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 Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek 
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Post Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
My first attempt at a scissor blind. I searched for boat clamps made by the now defunct Rock Solid Blind Company and finally found a set on Ebay. I was hoping to find the 90 deg. slip on pieces as well, but they didn't offer them on Ebay at the time. They now offer the kit with clamps and elbows... I highly recommend the kit vs all of the couplers that I had to use for a 10' plus blind. I'm still may spot weld the couplers once I see how they hold in the field. So far they are pretty solid with the extra supports I made. I have about $250 into this blind (including camo material) and it covers and area roughly of 11'x6'. I'll add more photos as I go along.


Measurements made, main frame assembled and painted. Blind material purchased.
Attachment:
20181003_151053-780x1040.jpg


The measurements are off a little from bow to stern as to match the boat fab line, hence the 'roughly' 11'x6'. It is narrower up front by about 7" but does not hinder function in any way and lays neatly on the top rail. Just an fyi if you decide to do the same.
Attachment:
20181003_151101-780x1040.jpg


Material is a coated fabric that I picked up for $5/yard. Most places want $15-$17 at the time of this posting. I also purchased two cans of silicone spray sealant to coat the fabric with. I purchased 23 yards and should have enough left over to make both a motor and bow cover. We'll see as my sewing skills are limited. This will be interesting....


Attachment:
20180920_153706-780x1040.jpg


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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
I'm backing up one step to show the frame before it's painted and holes drilled. I'm using 3/4" emt and 1" schedule 40 pvc for the bracing pieces. Couplers are the weak link at this point, I'm not sure how they will fare but they were cheap and it's easy to take apart if need be at this point. I can always spot weld them if more stability is required. It helps to have a couple decoys and what not around to help prop things into place for measurements....
Attachment:
20180928_161725-780x1040.jpg
Attachment:
20180928_161718-780x1040.jpg
Attachment:
20180928_161710-780x1040.jpg


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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
One more pic of the frame before paint.

Attachment:
20180928_161731-780x1040.jpg


A close up of the 'front' facing strut. 1" pvc sched. 40 pipe with a three way elbow on the bottom, T on the top. That is a 3/4" T on the horizontal with a 1" facing vertical to accommodate the 3/4" emt and 1" pvc respectively...
Attachment:
20181009_155247-780x1040.jpg



The rear supports and top swing arm haven't been added yet.

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20181009_155338_Burst01-780x1040.jpg


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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Front support and Rock Solid Clamp.

Attachment:
20181009_155400-780x1040.jpg



I will drill a few more holes in each side to allow for more of a vertical window if wanted. My cat 'Tater' is helping....

Attachment:
20181009_155412-780x1040.jpg



Close up of the scissor pin. I'm not a big fan of all the weight sitting on that pin so I added front and rear support struts out of the pvc.

Attachment:
20181009_155355-780x1040.jpg


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Wed Oct 10, 2018 3:22 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
A view full blind frame view.

Attachment:
20181009_155424-780x1040.jpg


I wasn't impressed with how much sag this had in it with just the pins, again... added the pvc supports on front and back. What I did was not go by a specific measurement, but rather raised the rear rail until the front supports started to lose weight, then cut to that length. Not rocket science, but little tricks I found that worked well....
Attachment:
20181009_155512-780x1040.jpg



Rear supports in, needing some paint...

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20181009_185922-780x1040.jpg


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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Top swing arm bracket

Attachment:
20181009_161621-780x1040.jpg




Almost ready for camo cover...

Attachment:
20181009_185856-780x1040.jpg



Looks like I'm doing some double shifts at work for the next day or so, but will be putting the material on soon and will share pics. Any questions or suggestions are welcome.


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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
For the life of me, I just don't understand why everyone overcomplicates these blind configurations. :roll: :roll: I don't see the need for the support bars to cross one another and to add all that extra hardware and weight. The original "scissor" concept was so much simpler and very functional without all the added hardware, weight, and complexity. I've built a number of these blinds throughout the years and have never had to use any vertical supports. I use 1/3 of the hardware and framing. I can only imagine how long it takes to deploy and take down one of these blinds. You surely realize that you won't be able to operate your motor with the blind up, right? That means every time you drift out of position due the wind pushing on the high-profile "sail" of the blind, you'll have to put the blind down just to motor back into position, chase down ducks, etc. Would never work in some of the areas I hunt where we have to chase down ducks in swift current. I can run my boat with blind up or two quick releases on either end of the blind and the blind is laying flat and I'm running the boat without the blind obstructing my vision and limiting our ability to retrieve ducks and dogs over the side in swift current. To each their own I guess. Some guys just like to tinker but I'd rather be hunting.

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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
I for one appreciate all the detailed photos. It's very close to what I plan to build, particularly with the back being higher than the front, and a roof panel that swings forward from the back.

I like the idea for the support bars and I'll offer a suggestion you might like. Instead of having those vertical supports with 90deg T's on the bottom, put a standard flat T and cut the top off of it to create a U-channel. Then just rest the U channel on the bottom bar of the blind. Doing this, I doubt you would even need the pins where the blind crosses. To put the blind down, simply life the blind, swing the vertical supports into the boat and slide them to the ends of the blind, and let it down. No locking pins.

You could even cut the PVC T not quite halfway in order to get it to snap on and hold slightly if you wanted to. Just some ideas.

