So I am excited about getting the new motor, zeroed in on the SS 59" BW 26.5 HP EFI, going on my blue-collar grizzly 1648- so Jake, who was very helpful, suggested the versa mount inboard style to get the most out of it...any experiences with this type of setup? Jake also said if it does not work inboard/outboard I could swap out with the clamp on style at no cost. Thank you BW!! I will give a full report, God willing, later this month after the maiden voyage. A duck boat just does not look right without a motor on it!

Just curious. What did Jake tell you about the versa mount?


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I was a little puzzled, thinking the versa was only for the smaller HP motors, not so, they have one for the bigger block (up to 35). He thinks because of my hull's configuration, inboard mount would afford a better angle for the prop. Like I said, I will try this and if it is not optimum will do it outboard...and if neither works get the clamp on. Nice to have these several options and adjustments for dialing the motor in....

Frank, Stu, or anyone with a BW, how many shims, if any, did you use under the cavitation plate to run level? I forgot to ask Jake how many come with the motor? There are no revealing pics on the BW site to determine just how the shim is secured by the plate. Did the motor come with hardware, such as bolts for the transom? I forgot to add the tiny tach to the order!
I think I will start with the versa mount in the outboard position first; this was how the 04 MB 27 LT kind of was and I had to play with the "trim tab" on the trailing edge of the cavitation plate; of course the tracer on the BW is quite different!

Glades, your motor should come with two shims plus the hardware. I run two shims on mine. Most people I talk to use one. My motor did not come with transom bolts. Watch the glider kit video on Backwaters website for the cav plate info.


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The shims and cavitation plate bolts are included in the purchase. I haven't had to run any shims. And I run the original clamp on transom mount.

Thank you, Frank! I think part of the reason Jake suggested the versa mount is the fact I leave the longtail motor on my hull year round. My 1648 is similar to yours, which type of mounting do you suppose is better, inboard or outboard? I am guessing outboard because I am getting the 59" drive, which should put it closer to the hull and away from "whitewater". Only testing will tell, on all three of my previous longtails I have achieved a balanced position so that I can push down on the tiller and the motor will stay forward and the prop remain out of the water and not creep back. Thanks again, Stu, for mentioning the BW video on shimmying and prop removal.

No problem Glades


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Glades, It took me a long time to get mine dialed in but i have a bigger boat than most running a longtail I started with no shim and went small increments at a time, long story short. I called Arlon and he said break them in half and stack them on top of one another he said if the plate touches the shaft it won't hurt a thing. Well he was right, I ended up breaking both shims in half and stacking them up fixed my problem which was keeping the prop in the water. The cav plate has a minor slot in the bolt holes for me that even made a difference but know the 37 runs smooth as glass on slick water all I have to do is hold the throttle.

Good to hear, T Shot! I was eyeing that 37 but just could not swing the funds...hopefully, I may not need to shim, I am starting with the 9x7 prop, with my old 27 MB the 9x6 gave me better results. I went ahead and got the tiny tach ordered. With my carbed 27 Kohler anything less than 1200 rpms and it ran rough, I understand that the EFI runs smoother at lower rpms. What is your top rpms in the water under load?? Jake did say to use conventional good oil (10w-30) for the initial break-in and secondary change, and thereafter I could use synthetic if I wanted.
Wish I had a motor lift- will have to call my nephew to assist me hoisting the motor onto the transom. As far as I can see, the sole connection is the transverse bolt through both the motor and transom eye brackets. I will start with the middle hole!

Glades. You'll probably have to do a little tweaking when you first run this motor. Bring a tool box and some help. Give me a shout and I'll come down and ride chase boat.


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Excellent! There's still a bunch of water. I mostly want to fish, but if there is water I detour to the marsh and re-visit the potholes and I'd love to see a mottled duck or two, they were a disappearing act this past season...how many days till teal season?

