what size motor should i b runin own it . got a 25 gdlt own it right know aint big enough. let"er rip guys yall the pros only had it 1 year still new 2 the game.

35 GDSD

That hull will handle a 35 horse surface drive easy, and probably outrun a lot of other boats. Gonna have a 35 GTR on my 1650 soon.

Not too sure about that setup outrunning alot of boats. I'm running a few mods on my motor and get about 27 or so out if it. Just letting you know what my rig does. It'll run good, but I wouldn't count on it being a speed demon.

i live in tn where is the best place 2 by a surface drive like a 35 go-devil?

They can be shipped economically - or you can pull yer boat
South and have it mounted in about an hour.....

Bart at www.texasbackwater.com can hook ya up....

A few months ago he had some kickin deals on demo motors too....

thanks man about how much am i lookin at? up here in tn final flight say they got a 35 gdsd 4695 aint countin tax id say that sound about right?

I saw a brand new one on e bay for about 5500.

any sugestions before i get a sd all i have run are lt?

Coco told me that boat is fast with a 35SD.

sounds like i should find me a 35gdsd then

Or you could go to one of the other 3 Mud Motor Manufactureres:

PRODRIVE first ever “Shallow Water Outboard
gatortail home of the original belt driven surface drive mudmotor
mudbuddy America's original belt driven shallow water motor

all boys know more than i about them whats the pros and cons with each brand. this should get some comments. lol

this is just my opinion and mine only, the reason i went from outboard to MM is wasnt for speed as i knew i could go places a hell of a lot quicker wit a outboard.....i got a MM cuz it could get me where the outboard couldnt and i could go where i definately shouldnt doesnt matter how fast you get there it just matters that you can get there and get out unlike the outboard......now as far as da brands.....gator tail all da way due to the fact it has neutral and instant reverse.....AGAIN THIS IS MY OPINION ONLY....i have owned a slodrive and gotten rid of it because the manual reverse was an inconvienience to my needs............

aint that big own been fast would like 2 push a loaded down boat better 25 lt aint doin it 4 me.

hell no!! that better 4 u. it takes me so long 2 right own here i forget. 2 . , . , .

just haven fun, first time i been a member of a fourm, tryin 2 remeber 2 classes i had in school. think they called 1 spellin and the ather english aint good at ether. LOL

DMD, you got any ideas for what other tweaking i can do. I've already done some mods, removed all of the water logged foam, moved the fuel tank and the batteries to the front, and added wedges to stop the porposing. Not sure what else I can do.

Here is a cool video of some local action in a 16x56 GD pushed
by a 35 GDSD....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZV8FyHrR59M&feature=fvw




I like knowin that my 16x48 Gd hull will run 30+mph all the way
back to the trailer and that my 35 GDSD won't be standed by
a busted wire to a clutch - a busted switch to a clutch - a busted
electical relay to a clutch - a busted clutch - and that in a bind
my trim is manually controlled with just my hand and that most
of the capability of my motor ain't lost by a busted wire to a trim
motor - a busted switch to a trim motor - a busted relay to a trim
motor - or a busted trim motor.....

All of which leaves me plenty of time to ponder how spend the rest
of the day - cause I ain't workin on it till midnight to go out again
the next day.....

But that's just me....

I agree that these motors are very reliable. Just wish I could get a little more speed out of mine.

add cam, decked heads, push rods and timing key, to mods that you already have done. I have done these plus carb. and exhaust and runnning 33.5 mph with 12 gallons of gas and me. Running 31 with two people and fishing gear and 30 with 4 people, this is on a 16x60 GoDevil hull with GDSD. These extra mods will give you the extra hp you need to gain power and speed. Hoyt from Gatortail recommended these mods to me and I am very satisfied and have over 150 hours on mods with total 360 hours on motor. My boat ran 27.5 light loaded stock when I started this project.

I have a local friend that has the same 1656 boat and a 35GDSD. He is runnin about 27 in stock form. I think you are off on your estimate that boat should be runnin 30. At least from what I have seen first hand.

I agree, put a gps on these boats and most boats will not run 30 mph. Not many boats of any brand run 30 mph in stock condition.

There are different types of performance besides just going
fast in a straight line.... While my tapered chine which is a
flatter bottom will get a bit more speed due to the lift the
tapered hull generates but slides a bit more in the turns at WOT
whereas - the round chine will carve a faster and sharper
turn in a winding bayou.... Ain't no square chine which can
even keep it in sight in a windng bayou....

little late on this thread but my 1656gd w/ 35gdsd is runnin dead on 30 in deep water

I noticed in the picture of your boat that you have the poling platform, have you ran the boat without it? I notice a difference with it and trolling motor and battery installed on my boat. something you might want to try

I've haven't tried running it without the poling platform since i put it on over a year ago. I never really thought that it would make a big difference.

should be six bolts and ten minutes. you might be surprised

I have the opportunity to buy one of these boats at a good price. It's a 2004 with poling platform, extended front deck, and seat bases installed. I might go look at it tomorrow. What should I look for. I know these boats have foam in them. How easy is it to get out? Plan on making a few interior changes to the boat down the road. Maybe add a hunt deck and remove the rear side foam boxes. Is this something that is reasonably doable with this hull? I wanted to build a hull to my liking, but this is a great deal and will be hard to pass up.

Nathan

there great boats main thing is check the bottom out good. make sure it aint beat in . yea u aint gona hurt it by takin out the foam if u wanted, and wouldnt be hard to do at all.

Nathan,

Floor foam will be wet and need replacement at about 3 years... If you just
take it out and don't put anything back the floor will be soft and your bottom
more likely to take dents - the factory foam kinda stiffens them both because it is
sized to be a tight fit....

Kit from Go Devil is under 100.00 with new foam and rivets --- the nose and
pod foam "usually" stays good for much longer unless you fill the boat with
water --- which some do before a hurricane to keep them heavy here on the coast....

The metal that the rear foam pods are inside of is semi-structural and the mfg
does not recommend their removal... Never heard of anyone adding a hunt deck
to this - or any GD hull - but if anyone could it might be Uncle J - he pretty crafty...

If you can buy that hull under 3000 - grab it ! ! !

Got the hull and a galvanized trailer for 3000. It needs some work, but don't mind a fixer upper. The actual hull is in great shape. A few minor scratches in the paint on the bottom and that is it. No dents at all. It has been sitting outside in the sun and rain without a cover since new so the foam in the floor is very suspect and the paint is faded pretty badly. I plan on pulling the floor up and replacing the foam. Foam in the bow appears to be dry looking at the drain holes under the deck. Problem is they poured too much in during the construction of the boat. The expansion of the foam made the top of the foam pod in the front bow up a little. Of course that makes it so the front deck isn't level. I'll probably cut it open eventually to remedy this problem and to add more storage, unless someone has another idea to fix it. Still think I'll remove the foam pods in the rear sides in the future. I'll add a seat on either side in the rear to add some structure back. First on the fix list is the trailer. New bunks and packing the bearings are needed. Second is flip the boat over and steel flex the bottom. Third is to paint the outside using Parker Coatings marsh grass duck boat paint. I'll paint the inside after I get my modifications done after duck season this year. Fourth and final thing before duck season starts this year is rewire the navigation lights and bilge pump. Should be pretty easy to get this stuff done in the three months or so before phase one down here in Florida. I'll post some before pictures soon and then some more as this project progresses.

Nathan

Congrats on the new rig! That thing is a tank. I opened up my bow and removed all the foam. Now my dual batteries and battery charger are mounted up there. Really gave me some more room in the boat. PM me if there is anything I can do to help.