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Thu Oct 11, 2018 8:15 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Had a blind like that once, hated it. Too tall, having the pins through the conduit was a terrible design and they broke and made the holes grow in the conduit. Just overall worst blind I had and I tossed it halfway through a season maybe 5 years ago. Also dude those giant coupling things you have in there will fail if they are the same ones I had. They will vibrate and flex the pipes and just die. Just run 1/2” conduit inside the 3/4” the entire length, add a wrap or two of duct tape to make sure the 1/2” has the same OD as the 3/4” ID and it’ll be stronger, then just use small screws to hold it together. Worker better and doesn’t catch blind material etc because it’s smooth.

Since using virtually the same blind design as you I’ve gone MUCH simpler, MUCH more low profile, and it’s way easier to deploy, much sturdier, and just flat out better. I’d bet everyone on here has tried a few different designs and their first 2-3 stunk. Live and learn.


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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
bluesky2012 wrote:
Had a blind like that once, hated it. Too tall, having the pins through the conduit was a terrible design and they broke and made the holes grow in the conduit. Just overall worst blind I had and I tossed it halfway through a season maybe 5 years ago. Also dude those giant coupling things you have in there will fail if they are the same ones I had. They will vibrate and flex the pipes and just die. Just run 1/2” conduit inside the 3/4” the entire length, add a wrap or two of duct tape to make sure the 1/2” has the same OD as the 3/4” ID and it’ll be stronger, then just use small screws to hold it together. Worker better and doesn’t catch blind material etc because it’s smooth.

Since using virtually the same blind design as you I’ve gone MUCH simpler, MUCH more low profile, and it’s way easier to deploy, much sturdier, and just flat out better. I’d bet everyone on here has tried a few different designs and their first 2-3 stunk. Live and learn.


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Exactly!! Everyone thinks they're building the ultimate blind making it overly complicated and complex. Then, they get it in the field and realize what a pain in the ass it is to deploy and use. K.I.S.S.

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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Mallards Only wrote:
For the life of me, I just don't understand why everyone overcomplicates these blind configurations. :roll: :roll: I don't see the need for the support bars to cross one another and to add all that extra hardware and weight. The original "scissor" concept was so much simpler and very functional without all the added hardware, weight, and complexity. I've built a number of these blinds throughout the years and have never had to use any vertical supports. I use 1/3 of the hardware and framing. I can only imagine how long it takes to deploy and take down one of these blinds. You surely realize that you won't be able to operate your motor with the blind up, right? That means every time you drift out of position due the wind pushing on the high-profile "sail" of the blind, you'll have to put the blind down just to motor back into position, chase down ducks, etc. Would never work in some of the areas I hunt where we have to chase down ducks in swift current. I can run by boat with blind up or two quick releases on either end of the blind and the blind is laying flat and I'm running the boat without the blind obstructing my vision and limiting our ability to retrieve ducks and dogs over the side in swift current. To each their own I guess. Some guys just like to tinker but I'd rather be hunting.


You took the time to reply so I'll break it down the best I can and respond....


Mallards Only wrote:
For the life of me, I just don't understand why everyone overcomplicates these blind configurations. :roll: :roll: I can only imagine how long it takes to deploy and take down one of these blinds. .


Obviously you don't quite grasp the operation of this blind. Two pins and this blind will fold flat, the same as a regular scissor blind. I've only added a top arm bracket, which doesn't have to be used, (this will also double as a deer blind), and the added support struts for stability. I don't see what you think is complicated.


Mallards Only wrote:
I don't see the need for the support bars to cross one another and to add all that extra hardware and weight. The original "scissor" concept was so much simpler and very functional without all the added hardware, weight, and complexity..



The struts don't cross and actually help in operation as I can remove the pins first, then drop each side down using the supports to hold the opposite side, which is nice for an 11' blind..The support poles offer a solid base for the frame so it will not rock in our Michigan November gale force winds. They also swing into the boat for a quick take down. The supports are not permanently connected to the T's, providing easy removal in the off season. The T slides and pivots on the emt for adjustment if needed, and the pvc poles are pressed in and again, DO NOT need to be removed to drop the blind. This also takes the pressure off the cross pins, which I feel is needed in this design of blind, especially this size of blind....


Mallards Only wrote:
That means every time you drift out of position due the wind pushing on the high-profile "sail" of the blind, you'll have to put the blind down just to motor back into position, chase down ducks, etc.Would never work in some of the areas I hunt where we have to chase down ducks in swift current. I can run by boat with blind up or two quick releases on either end of the blind and the blind is laying flat and I'm running the boat without the blind obstructing my vision and limiting our ability to retrieve ducks and dogs over the side in swift current. .


As far as a "sail", that is why I have spud poles, it's not going anywhere. I also have a dog for retrieves. I do hunt rivers but I position the boat in slack water areas and decoy them rather than skybust. I don't have to worry about them landing in the main current.


Mallards Only wrote:
I've built a number of these blinds throughout the years and have never had to use any vertical supports. I use 1/3 of the hardware and framing. ..


You use 1/3 of the components to make one of these? Perhaps for an 8' blind, try building one this size and see how unstable it becomes... Unfortunately I can only find emt in 10' sticks, which does require extra couplers, I agree. Welding probably would have been my best bet, so you got me there. I.E. first blind build...




Mallards Only wrote:
To each their own I guess. Some guys just like to tinker but I'd rather be hunting.


