3rd one in 3 years...get abt 30 hours outta each one. Same spot everytime and I replace them per Boat Dr instructions. It seems the gasket always works its way out from between the cases. Im thinkn I could put a high temp gasket material on there AFTER everything is buttoned up, on the outside of the case to just hold the gasket in place. I think out of balance props cause these because it seems it always starts after long long runs of a couple hrs or more. Any ideas? BTW its a MB 7000 on a 2054 custom boat running a hammer prop and a 32 inch shaft.

Well at least you got an excuse to swap cams all the time.


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Only permanent fix I'm aware of is to get rid of the briggs. It's working out very well for us.

There must me movement between cover and block. This movement "sands" down the gasket. Once they start dancin back there it wont stop till u replace cover and or block to get everything tight again. Exspecially on a 7000. At least it hasnt cracked yet

The internals are not balanced well either. I know someone who has checked a few cranks, and their guess is the tolerance at briggs is 200 grams or so, because they all seem to be out at least that far. Caused him a lot of heartache..

I had to replace the cover last time because i tried to torque it a lil extra after it started leaking. It cracked when it got hot. I actually thought abt trying a new cam...lol...its a 2012 so I assume its a BPS cam. I feel like vibration is casuing it as well, I just assumed it was vibration from an out of balance prop. As long as I limit my runs to like 30 minutes or less, all is well. Its when i go on the long runs it seems to happen. I also replaced the exhaust with a MM to get the exhaust bolt off of the cover thinking that may help.

Your best bet is to eliminate the gasket and run A sealant. You have to machine the cam boss and the timing gear to get the crank end play back into spec.

Install the stud and bushing kit MudBuddy overs. I also made new studs to replace bolts in block and now use Nyloc nuts on the studs hasn't leaked or moved since I did this. Heres what you need for the fix.

Talked to boat dr...he actually doesnt recommend the stud kit from mud buddy...well not all of it anyways. He does recommend the bushings just not the studs. I had thought I ordered the hardened bolts last time I replaced my cover and gasket but now that I think abt it, Im thinkn he was sold out when I ordered, so Im not sure. So, I ordered some this time anyways. He also recommended putting a lil bit of black rtv around just the area that leaks before I put it together. He aslo said a good fix was to remove th gasket altogether and use rtv but required more work. So if Im gonna do all this, which cam should I buy? LOL

I can see why he didn't recommend the MB studs, you have to enlarge the holes in the case so the larger studs will pass thru the case. Not everybody has a drill press to accurately drill out the two holes, and if they aren't drilled straight the case can be ruined from miss alignment. Also the new gasket has to have holes enlarged too. I used a Dremel tool with a cone shaped stone to do that. I put the RTV on block and gasket where the oil pump journels are and to hold the new o rings in place while assembling. I made my new block studs from grade 8 bolts and ran a die down an Inch. Cut them to length from 109m cap screws.

Just a word of advice here as all the comments are on point, the MB kit uses stainless studs, they break (a lot). I once got ticked with the leaking sob's and RTV'd it also. Eventually that engine blew the whole jug off! Cracked all the way around. The RTV hides the problem but the block, gasket and sump are eating each other. Here's the remnants of a gasket with a really good RTV job hiding the gremlin.

I have had decent luck with thin layer yamabond on both sides gasket, then I found some stuff called Vibra-tite at local fastenal to use instead of regular loc-tite and seems to be doing good on couple motors I help change gaskets on. I clean all bolt holes with thread tap then brake cleaner then crompessed air.

Don't have it handy at the moment but I believe it is 8x1.25metric

Tack weld it so it won't move

Just weld it all the way around. It's a briggs anyway so you know it's gonna grenade beyond repair one day.

It's simple. get a mud motor. shoot ducks in the face.

No, been trying to talk somebody else in to it. Hahaha. But seriously, I would if I had that problem. The root of the problem is the block is two piece, if you like the cam, why not tack weld it in a few places to keep if from moving? You could grind them back off if you had to get back in it but 99% chance you won't in reality.

Stainless is junk, tack welds are cheaper.

Anyone have link to boat Dr instructions to torque this? I can't seem yo find it.

Got a question abt the torquing sequence the mechanic and in disagreed abt last time. We torqued them in the prescribed sequence and then one at a time removed them to loctite them. Yet we didn't tighten that one bolt back, left them all loose til we had done all of them then retorqued per sequence. I think we should have removed the bolts one at a time and torqued that bolt after loctite by itself and then moving on to the next bolt til all were done. Looks like it defeats the purpose to even torque them the first time to loosen them back up.

saw on mud motor central where guys were eliminating the case gasket by having it machined or something... just a thought Tracey

Yep, but its better than the Gasket!

Welcome me to the club. 25 hrs after mods. Noticed it was where I bolted the BPS Q.... New case and gasket what else?

Bare blocks retail starting about $700.00

I know a guy with some briggs parts for sale...