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Don't kno if anyone has this but I am going to build a gauge cluster for my HD 45 MB, with oil temperature, oil pressure, and fuel pressure gauge to monitor the facet pump and fuel system.

I was wondering if anyone has a known oil pressure, and temperature range when running there 45 MB?

Planning on using purely mechanical gauges, just need an idea on the pressure and temp ranges to find the needed gauge range...

Thanks for any help!

1754SVW Excel -- HD 45 MAG MB

i looked into this also, oil temps were about the same as water temps on a car, pressure will be as high as 40 psi, when its really hot it will barely read oil psi.

Kind of been trying to find out some of the same info.

Been running a oil temp gauge for a while. But not sure what the temp should be. I have just been monitoring for a change/spike more than anything.

My base line before current mods (adding cam and decked heads a little more) was 195-205. Currently running 225 turning 4000 rpms and was a little worried that was getting high.

There is a thread on oil temp/head temp currently running on the other site so if anything more gets posted up I will update here.

So far best info is oil breaks down starting at 250 so if you are under that you are good to go...

Marty had some oil temp results and I think he said he was at around 230 with mods and got it down to around 195 by adding the trans cooler along with the stock cooler. I have a pressure guage and I am around 50 psi WFO on a stage-1 PD. Not sure on my temp but Im running both coolers.

I've been looking for the same info. Caddobrook posted all the info I've gotten so far.

I did figure out that head temps would probably be the best temperature to monitor if you were gonna pick something. Oil temps won't tell you a whole lot about how the motor is running from what I could gather. Monitoring oil temps will help to make sure your oil is not breaking down,but won't give you much more info than that.

If we can find out what temps you start to damage stuff like pistons, walls, valves, I think we will have a lot better info to determine how the engines are running. Monitoring the head temps will give you info about what's going on in the combustion chamber and it would seem that monitoring those temps vs oil temps would be a lot more important.

Caddobrook is running a smaller secondary cooler as well.

I was also planning on adding a auxillary oil cooler on the front of my engine, and using the OEM fan on the front of the engine to help the heat transfer.

I was planning on adding dummy lights onto these gauges, if something hit a setpoint it would trigger a led light to let me kno what is going on, but this may not do me much good if the oil pressure drops out when hot. I can get pyrometers for the exhaust to tell me what the EGT's are running and the relation between the oil temps and pressure drop, and the EGT's in conjunction with parts failure **MAYBE_.

I would think that the High Oil temperature, and the dropping oil pressure have something in common, I kno on the industrial engines that I work on if the Oil temperature gets above 200* you are in trouble, but these are liquid cooled with oil coolers and huge 1680Hp.

Has anyone tried a oil cooler with auxillary electric fan mounted to it? Sounds like i have alot of research and development in my future...

i would not block off any flow thru the blower housing. the fan is used to cool your engine cylinders.

Mounted on the outer fan shroud it does not block air flow.

Thats exactly how i was thinking of mounting it, is that a B&M oil cooler?

i just took the stock one and mounted it in front of the fan with longer hoses. i also removed the grass screen from the flywheel to improve the airflow. no matter how hard i run my engine, you can hold your hand on the oil cooler. on my stock gdsd with the cooler in stock location, the cooler got hot as hell after running a while.

Yeah for sure, Oil Temp is a big deal to these Air Cooled Engines.

Have you heard of anyone running a Pyrometer on there exhaust for monitoring purposes, and if so, wouldn't that only tell us if we were rich or lean?

I am just curious what my best gauge options would be to have the most insight on how the engine is performing... Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure...I suppose.

so poker 1 please explain to me at a idle or just off idle you are not slowing down your air flow with cooler blocking off 50 % of your blower housing ? these engines don't use a clutch fan. your placment of fan moving down the lake at speed will work but not a a idle. there is no way i would run that setup in these temps. just my .02

at speed maybe. at lower rpm's ain't going happen. been there done that. it don't work.

I removed the grass screen. Dont see a need for it with a MM.

if you guy's would go back and read my original post where is that i said anything about oil temps ? my concern is in the cooling of the engine block. you put anything in front of the blower housing you are resticting air flow. you are just bringing in more hot ambient air into the housing. look at your pictures poker 1. if briggs or kolher had a oil temp issue it would have been adressed a long time ago.you guy's can put on all the coolers you want it don't matter to me. poker 1 how do i know this. we have a evp smoke machine. and i'am sure if you had and used one you would concer

If someone has a IR thermal scanner. I guess it would be easy to take some temp readings off the block and heads from both. It makes since more air flow with cooler air would help. But just what is being lost can't be exact by flowing some smoke over it. I'm not mechanic and if it is a fact that it hampers engine life its not a good thing. It does seem to me that if the temps were being hampered it would have some corrolation to oil temps. I work around HVAC guys that use these things and I'll see if can get ahold of one. Maybe someone here has one.

