expect anyone to apologize to me, or help me fix my problems. I just want the info out there so others, at very least, know about it and can use the information to make an informed decision...

Cb for the record I'm happy you are posting your experience reason I say I don't like 310 is stock cam has more bottom end in my opion 310 is a lil faster on top but I rather the bottom end there is a happy medium we just got to figure it out but I encourage the rest of you try different cams if everyone just jumps on a 310 we will never find a better cam these motors are not Briggs few cams are being worked on by web cams at the moment hopefully we will see good results

Another thing we found cb is that a few of the cams we got weren't actually what we ordered I don't want to bash on cam companies but I ordered a 308 plus 6 and got a 308 retarded 1.5 degrees also making it hard to get the results we are looking for when you get shit like this at 225 a grind

I have a billet cam that's not ground yet hopefully soon when I start cam shopping again I'll get it cut good possibility the gear will be adjustable so I can advance and retard not sure yet

I decked .050 but did this.

20150519_182617.jpg

Come one man. This is all new. At the yime, the 310 +4 was the best out there. Within the last month. Decking .050 with the stock cam has proved to have great results. So I decked .050 with the intention of indexing my pistons. So yes I'm still running .310 with .050 decking but my pistons are indexed.

Folks who are just jumping into this project and it knowing wtf there doing, are delusional. It's the same with the briggs. Push the mofs to the limit, then dial it back to be reliable. There is also a lot of info that the 6 of us are not putting on the site because to be honest, I don't want all the phone calls as of now. People like yourself who have knowledge of the internal workings of the engine are good. But I'm like Jerimiah, there is no kit. At the time the info was the ..310 + 4 was the shit. But other options are becoming more impressive.

This is how I measured them, and this is where the info came from:
http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=57.0


The next method takes a little practice but is great if you dont want to take the heads off the car, although it will be necessary to replace the intake and exhaust valve springs on one of the cylinders. I use a checkign spring, but if you don't have a dedicated light weight spring, take a trip to your local hardware store. Remember the spring only has to have enough pressure to keep the valves fully closed and return an open valve back to it's closed postition.



Ok let's jump forward, you have replaced the intake and exhaust valve springs with lightweight springs. Now you want to adjust the rockers to zero lash. What is important here is if you are using a hydraulic type cam, wether it be a hydraulic roller or flat tappet hydraulic cam. Do NOT preload the lifter. All you want to do is take all the movement out of the pushrod WITHOUT collapsing the plunger in the lifter. Make sure you do this adjustment when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam which is at top dead center on the compression stroke.

So now we have the valves ready for measuring. You will need feeler gauges set to 0.100 thousandth's. Start with your piston at top dead center and rotate one full revolution in normal operating rotation. Keep your eyes open now, as the piston starts traveling back up the bore the exhaust stroke starts to occur and the exhaust valve will start opening. Watching the valve train you will notice the exhaust valve opening till it's fully open. As you are approaching top dead center you will notice the intake valve starting to open before the exhaust valve is fully closed. This is the area of overlap, usually about 10-15 degress before and after top dead center. Both the intake and exhaust valves are open and the piston is near the top.

During this overlap point is when you want to measure the piston to valve clearance. The piston is so close to to the top that you can push down on the nose of the rocker and actually feel the valve making contact with the piston. Now with your feeler gauge set to 0.100 insert the feeler gauge between the valve stem tip and the rocker arm. If you can insert the gauge at 0.80 for the intake and 0.100 for the exhaust then you have enough piston to valve clearance.

Clay's issue was a result of

1.) Silliest rocker design in the history of rocker arms
2.) Slightly off valvetrain geometry with a lot more aggressive camshaft
3.) Junk valve springs that were supposed to be what was needed for said cam

It didn't have dick to do with being a recall head. Any head would have broken if those particular circumstances happened to it. Unless it was some gorilla head with rocker stand girdles, in which case it would have punched a hole in the piston and broke some valves and been in a lot worse shape.

The bad findings need to be shared along with the good, not just "yeah man I'm running this cam with these valve events and these springs and this decking and hell she runs like a raped ass ape way better than a briggs and nobody had any trouble yet so do it!!!"