This seemed to be the most practical way to have a dual blind set up for both waterfowl hunting lakes and rivers, and deer hunting on river flats. I don't feel it's too complicated and probably "tinkered" with the frame for maybe a couple hours, which I didn't feel was too bad for the first time doing it. The cloth cover will take more time than anything...

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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Smoke68 wrote:
I for one appreciate all the detailed photos. It's very close to what I plan to build, particularly with the back being higher than the front, and a roof panel that swings forward from the back.

I like the idea for the support bars and I'll offer a suggestion you might like. Instead of having those vertical supports with 90deg T's on the bottom, put a standard flat T and cut the top off of it to create a U-channel. Then just rest the U channel on the bottom bar of the blind. Doing this, I doubt you would even need the pins where the blind crosses. To put the blind down, simply life the blind, swing the vertical supports into the boat and slide them to the ends of the blind, and let it down. No locking pins.

You could even cut the PVC T not quite halfway in order to get it to snap on and hold slightly if you wanted to. Just some ideas.


Thanks for the input. I thought about the idea of a half T after seeing it in a blind build and may go back and revise it down the road if I find the elbows and Ts are insufficient. I kind of liked the sliding T concept as that way it cannot be knocked out of the channel by a dog, boot, etc...That's the nice thing about this is that it can be changed fairly easily. I agree with the cross pins, they are kind of a weak design for this much weight.... The blind may end up too tall but I kind of like having the room inside. I will make sure to sew plenty of stubble straps for added 3d cover.... Thanks again and good luck with your blind build...

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Thu Oct 11, 2018 10:21 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
bluesky2012 wrote:
Had a blind like that once, hated it. Too tall, having the pins through the conduit was a terrible design and they broke and made the holes grow in the conduit. Just overall worst blind I had and I tossed it halfway through a season maybe 5 years ago. Also dude those giant coupling things you have in there will fail if they are the same ones I had. They will vibrate and flex the pipes and just die. Just run 1/2” conduit inside the 3/4” the entire length, add a wrap or two of duct tape to make sure the 1/2” has the same OD as the 3/4” ID and it’ll be stronger, then just use small screws to hold it together. Worker better and doesn’t catch blind material etc because it’s smooth.

Since using virtually the same blind design as you I’ve gone MUCH simpler, MUCH more low profile, and it’s way easier to deploy, much sturdier, and just flat out better. I’d bet everyone on here has tried a few different designs and their first 2-3 stunk. Live and learn.


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I agree with the couplers, I'm thinking either to spot weld them to the conduit or, like you mentioned, run 1/2" inside and either weld or screw them in. I've heard regular black metal pipe will fit snugly. We'll see how they fair after a few river runs and long drives... I kind of like the taller blind. IF the birds show me they like it too by flaring then I'll drop it down. It fits nicely on the gunnels right now. Like you said, live and learn. I have very little $$ into the frame and can always adapt it... Thanks for the input.

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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
trofazz wrote:
Smoke68 wrote:
I for one appreciate all the detailed photos. It's very close to what I plan to build, particularly with the back being higher than the front, and a roof panel that swings forward from the back.

I like the idea for the support bars and I'll offer a suggestion you might like. Instead of having those vertical supports with 90deg T's on the bottom, put a standard flat T and cut the top off of it to create a U-channel. Then just rest the U channel on the bottom bar of the blind. Doing this, I doubt you would even need the pins where the blind crosses. To put the blind down, simply life the blind, swing the vertical supports into the boat and slide them to the ends of the blind, and let it down. No locking pins.

You could even cut the PVC T not quite halfway in order to get it to snap on and hold slightly if you wanted to. Just some ideas.


Thanks for the input. I thought about the idea of a half T after seeing it in a blind build and may go back and revise it down the road if I find the elbows and Ts are insufficient. I kind of liked the sliding T concept as that way it cannot be knocked out of the channel by a dog, boot, etc...That's the nice thing about this is that it can be changed fairly easily. I agree with the cross pins, they are kind of a weak design for this much weight.... The blind may end up too tall but I kind of like having the room inside. I will make sure to sew plenty of stubble straps for added 3d cover.... Thanks again and good luck with your blind build...


I like the sliding T as well. I was talking about the bottom of the vertical support. Instead of the 3 way 90 wedged into the boat, put a T made into a U-channel to rest on the part of the blind that runs along the gunnel.

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Thu Oct 11, 2018 10:32 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
trofazz wrote:
bluesky2012 wrote:
Had a blind like that once, hated it. Too tall, having the pins through the conduit was a terrible design and they broke and made the holes grow in the conduit. Just overall worst blind I had and I tossed it halfway through a season maybe 5 years ago. Also dude those giant coupling things you have in there will fail if they are the same ones I had. They will vibrate and flex the pipes and just die. Just run 1/2” conduit inside the 3/4” the entire length, add a wrap or two of duct tape to make sure the 1/2” has the same OD as the 3/4” ID and it’ll be stronger, then just use small screws to hold it together. Worker better and doesn’t catch blind material etc because it’s smooth.

Since using virtually the same blind design as you I’ve gone MUCH simpler, MUCH more low profile, and it’s way easier to deploy, much sturdier, and just flat out better. I’d bet everyone on here has tried a few different designs and their first 2-3 stunk. Live and learn.


