I notice this is a recurring theme with aluminum boats. No way to avoid dents unless one builds a tank. But if you want to bring your bottom back to flat and smooth I have a solution to share. It involves creative use of epoxy and wax paper. I've floated many a sheet of plyywood with epoxy prior to installation resulting in a perfectly coated surfaace with excellent strength properties. Here's the process. Rough sand your bottom to etch it. Level your bottom so it is flat in all planes. The next step will create a basin into which you will pour Pre mixed two part epoxy. Border the edges of your bottom with a lip about 1" in depth and line the border with wax paper so that the inside of the border's edge is sheathed by the wax paper. Poor epoxy to fill the basin till you have the thickness you desire. The epoxy will self level and you will end up with a very flat and strong bottom coating after deconstructing the border pieces. The wax paper keeps the epoxy from sticking to your border.

Its gonna bust loose after you go back to hitting stumps.

Would peel like a banana. The epoxy absorbs into wood for its strength and holding ability. Aluminum prolly not so much. Why not just attach a piece of plywood with screws to the bottom of the boat then epoxy, if you just have to make I wood boat project. Replace the wood every 3000 miles..

There are special epoxy (West System) coatings that are very strong and flexible, not brittle at all. The coating will absorb and flex upon impact...won't shatter like you might be thinking. Considering that the alternative is to smooth the bottom like one might with epoxy filler then coat it, or bang it out like you would now, I think this is a viable solution. I really don't think one would have to worry about decoupling from the Aluminum surface upon impact, high speeds or wear if properly prep'd. This is what I plan to do to my boat while waiting for this flood to end. Got plenty of time on my hands now...can't fish, can't go to camp, no place to get drunk, etc.

Or......Just get a 3/16 hull to start with...

I'm curious how well the quick steel type filler works? You can get it at home depot.

I don't know about needing a border, when it levels across the bottom of the boat, and the whole surface is wet, the dents should be filled. I wouldn't think you'd want to pour it so thick you need a trough to contain it. You are describing decoupaging your hull, but isn't that basically what people already do with steelflex and such?

Thats how I apply steel flex but without the border. That is a 2 part epoxy that fills dents by itself and self levels. Long as the aluminum is prepped good you dont have anything to worry about.

A thickened epoxy mix will be very heavy. Applied correctly it will b very durable. A 3/16" bottom on any boat running stumps is the only good fix, and it won't b heavy as a tank.

hooks in boats sux, they are a night mare. Had to sell a boat just for that reason, hook was under the seat, bench seat

3/16 will hook just like 1/8.....it just takes a few hours longer.

Aluminum is going give some way or another. nothing will stop it.....it only prolongs the process.

Wood won't "hook"!

It was a 3 Hour Tour!

Wooden bottom sheathed in epoxy impregnated fiberglass cloth will flex and return. If impact is pointed and forceful enough to hole, the wood will still return and almost completely self seal. If a big hole you can stuff with life jacket and draw enough water out with bilge to get back to landing. Any impact that will hole a wooden boat like mine would put a big assed dent in a 3/16 and probably hole thinner aluminum, too.