So we were coming in from a hunt on Sunday and the belt broke. Not sure what happened. Motor has 39 hours on. Belt tension was checked at 15 hours and then again before season started (had around 30 hours at that time). Everything was within specs there. Attached a picture of the belt.

Regardless, Chad had one at his shop (Another reason why I'm happy with prodigy and why I recommend them) and is sending to me. I've done some research and found a couple of useful posts form mudbuddy forum and bps forum and I think I have everything I need to get lower unit off to replace belt and back together in one piece. Just wanted to get a little more guidance on this and make sure that I have everything (torque specs, right steps).

What do you guys think of these steps? Does something need to be modified?

6) Apply a 1/8 inch bead of Sealant (Either CarQuest Sensor Safe Supreme Black Gasketing Silicone (CCM26886) or Permatex Ultra Black Hi Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker) to lower outdrive housing (not the casing). Be sure to apply around the bolt holes. Apply Blue Loctite to the bolts for the lower housing. If you are using the spaghetti gasket on the newer drives, put it in place in the groove in the outdrive housing. Cut it to length with the connection at the top of the housing. You can use a few dots of silicone sealant to hold it in place.
7) Put the outdrive up in place, making sure to mesh the gear with the belt properly and get the 5 bolts holding the outdrive started by hand, but do not tighten them yet. Loosen the bolt holding the outdrive casing up so the outdrive slides and you put tension back on the belt then retighten the top bolt. Reach in and grasp the belt and squeeze it together, thus raising the lower outdrive about 1/16" in the bolt holes. Now tighten the outdrive bolts down and torque to 130 inch pounds. (The new sealer may squish out onto the outside of your drive. It's easier to remove it after it has dried.)
8) Next you will have to adjust your belt tension. Loosen the top bolt on the inside of the casing and remove the center vent plug on the side of the outdrive casing. Take your drive out of travel lock, trim the drive level and turn it to access the belt tension adjusting bolt on the back of the sid of the outdrive casing. Begin adding tension on the belt by tightening the belt tension adjuster using two 9/16 wrenches. Move the rubber o-rings on the tension gauge to zero. Insert the tension gauge in the side hole against the belt with the black rubber end out. Turn the barrel of the gauge so the 'Inches' side is shown and with the gauge just touching the belt, make a note where the barrel is even with the outdrive. Then move the o-ring on the outside barrel to 1/4" past the reading where its even with the outdrive to mark how far you will deflect the belt to get your tension reading. Push the gauge against the belt for 1/4" deflection (as read on the side of the gauge). Release the tension and read where the o-ring on the tension scale marks the pressure required to deflect the belt. A used belt should be tensioned no more than 16 lbs at 1/4" deflection.Turn the belt tension adjustment bolt to add tension as required, 1/2 turn on the bolt will increase the belt tension about 2 pounds.
9) Once the tension is set, tighten all the bolts on the outdrive casing and the lock nuts on the belt tension tensioning bolt. The two 1/2"head bolts under the belt will require switching an open end around several times. It is slow going but needs to be tight. A 1/2" crows foot wrench makes it easier to get those bolts.
10) Put a 3/8 bead of silicone on the area between the lower unit and clutch cover case and a bead all the way around the face of the outdrive casing if spaghetti gasket is not used. Re-install the clutch cover using blue loctite on all the cover bolts.
11) Go drive it like you stole it.

holy shit - I faked a siezure half way thru reading this, just so I could stop reading.

Why do the steps start at 6 again?

It's really pretty simple to pull the outdrive and replace the belt. Youll def. Need a crows foot wrench head. It basically pulling bolts from the outdrive and putting it back together. Once you get to working on it youll see everything that needs to be do e. Sometimes the directions are more confusing than the actual job itself! There's also a video on MB and YouTube show exactly what to do in order.

[quote="Smoke"] Youll def. Need a crows foot wrench head. /quote]

^^^ X2 on the crows foot wrench, it could be dun with out one, but there would be lots of swearing going on. If you do not have them go out and buy some before you start. You can never have enough tools in your box

It's not bad. Getting the belt gauge to work is the hardest part check it like 4-5 times.

Just found a great video from gator trax's youtube channel. Added the links on here for future reference in case any one needs them. This is much simpler to understand and follow. Added the video on the clutch removal just for good measure.

Part 1- Lower Unit Removal
http://youtu.be/_jPDEVXcDvY?list=PL1av5 ... Fr942sm5e-

Part 2- Clutch Removal
http://youtu.be/FTCvlC8AO6U?list=PL1av5 ... Fr942sm5e-

Reassembly
http://youtu.be/V_2T8Ta6IrQ?list=PL1av5 ... Fr942sm5e-