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I agree with the couplers, I'm thinking either to spot weld them to the conduit or, like you mentioned, run 1/2" inside and either weld or screw them in. I've heard regular black metal pipe will fit snugly. We'll see how they fair after a few river runs and long drives... I kind of like the taller blind. IF the birds show me they like it too by flaring then I'll drop it down. It fits nicely on the gunnels right now. Like you said, live and learn. I have very little $$ into the frame and can always adapt it... Thanks for the input.


Yeah man run it for the season or until you get time to adapt. Mine is a lot like the poker1 blind on here. I can show you pics if you want but mine is durable and easy to set up and also removable in 3 mins in my yard. Took a few times to get my design right but live and learn. I will guarantee though the pins will start to hurt the conduit. I moved to just using nylon straps crossing the top and it pops up easier and handles the abuse better.

Any blind is better than no blind, and fortunately aside from blind material, these things are cheap. My entire blind frame including Bimini HW is maybe $60ish and each part can be replaced if needed (though haven’t needed to yet).

Experiment and learn, but also use the best practices shown on here. As for the conduit, yes it’s 10’ lengths, but put 2 together with 10’ of 1/2” conduit inside and you can make it really long without couplers. My boat is the same size and runs from the huntdeck to halfway up my front deck so it’s easily as big as you need but plenty sturdy. Just gotta find what works for you.


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Thu Oct 11, 2018 4:16 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
I fully understand the operation of the blind. As I said, I've made several over the years. It's not just a matter of "pulling two pins" as you claim. You have to pull the supports as well. See how you like pulling those pins once you get the blind wrapped in camo, etc and you have the extra weight hanging off the frame. Also see how much you love you and your dog having to climb over the all the framing and blind at both ends of the boat when the blind is in the down position. I'm sure you're in love with it. We'll see if you're still in love after a couple seasons. Like Bluesky and many others know, there's a lot simpler and easier design that uses way less material, hardware, etc. and is WAY more functional. Mine(which is on an 18' boat) deploys in less than 10 sec, drops down in 2 sec and I can take the blind off the boat in about 2 min. I can also run my boat with the blind in the up or down position and have an unobstructed walkway from the bow to the transom for walking and getting in and out.

Suit yourself. Like I said, I'm sure you're proud of it right now. Just remember I told you so when you hate it after 1 or 2 seasons.

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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Mallards Only wrote:
I fully understand the operation of the blind. As I said, I've made several over the years. It's not just a matter of "pulling two pins" as you claim. You have to pull the supports as well. See how you like pulling those pins once you get the blind wrapped in camo, etc and you have the extra weight hanging off the frame. Also see how much you love you and your dog having to climb over the all the framing and blind at both ends of the boat when the blind is in the down position. I'm sure you're in love with it. We'll see if you're still in love after a couple seasons. Like Bluesky and many others know, there's a lot simpler and easier design that uses way less material, hardware, etc. and is WAY more functional. Mine(which is on an 18' boat) deploys in less than 10 sec, drops down in 2 sec and I can take the blind off the boat in about 2 min. I can also run my boat with the blind in the up or down position and have an unobstructed walkway from the bow to the transom for walking and getting in and out.

Suit yourself. Like I said, I'm sure you're proud of it right now. Just remember I told you so when you hate it after 1 or 2 seasons.


Not being a smarta$$, but would really like to see pics and video of what you've built and how it works.....

Same for you Bluesky, sounds like yall have done a lot of trial and error and have arrived at a result that works well for you.

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Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:44 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
I will be putting the blind back on the boat to get ready for the season some time in the next week or so. When I do, I will post some pics.

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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Smoke68 wrote:
Mallards Only wrote:
I fully understand the operation of the blind. As I said, I've made several over the years. It's not just a matter of "pulling two pins" as you claim. You have to pull the supports as well. See how you like pulling those pins once you get the blind wrapped in camo, etc and you have the extra weight hanging off the frame. Also see how much you love you and your dog having to climb over the all the framing and blind at both ends of the boat when the blind is in the down position. I'm sure you're in love with it. We'll see if you're still in love after a couple seasons. Like Bluesky and many others know, there's a lot simpler and easier design that uses way less material, hardware, etc. and is WAY more functional. Mine(which is on an 18' boat) deploys in less than 10 sec, drops down in 2 sec and I can take the blind off the boat in about 2 min. I can also run my boat with the blind in the up or down position and have an unobstructed walkway from the bow to the transom for walking and getting in and out.

Suit yourself. Like I said, I'm sure you're proud of it right now. Just remember I told you so when you hate it after 1 or 2 seasons.


Not being a smarta$$, but would really like to see pics and video of what you've built and how it works.....

Same for you Bluesky, sounds like yall have done a lot of trial and error and have arrived at a result that works well for you.


Pulled up from the inside (before I installed the waterproof/windscreen behind it)
Image

Rolled up for travel.
Image

To deploy, simply undo the tie straps around the material, grab the front and back buckle and lift up and clip. To put down, just roll up the blind material, put the wraps around the material, unbuckle and it lays flat. No more than 2 mins to put up or take down.



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Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:09 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Looks pretty simple to me and came out very nice bro. I think you did a damn good job on it and I think it will function perfectly for you.

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18x48 custom duck skiff with 40 hp GTR XD with some extras (voodoo, k&n intake, baggy worked merc prop, gatorglide G2)


Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:54 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
I like the mesh camo. Is that rancho safari camo?


I saw this build. Its nicely done and looks sweet, but not what I was looking for for a few reasons.