From what I understand that's about the extent of the direction he got when he decided what to do to it

I will say this one time for anyone new I don't think anyone with a Kawasaki has over 100 hours yet so be careful if you need to do this at your own risk don't run out and shave your heads .050 hell it may tear motor apart all these things we are doing don't have many hours behind it to prove its a good choice I'm a gambler if it blows I'll start again but I understand some of you may not be willing to take that risk so dont

^well said jerimiah

Cupped up my first motor was sold with a 310 the guy bought it the day after I installed cam it did the same but there was no damage to heads just knocked springs and retainers off and I believe bent a valve I was in Louisiana he was in Alabama and I didn't put two and two together until I saw what happened to yall if I would have had motor here I would have saw what happened but when it happened he did hit something in water and over revved engine so again with only running the 310 cam for 2 hrs before selling it didn't have much info to share at the time really didn't know what the hell happened being the engine was 6 hrs away

Oh yea Kawasaki charging system needs improvement running frog helmet on cranking battery not a good idea

Yeah, it took some head scratching but it all made perfect sense. Only reason I can see CB's didn't drop a valve or knock the retainer off is it had to jam up perfect. Or there wasn't as much adjuster sticking out on clay's, so it just caught the valve stems. Hopefully he's on the right path now. Should be, as long as the springs are right. I felt like the stockers were a lot higher quality than those century springs, but that's just my opinion. So maybe the stockers shimmed are a better option.

Cb to be very honest your motor breaking heads must have happened right about the same time we decked Todd's heads .50 then we did my heads and just about two weeks ago at most bandeds was torn apart and the valves hitting Pistons was discovered but actually he kinda thought it happened when he was running stock springs no real way to be sure then when your mishaps came to light it actually dawned on everyone that there was a issue I am positive the same thing caused the other engine to through valve springs and it also had the aftermarket springs which I really don't think we're any stronger but you can't find shit for springs and we were told they were stronger I do have my doubts about that that's why my new motor has stock springs shimmed .060

I'm digging these "locators" we made... and it's super simple. I hated how the springs can walk around in the seats.

Ya ship me a set

They easy to make. But I'll get you some after caddo if you want.

I'm thinking my next cam will be around 300 lift stock center lines with more duration

And it will come from web cams

I agree on the locator/shims. Pretty trick idea. Especially considering what they're made of.

Isn't the stock cam a big split between the intake and exhaust when it comes to lift and duration?

The stupid jew has a good idea occasionally...

ya most cam builders are saying the different lifts aren't important they say just run all same lift I'm not sure if I agree I think it's just easier for them

I mean, the engineers who designed that engine had to do it for a reason right?

Finally getting caught up here... First and foremost cb I hate that it broke. I wish we had more resources to "work up the build", but sadly we all have regular jobs. No one knew exactly what was happening until yours broke and banded's heads cam off to be decked further which has only been a few weeks. I still want to know why it's only happened to #1 cylinder but haven't convinced myself of a solid answer. We've run into a problem and we're working to correct it. I'm a little thrown off about the "hiding a problem" attitude. I understand your frustration but I guarantee everybody here is willing to help to the utmost of their ability. I degreed two cams as of late, checked everything nine ways to Sunday and I'm telling you (the modded MM world) if you aren't buying a cam from a reputable dealer that checks them you damn sure need to check it yourself because there can be a lot of variation. I understand the p2v method you're using cb but a dial indicator and degree wheel would probably be better IMO. I just put a .308 lift in my engine that had slightly less than 100* ICL and it only has .059" intake clearance at 6* ATDC. I haven't run anything taller than .308 lift and don't plan to. I'm waiting on one now that's slightly less lift. Crawling into my cylinders to check for kisses recently didn't reveal anything either. Obviously .310" (which may be quite a bit more or less) is too tall without indexing and adjusting rocker geometry. Lower lift seems to push the rpm's where the valves float a lot higher with stock springs +/- 5k. Rev limiter is still in the works btw along with a quiet high flow exhaust. Also a custom intake so she'll breathe better. Peace

I just discovered mine having the valve hit the piston issue a week ago. I've got a 132 hours on the Kawi and thought everything was fine and dandy, and by simply shaving down the pushrod it would be. Yea the 310 may not be the very best cam, but I've had pretty damn good luck with mine. I'm fooling with a new setup simply because its something to do. I don't know when I will have my cam from Web, it turns out they are going to be about as slow as iskey. I'm gonna run the stock cam for a little while to get a good baseline on how the grinds I chose from Web compare. I went with 283 lift and 220 duration on the intake, and 302 lift and 240 duration on the exhaust. Stock centerlines. We will see how she does. And like I said, I've been pretty happy with my 310, here is a little clip of it running. https://youtu.be/C7qQM01fDI0

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I read the whole thread last night and it is very informative. I will definitely consider this engine if my BS ever grenades. If I do buy one, I would only port and polish the heads and intake and add a Mikuni and high flow exhaust, because I like keeping things on the less radical side. I just want to be able to haul a four man hunting load in a Phowler Extreme 1856 with a 2014 GenIII, be able to get on plane and run in the mid 20's.

My hats off to you guys that are putting the time, effort and resources into figuring this out.

You won't have any problems doing that