I'm trying to get this old prop off and get my new prop on. Iv'e used half a can of WD40 with no luck. I tried heating in moderation with no luck. I've backed off the net closest to the seal housing thinking that may help but not so. My next idea is to use a pipe wrench on the blades. Any other ideas or trucks that have worked for you? Thanks.


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36" pipe wrench open facing the prop. Jam up the shaft so it won't turn and then pull on it. Don't bounce or hit it. Just a steady hard pull and it should come loose.

Use a pipe wrench on the hub, as it can grab it without being on the blades. Put a crescent on the nut on the nut so it'll hold the shaft. May need a couple cheater pipes to get enough leverage.

Thanks for the replies. I have rebar wedged in the u joint so it won't spin.


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WD-40 isn't what you need. Get some penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench, Knock'er Loose or what I like is PB Blaster. Soak it down early and often.

Use a long 2 x 4 with a hole drilled through it to fit over your shaft. Slide the 2 x 4 between your blade flukes and give it a spin. 5' to 6' board gives you a lot of leverage.

Good luck.


Most liberals seem to suffer from the same mental condition....it's called stupidity!

Oh....and Marine Grade Never Seize when you put it back on!


Most liberals seem to suffer from the same mental condition....it's called stupidity!

Fucking Junk

I made a 4' prop wrench out of 1.25"x1.25" square steel tubing (3/16" wall thickness) and couldn't get mine to budge.. and that was with Liquid Wrench (over a 2 wk period). Tried a torch as well. Ending up having to cut the prop off (needed replacement anyway).

Thanks for the 2x4 idea and PB blaster I'll give that a try. As for marine grade anti seize, do auto stores carry that?

Yep.

I use an 18" pipe wrench with alot of elbow grease, it can sometimes be tricky to get the pipe wrench latched on there well. If your motor is on a boat strapping your tiller down to the floor of the boat also helps stabilize. Be careful using to much heat you'll ruin your seals. It will feel like its stuck and is not going to budge then it'll pop lose just got muscle it up real good.

The copper based is good for certain high heat applications. I personally don't use it on my engine. I use nickel based on engine components. I'd say why, but, I'm sure it would hijack the thread with a whole other debate.


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Soak it with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Better penetrant than anything you can buy off of the shelf.

Brake fluid and oil mix will do wonders give it 2-3 days

Well low and behold the shaft had a crack in it... Prop is still on but shaft is junk at this point.

Better to find it now than to figure it out when your new prop is on the bottom of the river and you're calling SOS to a buddy

That's what I told my self when I gave my card number to get a new shaft

What do you guy's use to stop the shaft from turning when trying to remove the prop?

Stick a piece of round bar through the u-joint

Did you get that prop off yet? If you haven't, you may have to pull the shaft (if possible with the prop on) and put it in a vice. My brother's longtail prop was a SOB to get off . He ended up building a tool that slipped over the hub and between the blades to get enough torque on the prop to break it loose. But that doesnt answer how to keep the shaft from turning...sorry, not much help there.

I always used a old lawnmower blade an a cheater pipe of the 6' kind... an I put a stainless rod into the hole in the clutch where the shaft leaves the bottom of motor (prodrive)...
An always use never sieze, I keep mine in my boat along with the company issued 33, and tiewraps!

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I bent my drive shaft on a 35 swomp ls. Pulled the shaft put into a vice and could not break the prop free. Talked to Jake from backwater and he sent me a video of cutting the jam nut with a angle grinder. Right before you get to the threads take a chisel to the nut and break it lose. Prop spun right off. Be careful not to damage the threads on the shaft if you plan on reusing it.