A. This doesn't look practical for a dual purpose deer/duck hunting blind as you don't shoot straight up for deer.

B. I have a handicap friend who would have a hard time shooting over the rails.

C. Doesn't look fun in a down pour art 40 degrees...

You said you can drive with the blind up ,and that's cool. But I don't see you making anything other than very mild turns with that blind up.... Just a few of my observations. I see what you mean by a quick set up and take down but just not what I'm looking for. Thanks for the pictures.

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1854 Timber Creek, 37efi HD


Sat Oct 13, 2018 8:42 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Fabric time... I used double sided fusible seam tape and a Semi flat felled stitch to connect the two pieces of fabric. It's suppose to retain 95% of the fabric strength and is highly water resistant.
Attachment:
20181011_193351-780x1040.jpg

Attachment:
20181011_193938-780x1040.jpg


Seams are attached and ironed to seal them. Now off to sew.
Attachment:
20181011_211100-780x1040.jpg


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1854 Timber Creek, 37efi HD


Sat Oct 13, 2018 9:02 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
trofazz wrote:
I like the mesh camo. Is that rancho safari camo?


I saw this build. Its nicely done and looks sweet, but not what I was looking for for a few reasons.

A. This doesn't look practical for a dual purpose deer/duck hunting blind as you don't shoot straight up for deer.

B. I have a handicap friend who would have a hard time shooting over the rails.

C. Doesn't look fun in a down pour art 40 degrees...

You said you can drive with the blind up ,and that's cool. But I don't see you making anything other than very mild turns with that blind up.... Just a few of my observations. I see what you mean by a quick set up and take down but just not what I'm looking for. Thanks for the pictures.

Not my blind but mine is similar and I'll respond to your "criticisms."

A. I've killed plenty of deer of out my blind. Just because you don't have a "roof" over your head doesn't mean you can't shoot straight out of the blind. :roll: :roll: Better hope that deer doesn't come in behind you. :o

B. Come on!!!!! Are you gonna claim that your handicap friend is capable of getting in and out of the boat and climbing over your blind frame but he can't shoot out of the top of the blind? Can he stand up??? Does that mean he can't shoot out of a pit blind either?? That one is just lame.

C. Been in plenty of down pours in my blind and it's no worse than being in one like yours. If you can't handle a little rain, maybe you should take up sunbathing rather than duck hunting. That's what rain gear is for. We'll see how your blind holds up once it's in one of those downpours and the fabric you have on the blind becomes saturated and weighs 50 lbs.

D. You're right. I can't make full-on hard turns with my blind up. But I can drive around some, which is more than you will be able to do in yours. If I have to make a hard turn, the blind is down in 2 sec.


Now for some criticisms of your design:

A. How you gonna shoot behind you?

B. Most people stand up to shoot and unlike deer, most duck shots are overhead.

C. Hard on the dog(and hunters) having to climb over blind framing when going from bow to transom.

D. The only fabric that is water-proof is PVC. Everything else soaks up water eventually and will weigh a ton when it gets wet. Good luck raising that blind when it's wet, especially with your "handicapped" friend. Additionally, putting all that fabric backing on the blind only adds weight and an additional "sail" effect.(I got a buddy who put backing on his blind like that and, when the wind blows, I swear you can windsurf behind it) Do you really need that much protection from the elements??? Are you a duck-hunter or a sunbather? With the fabric backing, you will also be limited to viewing only out the front shooting port of the blind. How you gonna watch ducks as they work above and behind you?

E. Our blinds raise with one person. Yours will take two and likely 3, especially when wet. (Two to hold it up while a third puts the pins in.)

F. Ours are lower profile and easier to hide and blend in surrounding cover.

G. How do you think you're gonna keep that third support bar up once you get fabric and camo on it? The weight will pull it down, especially in the wind or once it gets wet.

Those are just a few of the limitations of your design. Like I said, many of us have learned from our mistakes and some have listened to the experience of others rather than overthinking and overcomplicating the build. I realize you're committed to the design at this point and proud of your ingenuity. Just remember, we told you so.

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 8:48 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Wow, again.

Dude, your criticisms and air quotes concerning the dude's handicap are quite tunnel visioned. I know plenty of handicap people that are limited on how far they can raise their arms and would never be able to shoot up. I also hunt in quite a few places that shooting behind us isnt possible with a blind there or not so your open top design wouldn't gain me anything. His blind design would be fine in those situations. Regardless of rain gear, having a roof over our heads in the boat or blind is a nice convenience in many cases, and my boat blind has a roof that I can flip back when I dont want it.

I understand you may have figured out the magic blind design, but it's not the only way to do it, and I promise you that others would find flaw in your design for their purposes. Help him out with suggestions if you want, but kicking him in the nuts and telling him he doesnt have a clue is ignorant at best, and pure troll considering he's posted alot of pics and design information to at least attempt to help others figure out what they want to take from it, or leave. Point him to your blind thread if you think it's so great, but you havent bothered to do that yet.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor


Sun Oct 14, 2018 10:30 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Russ wrote:
Wow, again.

Dude, your criticisms and air quotes concerning the dude's handicap are quite tunnel visioned. I know plenty of handicap people that are limited on how far they can raise their arms and would never be able to shoot up. I also hunt in quite a few places that shooting behind us isnt possible with a blind there or not so your open top design wouldn't gain me anything. His blind design would be fine in those situations. Regardless of rain gear, having a roof over our heads in the boat or blind is a nice convenience in many cases, and my boat blind has a roof that I can flip back when I dont want it.

