Just got a 6' box built for my boat and got rid of the 2 smaller box seats. Instead of putting the battery inside a box seat like last time, and running wires under the floor, I'm thinking about just putting it in the back corner in a battery box. I'll need to run the nav lights, bilge pump and at least one cigarette plug.

Anybody got any photos of their wiring job I can go off of or ideas on a clean install. What kind of control panel can I install near the battery or on the plastic box itself?

I'm really wanting to leave the new box alone and not cut any holes in it. I want it to all be for dry storage.

I did not have any place for a panel in my old rig either. Instead, I used the Cole Hersee sealed switches and inline waterproof fuse holders and installed everything in an oversized group 31 battery box. I installed the switches in the lid and blocked the battery to one end to make room for the fuses and wiring.

No one (that I'm aware of) makes a box that has switches in it, so you will have to make some sort of pannel or box that bolts onto the boat (or have someone weld into the boat). Have you thought about what you want to put in the back of the boat for the switches to attach to? And do weld or know a welder that coule make something?


As far as switches go, I am a fan of using rocker (not toggle) switches because the are much more water resistant. I also prefer to put breakers (not fuses) as they are more water resistant and you dont have to carry spare fuses in the boat. There are a bunch of companies that offer pre-made switch pannels that you can simply mount in the boat, but again you will need a pannel or box to attach them to.

My dealer can weld. Just want to make sure it's my best option before I get going.

Also like the idea of the large battery box, as I might already have one at the house.

Cabelas sells one with the external power connections and 2 cigaretter plugs. $29.

I have a 4 switch control panel with fuses already.

Just put the box in this morning so I need to let it sink in and consider all options.

Well then I would have your welder make a box to put the pannel in somewhere on the transom and/or near the battery.

And yea, your battery should go into a battery box, but I am not a fan of those ones with the switches and sockets in em. They dont seem to last.

I finally found an old photo. It isn't the best shot, but you can see the switches installed in the battery box lid. There is no bus bar or panel. Everything is direct wired to the battery and fused. It is more AE than ABYC, but it has worked for over 20 years in both fresh and salt water.

Here's the issue I see with having the switches and wiring on the battery box. It's not a good idea to have your eletrical connections in an inclosed area with battery gasses. Corrosion to the eletrical connections would potentially occur over time. It's better to limit you wiring inside the box to just the possitive and negative cables going to the battery and have all other connections remote. Just something to think about,

Russ

I put a rubber boot on my toggles and mount them through the front of the corner brace going from the gunwale to the transom. I have a 7 conductor wire, used for gooseneck trailers, run the length of the boat from bow, to switches then, battery box. I cut the outer insulation and tie my switches in-line. At the battery box I tie my hots into the fuse block and grounds straight to the battery. There is a common hot from the battery to fuse block. I like the 7 conductor because of a clean look and plenty of wires. Everything has it's own hot and ground but I can use some as a common ground if I need more power wires.

This is what I ended up doing.

Auto bilge
Manual bilge
Nav lights

Gonna install a cigarette plug in the side of the box next.