Nothing done to spare

image.jpg may sell this to

So, I have been to every motorcycle shop in town trying to find a replacement valve lash screw. I have been un able to find one that matches size and thread pattern. My plan now is to order a second set of rockers. I am going to attempt to drill and tap to make on of the flat ball style rockers work.

I had a question for Bug.

When you said you spaced the rocker, did you mean you put a space on the shaft to prevent the rocker from being able to slide on the shaft and keep the intake rockers higher to make the lash screw stay more centered on the stem?

Yes, that's what he meant. Keep the rockers side to side action limited. Between the rocker arm itself and the boss.

I got a complete extra set of heads with valves rockers springs valve covers 400$

Since Jerimiah said it, has anyone tried running the 310 cam with stock heads? That would help with clearance and vavle geometry issues...
Would you think it would still having the power to reach 46-4800 rpms with a load?

Not sure

I don't think so, and I think we have some better cam options now. Waiting for Lee to test his .302 240 duration cam from Web. I'm running .050 heads, and a .283 lift 220 duration on my intake and a .302 lift and 240 duration on the exhaust. It pulls like a train, but I have either some valve float or detonation at 4650 to correct, and I haven't had the spare time to address it. Hopefully early next week I can fool with it. I'll attach at short YouTube clip of me running it with the new cam. Its me, a 65 yeti full to the brim, bowfishing setups, and miscellaneous items. I don't feel like I gave up any bottom end over the stock cam at all. https://youtu.be/Z26I8mi9Rfs

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Sorry guys the Kawasaki experiment was fun but being I sold the boat I'm out my next engine will prolly be horizontal but I got almost a complete kawi to sell or part out at a very reasonable price

So it turned out u couldn't figr it out and gave up bc u thought u were a magnificent engine builder lmfao

So it turns out u can kiss my ass I figured it out and decided I wanted a new rig the Kawasaki is great motor if it were horizontal I'd try one on my new rig but they are only offered in vertical . I was completely happy Kawasaki ran 32 on an 18/54 center console with no oil leaks and had more power than a stage 2 Briggs what else is there to figure out what spend 300$ on a cam that might get u 1 mph better and loose on bottom end no thanks I just want new boat something easier to operate so my son and wife can drive while we frogging .

Two 17/54 boats one with a Kawasaki with heads and carb only one with a Briggs cam heads and carb both carrying a two man load frogging the Kawasaki out powered Briggs in every turn strait away and left it sitting still on take off all with out a aftermarket cam stock cam is just better than Briggs plain and simple

Regardless of some other's opinions, I commend you for stepping out of the box and keeping us all informed of your findings. Win lose or draw, everyone following this thread benefitted from your endeavor.

I'm sure they will find a good grind but with the stock cam being such a good cam to start with don't expect a night and day difference like with the Briggs the only thing I can honestly say I prefer about the Briggs is the 50 amp charging system

Yep no matter what aka names himself he will always be the village idiot

I finally got the Web Camshafts cam installed yesterday and so far it's the best grind I've tried. It provided a good holeshot and great top end peaking around 31 mph @ 4900 rpm with a fishing load. Folks lemme tell ya, I was fairly happy with the work that Isky did but Web is in a whole other league! They were awesome, straightforward, no nonsense company to work with. Turnaround was reasonable but what really impressed me was they're quality! Check out a couple pics. This baby has absolutely flawless hard facing, PERFECT lobe dimensions as ordered with a moly coating to insure proper break in! I degreed it like all the others and there's no comparison to ANY other cam shop in their attention to detail. Their prices are a bit higher for custom work but you do honestly get what ya pay for here!

That's not bad for an 18/60 with that load

Well, I think I can say that I'm done fooling with mine for a while. Here's where I ended up a:

-Heads shaved .050 with springs shimmed and push rods cut down.
-Around 5-6 degree timing advance
-42 Mikuni
-Web Camshaft with .283 intake lift and 220 duration & .302 Exhaust lift with 240 duration ground on the stock center lines.