Glades my motor runs in water under load at idle 850 and wot 4400

Hawilson I don't have a way to post pics but the shims have ridges just break them and stack them on top one another where they will line up at the bolt holes, it is pretty easy just look at bolts because there different lengths .

Ok, I know at 850 rpms my old motor would almost conk out...
Hawilson, are the plugs the equivalent of the RC12YC? (that was the recommended plug of the carbed 27 HP) I looked at the Kohler website and the gap appears to be the same at .030.

Yes, same plug, gapped 0.03 in and torqued 20 ft-lbs.

So are the shim pieces, once broken, stacked 4 high or only the two thickest pieces used?

On mine they are stacked 4 high. The cav plate runs just under the surface maybe a 1/2" if I adjust it where it is out of water but just the edges like it needs to be I loose speed and prop blows out of water a lot but every boat is different .

Thanks for the insights, excited about joining the BW "flock"! Anybody else using a versa mount on their 23 lite, 23, 35/37 BW?? The only thing missing is a motor lift. Groan.

My new BW 26.5 EFI motor is home! If I am lucky, I will get to test drive it this weekend! It's like Christmas in May! The versa mount is really stout. Comes with a template/brace. My initial fit prior to drilling tells me that Jake is right about "inboard" mounting, that means the 59" drive will be shortened even more. Anybody out there have a similar mount or a BW motor on a 1648 grizzly?? Mine is an '04 model, fairly flat in the back. Came with ss bolts and nylock nuts. According to the video the template can and should be used as reinforcement on one side of the transom. Does it matter which way (head of bolt out or in) the bolts are placed?? The template has four holes; the mount itself has slots for the bolts. Any suggestions or recommendations are welcome big time
!!
The crate is superior to my last two motors that were shipped (GD and MB). I still have not had a chance to look at the throttle linkage setup, and that is not described in the manual from BW or Kohler so I am sure to have some questions!

Glades. , I only used the top two drill thru template holes , mostly rekeying on the tourqe down bolts on the transom . I sandwiched an additional aluminum strip to inside . I also ditched the stock lawnmower junk throttle, get a bps throttle and put a return spring on the back of your carb linkage for return pressure and roll out . Your going to love that Frame. Good luck

H Finn

Thanks, Huck! I have the versa mount, not the clamp on type...so I have to drill, my previous MB transom plate holes are offset. So I will use all four bolts and the template/brace will be on the outside of the transom. Should the bolts be end or head out? There are washers for both sides supplied. The way the mount came assembled I don't think I have to change the angle, fits my transom angle (16 degrees??) If the initial test inboard style does not perform well I will reverse to outboard style; if neither works I will request a standard clamp on transom mount. On the BW versa mount video on their website, Larry discusses the disturbed water that comes from most ribbed (not flat) hull center bottoms and the lift it creates plus the rear corner water that creates "whitewater" at their junction when they come together behind the boat. Do you think that by shortening the 59" drive by inboard transom mounting, I will lose any significant speed? I guess only trial/error will tell, just hoping somebody else has done this? I feel like the first guinea pig on the block.

Congrats Glades, looking forward to the test ride report.


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Yeah, Stu, beautiful frame and design! The versa mount is heavy and well machined, with a couple of adjustment points...water's been scarce good to see rain yesterday and again today, amazing a small cold front coming now in May! When I drove your rig, I was really impressed with the reduced vibration and ease of handling, even though your 35 is heavier. If I had extra money to invest, it would be in BW! Their refinements and improvements will ensure the longtail platform for years to come! I know the carb problems can be fixed, but looking forwared to EFI for both the efficiency and savings!

I'm mounting my motor this weekend. Painting boat now. I got the 23.5 light with versa mount. I'm putting the template on the inside with all 4 bolts. One thing i had to do was loosen the big nut in the center under the versa mount. It would not twist at all but a very slight turn on the nut and she turned just fine. Jake said sometimes they over tighten them when they are put together. I'll also decide on the throttle lever...keep or replace. Jake thru in a motor cover but I'm set on painting that motor to match my boat.

