Doing some scouting Saturday and when I done with the first spot and started to crank the motor it was hard to start. Finally fired up but idled around 500 rpm (usually idles at ~800ish). So I was going to check the push pull cable (console control) but it eventually started running fine (in a matter of a few minutes). So now there's nothing to check. Anyone have any thoughts? Could this be the onset of the wiring harness issues that some have with the efi motors?

The idle works like this.. There is an Idle air control valve and a Throttle Position sensor. The TPS is ONLY there to tell the ECM "hey I'm at idle", signal the IAC valve to keep the designated idle speed regardless of load.
It requires removing the air filter assembly, make sure the throttle is against the idle stop, plug the IAC, set the idle speed to 650-700 with IAC PLUGGED, then release the hole to let the engine IDLE up... From this point you will already have back probed the TPS plug and have the Multi Meter set on AC volts. You adjust the TPS to the required voltage listed in manual. I cant think off the top of my head the exact number. After this you are all set. Clear ECM memory and move on.

Doesn't particularly sound like a job easily performed in the swamp. From your description it makes me wonder if something got on the IAC hole, if it did then it cleared itself up pretty quick. While this was happening it seemed like something funny was going on with the battery power (my fish finder turned off on its own, never did that before) I switched to the other battery it didn't really seem to help the idle at first but it did start to clear up then. It seemed to still rev up so the IAC seems a little suspect. It's working fine now so there's really nothing I can do other than wait till it does it again.

Check your battery and ground connections at the battery, Engine, and starter terminal.

Mine started hard aswell however ran great. I just adjusted the valves to .004 on intake and .007 on exhaust and its fires right up now. Have not had a chance to run it on the water yet.

Another reason for hard start is the CPS can be a touch farther away than SPEC.
Valve lash FIRST, then check codes for P0336 (CPS noisy circuit).

I haven't had a chance to run it since the last time.

How do you check the codes? If there is no blinking like on the tiny tach then there's no codes right?

If you do not have a new style tack with a CEL, You have to reun the ecm sequence for blink codes and add a temp CEL, or plug in a tiny scan, OR use the Briggs Technician assistant.

tinytach.jpgHere's the kind I have

Thats a walmart special. No check engine light on that one

That's what came on it from Gatortail. Can I get one with a check engine light? If so where?

How much does that run? Brief search online isn't turning up much, where can you buy that stuff from?

Local briggs dealer. When they updated the harness they have an additional plug for a Tach.