I understand you may have figured out the magic blind design, but it's not the only way to do it, and I promise you that others would find flaw in your design for their purposes. Help him out with suggestions if you want, but kicking him in the nuts and telling him he doesnt have a clue is ignorant at best, and pure troll considering he's posted alot of pics and design information to at least attempt to help others figure out what they want to take from it, or leave. Point him to your blind thread if you think it's so great, but you havent bothered to do that yet.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor
Oh, I'll add that not all blind fabrics load up on water weight even though they arent PVC. I've got some canvas from amazon that holds a little water, but at 15ftx5ft it doesnt weigh a ton not does it bend the conduit down with the extra weight. Not sure what your issue with that dude is, but seems quite personal for some reason.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor


Sun Oct 14, 2018 10:32 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
People really get butthurt when someone has an opposing opinion. It's ok, I see you are from CA, I understand why now. We don't get much sunshine here in Michigan, sooo...maybe stamp collecting....? Seriously, resort to personal attacks? Your intelligence is underwelming, at best...Try to be civil about it or simply don't respond..

You never answered if you used Rancho Safari camo? I like that stuff. I don't really have alot of time to make a proper response, but I'll give it a go....

Being that we aren't allowed (in this State) to shoot deer while they are swimming, I'll be ok with not seeing behind me as the opening will be facing the land, not the river... But I agree, it would be nice to have some kind of window or mesh behind me... perhaps down the road...

Like I mentioned before, if you are decoying birds and not pass shooting, not much need to shoot overhead. That is your style of hunting, I guess, not mine.... I will typically be tucked up against a river bank or cattails so again, shooting vertical is not needed .... Now if I decided to hunt Saginaw Bay or the like, I may add an adjustment in the blind closer to a V sight window, but I doubt it.

My buddy is able to get around, more than most actually. Standing up is not an option. Pit blinds are not common at all around here, never hunted out of them. We use layout blinds...

I'll have about the same drivability as yours when the blind is up, with exception of the top pivot arm, which will drop out of the way easily. I disagree with the number of people needed to put up the blind, but agree with a longer time frame of assembly to hunt, but that's ok. "Two seconds 'yours' " vs. one-minute' mine' is ok. I can deal with that.... The pivot t's slide on the rail, the fabric is attached with velcro strips, not permanently sewn on to the rail. It will allow the T's to move on the rail by about three feet in either direction. It's hard to explain but I can grab both rails and set them on the catwalk, slide them out, then do the same on the other side, then attach the pins, if I even want to attach the pins. I have found that even with fabric on, the pins are not needed...that could definitely change if wet. I can easily put this up by myself as it sits.

It will be interesting to see if the waterlogged fabric becomes too cumbersome. I will post my thoughts on this as time goes on... Another option would be a brown tarp with some kind of mesh camo attached. I was considering that but ran across this fabric with a poly backing for $5/yd. and couldn't pass it up. If any of this doesn't work like I anticipate I will definitely post it on here for others to see so they won't make the same mistakes and possibly recommend alternatives...

My goal here is to show what I'm building for others to work from. If they like what they see, great. If not, that's cool too. Mallards... if you don't like what I'm doing, that's fine. There are others who are interested in this style of blind.

I'll try to post more pictures of attaching the blind, etc.. I don't know if I can upload a video on here but I'll try that as well. I would like to show how it goes up and down in real time....

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 11:53 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Russ wrote:
Russ wrote:
Wow, again.

Dude, your criticisms and air quotes concerning the dude's handicap are quite tunnel visioned. I know plenty of handicap people that are limited on how far they can raise their arms and would never be able to shoot up. I also hunt in quite a few places that shooting behind us isnt possible with a blind there or not so your open top design wouldn't gain me anything. His blind design would be fine in those situations. Regardless of rain gear, having a roof over our heads in the boat or blind is a nice convenience in many cases, and my boat blind has a roof that I can flip back when I dont want it.

I understand you may have figured out the magic blind design, but it's not the only way to do it, and I promise you that others would find flaw in your design for their purposes. Help him out with suggestions if you want, but kicking him in the nuts and telling him he doesnt have a clue is ignorant at best, and pure troll considering he's posted alot of pics and design information to at least attempt to help others figure out what they want to take from it, or leave. Point him to your blind thread if you think it's so great, but you havent bothered to do that yet.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor
Oh, I'll add that not all blind fabrics load up on water weight even though they arent PVC. I've got some canvas from amazon that holds a little water, but at 15ftx5ft it doesnt weigh a ton not does it bend the conduit down with the extra weight. Not sure what your issue with that dude is, but seems quite personal for some reason.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor

And I'll guarantee you that your canvas and whatever camo you added to the outside of it is 10x heavier than what I use now and I can actually see through mine to watch ducks work without sticking my head out of the blind. My blind set-up would be no more limiting for someone who couldn't shoot up than his is so you can bust my balls if you want but I'm not buying that as a legit excuse just because you went to the Clinton school of politically correctedness. I never said he doesn't have a clue. I only questioned the need to overthink and overconstruct these blinds. I'm fully aware that he's likely not going to change his mind or his design at this point because he's pretty proud of it and, in terms of construction, it's a nice blind. My point is that it will prove to be impractical when it comes to hunting. I know from experience and hunting out of several blinds I've made and buddy's blinds. I've made the mistakes!! I'm always looking for ways to improve my blind but would NEVER go back to his concept as it just didn't work for me. Sorry if seems personal to you. I just don't buy excuses or rationale that doesn't hold water.

