Anybody running this Courville prop on a Pro Drive. Working with Nick Peltier on a build- heads, cam, hex shaft and a tune on PD 40 EFI. I was going to go with the Fat Blade or Hammer and have Baggy work it. The turn around time was longer than I wanted(middle of duck season) and Nick had access to a worked Reaper. Said one of his buddies was really impressed with it, but he hasn’t had a chance to test it yet. Looking for feedback.

How about running this prop on any motor? Lol

Chris has done some great work on my props in the past, so I bet it's a good one. Whether or not it's right for your motor will depend on pitch/cup of that particular one and your mods. No way to know until you bolt it on and give it gas

#CFFITR
#GhostBoat
#Whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor

Agreed- it’s been worked to a 12.5 pitch and some added cup. I think as per Nicks recommendation. Here’s a pic.

I own a Prodrive and don't understand why in the hell anyone would waste the time and money changing to a hex shaft to waste more time and money trying to make a prop work that was never intended for a Prodrive to gain a piss of top speed. It's a different animal. Made for the true hunter/fisherman and not even close to a race boat nor do the folks that build them care about being fast. Its made to tote the mail and get the job done. To each their own. Could also be wasting money on pussy in a whore house that's lasts for 10 minutes too I guess.

Not building it for speed but for load. When you have 4 guys and 6 dozen decoys going up river...and your running 16mph with no chance to dig out of anything- you want the right prop. Pro drives props are fine- but I did this to my last motor with a worked fat blade- night and day.

Horsepower is what you need not a prop. I've had 7 grown ass men in my old 1754 and ran 26mph on a stock prop.

I could barely plane out with 5 guys and a stock prop after adding hp. Boat wouldn't really lift out of the hole. Prop worked, could then plane easily and run very shallow. The prop isnt the end all, but its definitely a piece of the puzzle.

He's adding hp. He needs something to shove the water. Pitch isnt really a biggie, but cup and rake sure are.

#CFFITR
#GhostBoat
#Whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor

Get all your motor work done before you get your prop work done too. Don’t get a prop worked, do some engine work, then have to get it reworked, because then you are spending money for nothing. Get your mods done, then once that’s all finished, then get your prop work done so it’s dialed in for your needs and your build

Nick knows his stuff for sure man. He does very good work.

I guess Ill put up a review on this prop compared to a worked Hammer.

We do a lot of props for him at baggys

He is a real good dude

I see good and bad. Get the motor to do what it will. My comments were based on I can vary 800# +/- easy. Stock prop on PD is the most consistent. However, I haven't seen a "worked" prop pay for itself to gain 1-3 mph top end... I can get the same job done with a built motor and a stock prop as I can with a prop that's $125 more for not enough difference to matter on getting to that same spot.

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I run a fully built engine that was set up to mainly haul heavy loads. While it may not be a speed demon I have no problem stepping 1,500-2,000 lbs. This of course is with a worked prop that was customized for my specific setup. That being said I have attempted to run it with a stock prop and while I still reached my destination, it took a lot longer to get there.
A stock prop without having cup added to it takes much longer to get on step (if it even will) than a worked prop with the same load
After spending $3,000 to build my motor to my needs, it seems to me that $125 is a drop in the bucket to be able to achieve the full potential out of my build.

IMO- the prop is the best value for real MPH gains. A Mikuni carb is close to a 900 bucks for 1-2 mph- my experience. A worked prop for 125 extra matched to your build can be 2-4MPH under load- my experience.

^ I agree completely

^ I agree completely

The real question is: Do you agree? And the follow-up: How much do you agree?

#CFFITR
#GhostBoat
#Whoneedsphysicsihaveamudmotor

I think I answered that twice above, bud

Finally got the new hex shaft in with a Baggy worked Hammer prop. This was built for load and jumping up on plane quickly to get out of holes out in the marsh with a load. I can tell you I was not disappointed! I think the prop still needs a little more cup or pitch up to Baggy- not sure- because I was still running around 4800 at best speeds. I would like this closer to 4650.

BUT, if you pin the throttle it pops out of the water in less than a boat length and then pulls hard straight to 30MPH- I actually had to brace my back leg when the torque was peaking from about 12mph to 25 mph while standing up. I ran up current and down current, there was no difference in speed in deep water. I topped out about 31 mph. Not the fastest for sure, but the low end torque was incredible. Night and day difference from the PD prop. I had a fairly light load fro me, two tanks of 5 gallon gas, two deep cycle batteries, Center Console, Fish Deck, Gun Box, Battery Charger, 2 Yeti Storage Box's (tools and crap), some fast grass in the bow etc and my 80lb lab.

Difference from PD prop- 1-2 MPH and more torque and low end than I have ever felt in a mud boat. I may have a mercury three blade worked for fishing and speed.

If that is your best speed when light I would try it with a load before having anything changed on the prop. If you have it changed it might not perform well with a heavy load due to having too much pitch or cup.

Nothing against worked prop, but on the river I run which is mostly sand bottom, I can't seem to get the life out of a worked prop, when compared with a stock prop. My guess is the heat used to rework the blade edges takes the temper out of them. They seem to chip easier and wear down faster. In deep water like on the Mississippi in mud and weeds they run great and last along time. IMO

I wouldn’t change anything with that prop if you are coming out the hole like that. That is what you want for a hunting and load carrying wheel.
If you want a speed wheel, get that 3 blade dialed in for that purpose and for light loads. I have a 2 blade for my heavy load and hunting wheel and I have a 3 blade for speed.

As far as the heat thing, that has nothing to do with changing anything with the metal. The reason a worked prop will not last as long as a stock prop is because the thickness of a worked prop is much more reduced than a stock prop because it is sharpened and balanced after the pitch/cup work is done.

Yeah I do bro. No I wouldn’t, because once you put weight in the boat, you want to have those rpms so you can push that load and step a load. Get your 3 blade higher pitched for speed but leave that 2 blade like it is for your hunt wheel.

No problem bro

U guys know the gen 4 PD’s have a 1” hex shaft now.

Baggy can do anything you want with your prop bro. I wouldn’t go with anything more than an inch of pitch on a 3 blade unless you have some majorly staged ho motor that runs in the 40s. I like to have a worked 2 blade for my hunting wheel and large loads wheel and I like a 3 blade for lighter loads and for my fishing needs.

Just wondering if Baggy did that work for Prodigy- and if that would be a good option. Agree on the 2 blade for hunting and 3 for speed/ fishing. Just curious if you, or anybody has any experience with the Worked Mercury prop Prodigy is selling. Thx man.