I noticed the same thing on mine, will loosen that also so it can turn. I like the friction lever myself, "set it and forget it", and then I can use my whole hand to grip the steering handle. Never painted any motor, use a cordura-type camo material (found a M.O. Bottomland piece at a garage sale) and drape the motor after it cools down.
longboman, please give us a report on your motor! I plan to do the same!

Questions keep popping up...since I am mounting the versa mount "inboard style", which way should the top plate be oriented?? There is a small slot on one edge for the travel lock/pin, and the grease fitting will also be oriented either forward or back. I did email Jake, and am awaiting an answer. Just wondering if anyone out there knew! This is not explained on their video. I understand and will go ahead and intall the versa mount, but sure want the top plate correct when I hoist the motor and slide in the cross bolt!

The same side of the versa mount will be touching the transom no matter if its inside or outside. In other words if you can't reach into the versa mount and pull the black round knob its not on right.

Yeah, I kept looking at the mount and finally realized that, thanks. Obviously if I turn the top plate around I won't be able to steer because the stop pin will prevent that. A full turn on the center nut freed up the plate. Getting help to day to hoist the motor up. Applied grease to the bolt hole, going to use the center hole first and try it out! Have to get oil and a new battery. I was skeptical about the mount, but it snugged up fine with the four bolts.

Post some pics when you get it mounted.


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Stu, I messaged you some pics, just waiting now for my nephew to do the big lift! What I am not sure about is the Tiny Tach 2A. It is adjustable with a default setting of 360 degrees= 1 spark per revolution but the degree range is from 45-720, but nowhere in the Kohler literature does it say what the 26.5 HP motor sparks/revolution are! But the is the least of my worries; hoping I can try the motor today; bought oil and a battery.

Can't help with the tach but I'm sure someone on here can. Great day for a test ride. Have fun.


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motor is on. I even got most of the boat rigged out over the weekend. Gotta hook up all the positive on the wiring. A few tidbit things to finish it up. Should be ready for a test run this next coming weekend.

I had the Versa Mount on my 23hp engine. I love it. I originally mounted it in board, but it put the motor too far into the boat. Turned it around outboard style and had no problems what-so-ever. I did not use any shims either, worked great without them. Good luck!

My tach is set to 720. Backwater sells 2 one for efi and another for carb. Not sure what the difference is besides $10. I bought the efi tach from backwater and it is set at 720.

hawilson, Jake confirmed the 720 degree setting for the 26.5 efi. I was getting 1100 rpm at idle and c. 3600 top end but briefly because of the prop blowout.

Hawilson, I plan to change the oil on the motor after this upcoming weekend's second run, which should rack up about 3.5 hours total...getting harder to find an oil filter, Kohler or otherwise, Home Depot used to have the Kohler but not anymore, I found a Bosch 3330 equivalent at WM, a little more expensive but don't want to skimp with an oil filter. I noticed the plug bolt is 11/16" and there is one on both sides of motor- does it really matter which side to use? Is filter side better? The good thing is the gap right on the frame so the oil should pour out with less mess there, unlike my previous GD and MB that used to partly drop onto the motor plate. I read somewhere back that you should fill the new oil filter up to the threads with new oil. Anybody else do this? Can't hurt I guess. After fillilng I believe the 26.5 motor has 1.7 quarts capacity and not 1.9/2.0 quarts.
I started with conventional Castrol 10w-30 and will continue for the next couple of changes with this and then maybe switch to synthetic. Any comments on this?

I do not think that it matters which side you drain the oil from. Never heard of filling the filter up with oil before putting it back on. Guess it can't hurt. I've been using synthetic mobile one 10W-30 from the beginning. Good luck with everything and keep us posted.

You can use a Fram oil filter for a Toyota Tacoma 2007, same size, same thread.
P.B.

I've been using purolator. Here are some cross references I found.

Kohler 5205002s
Napa gold 7000
WIX 57000
Purolator L10241