I have an infrared temp gauge and have shot it at different locations on motor, but have not a/b'd it with cooler on and off.... but would be difficult to do on the water under real conditions, and not sure what good it would do on trailer....

Not a thermal scanner though....

Temps concern me greatly so the more info we can get (good info SPECIFIC TO OUR APPLICATION) the better in my book....

A thermal imager would be awesome if one of use could find one somewhere to use, and get some data.

You could do it on a natural air cooled mud motor and then on a mud motor with all the add on's and oil coolers to mediate the heat.

Compare the two and see how big of a curve ball we hit out of the park..!

Hey i just thought of something that i have not thought of, or heard of on here. One way to get some more heat away from the engine if you have dual exhaust is to wrap the exhaust with the fiber tape. Or you could get your exhaust ceramic coated to get the exhaust heat away from the engine.

We have done this on our four wheelers and side by sides in the past to minimize under seat heat. I know i might be getting a little crazy on here but just thoughts...

Great thread, looks to me like if you change your oil alot your going to be ok, .... great stuff guys!

This forum is like hunting public lakes, you work ducks for ten minutes, they are making there last pass. and someone pop shot's em' and they are educated from that day forward.

If everyone would read the entire thread, then post.

The oil temperature has a direct correlation with the longevity of the engine, and we are trying to decide the best way to keep the temps low. Air and oil both go hand in hand to mediate the temperatures on these engines. I have learned a lot from this thread and hope it has helped everyone out there

The gauges are all mechanical, no amp draw, the fan on the aux oil cooler was a idea, and question about the fan's amp draw. I c that the fan would draw to much at 6 amps. I believe the oil cooler on the fixed fan is the best solution, and it should not affect the CFM of air flow at low fan RPM's. We are talking that the problem would occur at idle right? There is not much restriction generated by the way that the cooler is mounted in the above picture. S.S. braided hoses to your buddy's oil cooler would solve those puncture issues, and they are not to high considering the price of major engine work and parts due to failure. I am planning on running everything with S.S. braided hoses and keeping the wiring and hoses going up to the engine bundled and wrapped with some sort of loom to minimize the risk of breakage and puncture, fuel, oil, wiring, etc all in the loom and S.S. braided hoses.

I will put up some pics, once everything gets done... Hope this thread has helped the guys out there that are trying to protect there hard earned toys.

If anyone could get some thermal images of there engine running under a load, we could figure out the best way to go about protecting our investments.

I appreciate all the helpful posts that were put up. Thanks Gents

I'm not sky blasting your thread, just giving you things to think about. There were a lot of things I thought I 'had to do' when I got my old rig and half of them turned out to be unneccesary while other things were much more critical.

here is some fact - experience - and opinion. #1 sny. oils have a boil point of over 400 degrees and a shear point of 280 to over 300 degrees. i"ve never seen those #s running down the lake. #2 a briggs motor is a air cooled engine. oil cooling the engine plays a small part in its cooling cycle. the blower fan is what cools the engine block. not the oil. mounting anything infront of the blower housing blocks off the cooling capiacty of the engine.please remember this is where the heet is being generated. makes no sense to me to block off the only way my motor can cool itself.why would i want to cut down my air flow and direct more heet to the block. makes no sense to this lawn mower guy as i have been called. if you think that the mounting of a cooler can't effect flow that much try this simple at home test. place your cooler on the back side of a box fan at home and then you will see how much u have cut off the flow. run your fan at its lowest setting compare the flow and and now u will see how this effects the cooling cap. if i was worried about oil temps.i would look at increaseing my oil capacity maybe the use of a bigger larger remote oil filteration system. or the simple solution would be like x-man said change your oil more than once a season. here is some more fact a briggs oil cooler was designed so that it needs no air flow thru it to cool. fact - the cheap blower stamped out housing as said by a poster does a great job of cooling the cylinders on these motors. and yes to another poster it was tested with a smoke machine.

The restriction caused here is negligible. I've seen kohler engines on mud motors with and without external OEM oil coolers. How can this be okay on identical motors, running the same orientation, except for the 2x2 hole in the shroud of the one with the cooler.