Attachment:
blind down.jpg

Attachment:
blind up.jpg

Attachment:
blind up inside.jpg


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Sun Oct 14, 2018 12:17 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Mallards Only wrote:
Russ wrote:
Russ wrote:
Wow, again.

Dude, your criticisms and air quotes concerning the dude's handicap are quite tunnel visioned. I know plenty of handicap people that are limited on how far they can raise their arms and would never be able to shoot up. I also hunt in quite a few places that shooting behind us isnt possible with a blind there or not so your open top design wouldn't gain me anything. His blind design would be fine in those situations. Regardless of rain gear, having a roof over our heads in the boat or blind is a nice convenience in many cases, and my boat blind has a roof that I can flip back when I dont want it.

I understand you may have figured out the magic blind design, but it's not the only way to do it, and I promise you that others would find flaw in your design for their purposes. Help him out with suggestions if you want, but kicking him in the nuts and telling him he doesnt have a clue is ignorant at best, and pure troll considering he's posted alot of pics and design information to at least attempt to help others figure out what they want to take from it, or leave. Point him to your blind thread if you think it's so great, but you havent bothered to do that yet.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor
Oh, I'll add that not all blind fabrics load up on water weight even though they arent PVC. I've got some canvas from amazon that holds a little water, but at 15ftx5ft it doesnt weigh a ton not does it bend the conduit down with the extra weight. Not sure what your issue with that dude is, but seems quite personal for some reason.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor

And I'll guarantee you that your canvas and whatever camo you added to the outside of it is 10x heavier than what I use now and I can actually see through mine to watch ducks work without sticking my head out of the blind. My blind set-up would be no more limiting for someone who couldn't shoot up than his is so you can bust my balls if you want but I'm not buying that as a legit excuse just because you went to the Clinton school of politically correctedness. I never said he doesn't have a clue. I only questioned the need to overthink and overconstruct these blinds. I'm fully aware that he's likely not going to change his mind or his design at this point because he's pretty proud of it and, in terms of construction, it's a nice blind. My point is that it will prove to be impractical when it comes to hunting. I know from experience and hunting out of several blinds I've made and buddy's blinds. I've made the mistakes!! I'm always looking for ways to improve my blind but would NEVER go back to his concept as it just didn't work for me. Sorry if seems personal to you. I just don't buy excuses or rationale that doesn't hold water.

Attachment:
blind down.jpg

Attachment:
blind up.jpg

Attachment:
blind up inside.jpg





I don't like your blind Mallards... It has nothing to do with anyone being handicapped... Deal with it and move on snowflake...

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 12:32 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
trofazz wrote:
Quote:
You never answered if you used Rancho Safari camo? I like that stuff. I don't really have alot of time to make a proper response, but I'll give it a go....

You actually never asked me what camo I used. You asked Bluesky. As you can see from the pics, I use Fastgrass mostly and add willows, raffia and natural cover from where I'm hunting to break it up even further. I would not use Rancho Safari. I have a Ghillie suit made of their stuff and it weighs a ton when wet.


Quote:
Like I mentioned before, if you are decoying birds and not pass shooting, not much need to shoot overhead. That is your style of hunting, I guess, not mine.... I will typically be tucked up against a river bank or cattails so again, shooting vertical is not needed .... Now if I decided to hunt Saginaw Bay or the like, I may add an adjustment in the blind closer to a V sight window, but I doubt it.


Never done any pass shooting in my life. All my boat hunting is exactly like yours--up against a bank of a river, tucked in at the tail end of an island, or flooded marsh and backwaters. We shoot overhead all the time at decoying birds.



Quote:
I'll have about the same drivability as yours when the blind is up,

Hate to break it to you, but no you won't. Once you have fabric and camo on the back of the blind frame, you will not be able to move your tiller arm.
Quote:
I disagree with the number of people needed to put up the blind, but agree with a longer time frame of assembly to hunt, but that's ok. "Two seconds 'yours' " vs. one-minute' mine' is ok. I can deal with that.... The pivot t's slide on the rail, the fabric is attached with velcro strips, not permanently sewn on to the rail. It will allow the T's to move on the rail by about three feet in either direction. It's hard to explain but I can grab both rails and set them on the catwalk, slide them out, then do the same on the other side, then attach the pins, if I even want to attach the pins. I have found that even with fabric on, the pins are not needed...that could definitely change if wet. I can easily put this up by myself as it sits.

Let us know how that works out after you've used it a season.


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Sun Oct 14, 2018 12:35 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
trofazz wrote:
Mallards Only wrote:
Russ wrote:
Russ wrote:
Wow, again.

Dude, your criticisms and air quotes concerning the dude's handicap are quite tunnel visioned. I know plenty of handicap people that are limited on how far they can raise their arms and would never be able to shoot up. I also hunt in quite a few places that shooting behind us isnt possible with a blind there or not so your open top design wouldn't gain me anything. His blind design would be fine in those situations. Regardless of rain gear, having a roof over our heads in the boat or blind is a nice convenience in many cases, and my boat blind has a roof that I can flip back when I dont want it.

