Wheres the slot to put the quarters in to get the condom?

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I'm coming through Lafayette tomorrow to around the new I Eric area if u guys wan one I'll carry some with me


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Sorry New Iberia area*


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NOT THE NEW COVER'S FAULT.

But has anyone had the bolt strip out of the aluminum part that you screw the bolt in after changing cover, leaving the cover hanging by only one bolt, and just waiting to go swimming? If so I have fixed that and it is back like it was from the factory. Will post a picture later if some are interested. Don't want to waste space if I am the only one worried about losing a cover, because of a stripped bolt.

Sure post pic someone else might have same issue one day

here is a pic of my new clutch cover with a custom rattle can paint job. Mine was realy tough to get on because the evt was in the way and I will need to get some longer bolts add some washers or something because the nuts are a ilttle to small but Im real happy with how it looks.

Thanks Justin

It can still be put on with studs sticking out of the GTR housing, but it will take a little more effort to put on and off. First you have to remove the original factory bolts and install studs from the inside coming out. The studs I used are the ones that you can put an allen wrench on one end( A special name for them but I don't know it). On the end which screws in from the inside of the housing I double nutted 2 nuts together on the stud and even used red loctite on it as an overkill. To put the cover on, you have to use the allen wrench to back the stud back into the housing, allowing the cover to slide on. Then after the cover is in place, using the allen wrench just screw the stud into the GTR housing, causing it to stick out of the cover. Tighten the stud against the GTR housing, then put flat washer and lock nut on the stud and tighten the lock nut. When you want to take cover off, you will have to back the stud back into the housing with the allen wrench again, but it is on just like it was from the factory. Oh and I also JB Welded a 1/4"x1" flat bar along the right side of the housing, so it would fill in the space between the 2 housings.
In picture you can see the stud I used.

Thanks PG thats what im going to do. Does anyone know what they call those studs.

Rob, I got curious and went looking. It is called a Grub screw
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... Q&dur=1062

thanks

I know this is an old thread... but for those of you making or that have made the aluminum covers, how thick is the aluminum you are using and what grade?

I have a hobby grade spool gun for my hobart 210MVP mig and I'm about to buy some gas in the next week or three to start playing. I have the 3rd gen GTR that no one seems to make a cover for so I'm going to try and make one for myself. I'd do the bolt together version honestly, but I still need to know what kind of metal you guys used even for that one.

I don't have a bender so it will be challenging to use something too heavy. I'll probably bold down some angle to my metal table and make the straight bends best I can without a brake.

This thread just seemed to make the most sense to post the question into.

Thanks for the help

If your going to brake it you will need 5052. 1/8" will work fine.


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Thanks North LA Hunter..... I took some thin aluminum and cut some pieces for the inside and outside this weekend and riveted them through to hold for a while longer till the other side breaks. After that.... I'm going to have to go back to work.

On my motor, it looks like the motor may be cocked just a little bit because the brake rotor is a bit proud of flush on the port side.... it will require adjusting and some flare to clear the rotor. I'm thinking that the adjustment will happen anyway now that I know about it.

Appreciate the help fellas.

Go on down to the hardware store and buy ya self a mail box. Hard wheel grind half of it off. Preferably the back half leave the door, mount it up on der. Then you've got an access door for adjustments and such.

F yes, better than plastic.


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