Heads shaved .050 is tight on getting the intake on, but it is do able with getting the bolts started a good ways before you really tighten down the heads. I wish I could go back and try this new camshaft with .025 heads and see what it would do, but oh well. I am very happy with how the engine performs, and I dont see how I could ask for much more honestly within the boundaries of the RPMs that I am comfortable turning. I am currently 150 hours in with no engine issues. I am running a Gen 3 lower unit, so I do not know what this combo would turn up to on a 1.5:1, but I do know that with the stock cam and .050 heads, that it was a 4500 rpm combo on 2:1 lower units and 1.5:1 lower units. I hope this will help someone with a gen3 lower unit that chooses to put a Kawasaki on if their Briggs bites the dust. Here's one last little clip of me running yesterday.

https://youtu.be/QVNIvEiH7OY

OD is correct on the intake. At .050", the intake is getting pretty tight to get on. I'm currently working on an intake with slightly larger runners to see if that will help. A few of us believe that the intake is possibly the bottle neck but sanding it down will cause it to get paper thin and could cause issues.

So questions...
Are Owen and Bug running the same grind?
Bug says "I degreed it like all the others" What does that mean?


I am thinking about ordering another stock cam to run for the time being. Then after you all have a little more run time, have this one reground. Maybe by then someone will have a good idea for a tweak on the above grind.
Speaking of stock cams, where have y'll been ordering the cam from? I am not getting any intant hits when search online parts...

Meanwhile, I am going to go ahead and make some spacers for the rockers to make sure they stay in line. I am not really sure why they are allowed to have that much play out of the box, ut it bothers me so I will address it...

Degree-ing a camshaft:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cNoVRLb73c

They are running a different grind.


Owens:
.283 intake lift and 220 duration & .302 Exhaust lift with 240 duration ground on the stock center lines.

Bug:
.302, 240 duration -intake and exhaust the same, with stock centerline, I believe. He can correct me if that's wrong.

I did get 'em to tweak the centerlines a wee little bit, shhhh! I have one more to try but I'm very impressed at this point. I put mine back together with a stock timing key vs advanced but will try several different degrees to see what it's gonna like.

I ran a 104 LSA 230* duration with .300 lift from Isky that was HOT up to 4500 but was flat above there

I have a shit load of kawi parts heads cam short block intake and more 400$ takes it all

Why do you need new ones?

I am wanting to cut them down slightly to get the geometry closer to where it started. I know I can file down the ones I have... But Jerimiah is sending me a box of parts including stock heads. I figured I would keep the solid ones intact incase I need them with the stock heads for some reason. I also thought is sounded better to cut the hollow one and put the tip back on. The way they fit, I am unsure of the amount to grind off of the solid ones. The tip is round so simply grinding the tip doesn't seem like it will really accomplish much. The widest point on the rod is still going to hit the same point on the rocker and tappet.

I spoke to a friend that works on high performance car engines. He said that they would never deck heads without appropriately adjusting the pushrods. That if I had roller rockers, it may be okay, but he said don't risk it, just get some and cut them down.

How much did you deck and is your geometry off? At .025" I was,still good. But at .050" mine was close so I cut em down.

I'm just thinking aloud through a keyboard but I suppose you could set the lash loose at say multiples of .004" and work backward by the rocker ratio to get the amount to trim. When they're adjusted out enough to achieve proper fully opened geometry I suppose you could use that divided by R/R. Or try to find a couple adjustable checking pushrods, I looked quite a bit and found one that'd work on the exhaust but not the shorter intake.

Some déjà voo goin' on there! ^^^

I am back on the valve spring topic.

At some point someone mentioned the stock springs being about 18lbs. Where did that information come from?

Using a basic spring rate calculator I am coming up with 34lbs. If this is correct, it may be the reason that the Century springs did not perform well.
In all actuality, when i have a stock spring in one hand and a Century in the other, the stocks do feel stiffer.

Isky, is going to regrind my cam when I decide what I want. But I just had a discussion with him about the RPMs we are running vs the lift on some of the cams. He said we all probably need heavier springs... Even on the stock cam, to prevent float. We are taking a 3600 rpm design and adding 1000 rpms plus to it. To expect that the stock springs would keep up might be an oversight on our parts...

Thoughts?