I understand you may have figured out the magic blind design, but it's not the only way to do it, and I promise you that others would find flaw in your design for their purposes. Help him out with suggestions if you want, but kicking him in the nuts and telling him he doesnt have a clue is ignorant at best, and pure troll considering he's posted alot of pics and design information to at least attempt to help others figure out what they want to take from it, or leave. Point him to your blind thread if you think it's so great, but you havent bothered to do that yet.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor
Oh, I'll add that not all blind fabrics load up on water weight even though they arent PVC. I've got some canvas from amazon that holds a little water, but at 15ftx5ft it doesnt weigh a ton not does it bend the conduit down with the extra weight. Not sure what your issue with that dude is, but seems quite personal for some reason.

#CFFITR
#TheGhostBoat
#whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor

And I'll guarantee you that your canvas and whatever camo you added to the outside of it is 10x heavier than what I use now and I can actually see through mine to watch ducks work without sticking my head out of the blind. My blind set-up would be no more limiting for someone who couldn't shoot up than his is so you can bust my balls if you want but I'm not buying that as a legit excuse just because you went to the Clinton school of politically correctedness. I never said he doesn't have a clue. I only questioned the need to overthink and overconstruct these blinds. I'm fully aware that he's likely not going to change his mind or his design at this point because he's pretty proud of it and, in terms of construction, it's a nice blind. My point is that it will prove to be impractical when it comes to hunting. I know from experience and hunting out of several blinds I've made and buddy's blinds. I've made the mistakes!! I'm always looking for ways to improve my blind but would NEVER go back to his concept as it just didn't work for me. Sorry if seems personal to you. I just don't buy excuses or rationale that doesn't hold water.

Attachment:
blind down.jpg

Attachment:
blind up.jpg

Attachment:
blind up inside.jpg





I don't like your blind Mallards... It has nothing to do with anyone being handicapped... Deal with it and move on snowflake...

Oh, BOO HOO. :cry: And to think I was foolish enough to think that you would admit it even if you did. Not to worry--I'm not that stupid. Live and learn. Let us know how it works out for ya--that is if you're man enough to come back on here and admit your errors.

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 12:41 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
I think the blinds posted look good. If y'all have discorse with each other's designs, post pics of what y'all shoot and let the man with more ducks be the winner. Mentioning that you hunt with someone handicap is irreverent since
Most do not.' I hunt with a dog, so my blinds are going to look different than peoples who don't hunt with a dog and don't need a ladder and all for the dog to get into. As long as you are having fun, it fits your needs, and you are killing some birds, it's a success, imo.

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 1:51 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Wchauvin wrote:
I think the blinds posted look good. If y'all have discorse with each other's designs, post pics of what y'all shoot and let the man with more ducks be the winner. Mentioning that you hunt with someone handicap is irreverent since
Most do not.' I hunt with a dog, so my blinds are going to look different than peoples who don't hunt with a dog and don't need a ladder and all for the dog to get into. As long as you are having fun, it fits your needs, and you are killing some birds, it's a success, imo.



That's kind of my approach. Everybody has different styles of hunting and what they want in a blind design. My original intention wasn't to bash on anyone's blind but rather to offer a different version of a blind build. Hell, burlap and grass works, but what works best for your particular situation? Some like the poker style, others a dug out, avery, pop up, etc... Saying one is the better is like saying a brunette is better than a red head, blonde, etc...

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Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:22 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Attachment:
20181012_205116-780x1040.jpg
Some more pics. Nothing ground breaking other than sewing sucks and I'm not good at upholstery. A couple things to keep in mind if you decide to sew a cover. Upholstery threads and cheap sewing machines are not a good match. I finally got things dialed in for sewing, but once I added the Velcro strapping needles started breaking. I went through 3 heavy duty singer needles due to a inadequate machine. I'll be hand sewing the remaining Velcro straps...fun fun. If done again I would either pay an awning company to sew the cover, buy a heavier machine to do it properly, or go with a tarp backing and a grass overlay...


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Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:46 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
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Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:48 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
I got my mother in law to do the sewing over thanksgiving a few years back for my wind and rain blocker. Worth it.


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Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:52 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
It still looks good bro, I think it's going to work well. Hell, covering movement is 90 percent of the battle. Looks like that blind will donthat for sure

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Mon Oct 15, 2018 7:12 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Wchauvin wrote:
It still looks good bro, I think it's going to work well. Hell, covering movement is 90 percent of the battle. Looks like that blind will donthat for sure


Thanks, I'll be adding stubble straps and a little grass or palm frons to help break it up a little. I like the camo but it was more for a wind break than anything. More pics when I get time and possibly a video when it's actually huntable...

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Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:25 am
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Looks good to me. Where are you using it at?


Tue Oct 16, 2018 1:32 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Yeah it's definitely going to help with the wind and make some some comfortable hunts when that cold north wind is puffing

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Tue Oct 16, 2018 1:54 pm
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Post Re: Scissor blind on a 1854 Timber Creek
Wchauvin wrote:
I think the blinds posted look good. If y'all have discorse with each other's designs, post pics of what y'all shoot and let the man with more ducks be the winner. Mentioning that you hunt with someone handicap is irreverent since
Most do not.' I hunt with a dog, so my blinds are going to look different than peoples who don't hunt with a dog and don't need a ladder and all for the dog to get into. As long as you are having fun, it fits your needs, and you are killing some birds, it's a success, imo.

Sounds good. I'll go first.
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Can somebody tell me how to add pics to a post inline rather than as an attachment now that Photobucket is gone?


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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36 PD on 1852 PB


Wed Oct 17, 2018 7:27 am
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