Have a 2006 h3 adventure w/ 180,xxx miles. I had a check engine light on and before I could get it checked the transmission took a dump. Lost 3-4 so I got it rebuilt. This is the kickoff of my recent adventure..lol. So got it back and it would barely run so to the mechanic we go. Oxygen sensor, crankshaft sensor, and camshaft actuator replaced. They changed the oil and said it was very dirty and a bit low. I had gone over my change mileage but not by much. Anyhow they said there was metal in the oil. Then basically said they couldn't fix it. It starts and runs great when cold, no banging or knocking. Even when at operating temp going down the road it runs great. But the bastard will not idle when it warms up. It'll drop rpms and then fall on its face. He told me there wasn't enough oil pressure to operate the actuator and that causes it to die. Then pretty much said the motor was junk... even tho there are no noises, banging etc. It just won't idle at operating temps. I sure don't want to spring for a new motor. I'm going to try to get a second opinion next week. I'm 1800 in the hole at this moment and still have a ride that's broke. No check engine light or codes at all. I don't see why the oil light would not come on and pop a code if there is no oil pressure. Other articles I've read pertaining to a pressure issue say they got a check engine light and low pressure light.

Also the h3 had set up about a yr before I bought it. The lady that had it was a traveling nurse. Gas got high so she parked it and bought another ride. Engine is a gm 3.5


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As far as metal in the oil,, its possible that the cam journals are hurt some and making metal. This would drop oil pressure without making noise. You wil find that motor with that miles does burn a little oil and might have got starved once upon a time. These heads can give you problems too. Back to the basics. T in a mechanical gauge to verify oil pressure problem. If good then clean the throttle body by hand with solvent on a rag, dont spray into the throttle body. This will let a little more air flow at idle. A plugged pcv, bad torque converter
or a weak battery can also cause them to stall at idle. maybe you will get lucky and it be something easy. Good luck

Odd that you mention the battery. I went to get something out of it before work and the battery was dead as a hammer. I started to clean the maf sensor and tb yesterday but thought surely the shop had checked that butalso figured that if the tb was nasty that it would present itself all of the time (the idle issue occurs when it's warmed. Runs like a champ when cold). I'll check that battery in the morning when I get home. The wife drives an h3 too so I'll rob her battery to check it..lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Them warmer it gets the lower rpm is commanded to

Say what?[GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's usually better to replace a mass airflow sensor rather than clean it unless you have the means to do it properly. Those tiny metering wires are easily damaged and don't like carb/brake cleaner hitting them. It can leave a residue and make them read improperly. At a minimum use mass airflow cleaner as it has a higher alcohol content and will not leave behind a residue when it dries.

How soon after the transmission repair did you start having these issues?

Id start with a manual oil pressure test and a fresh battery. Verify all your grounds are in good shape as well. They will cause some screwed stuff, and visually check over any wiring around the bell housing. It's easy to pinch something when putting the trans back in. Those problems would likely throw codes but it never hurts to look it over.

It started when the transmission shop got it. I had a check engine light but it ran fine . I took it in because it would drop out of 3rd into 2nd..sometimes. Sometimes it wouldn't shift into 3rd. Sometimes it shifted perfectly. It was always random. Never quit shifting right and stayed that way. Told the shop this and they decided it was the clutches and rebuilt it. Picked it up after it was "fixed" and it wouldn't go into 3rd. Carried it back. They were going to check a wiring harness and called later that day and said it was good to go. Picked it up late Friday after hours and it would barely run. Finally limped home. Unhooked the battery for bout an hour and let the computer reset. Ran great... but the check engine light came back. Went to get a pizza a couple days later and on the way home the transmission fell into 2nd and died. Limped it to their shop and sounded like wires arching under it and could smell a burning smell. In a couple days it was supposedly fixed but would not run right so they delivered it to the guy that does our mechanic work and here we are. I trust the mechanic that worked on it as he has a reputable shop and have used him quite a bit in the past. But anybody can be wrong every now and then and I'm not gonna go spend 5k on a new motor because one dude said it was smoked. Transmission shifts out good and motor runs good. But will not idle when it warms up and there is no check lights present. So you see it's been one big ole shit sandwich from the start. I'm going to put a good battery on tomorrow and clean the tb. I'm not familiar with checking pressures and compression. If I have no luck I'm carrying it to the guy my dad uses. He super sharp. Only reason I didn't go to him initially is because he's a little over an hour away. Maybe if I have to carry it to him it will catch fire on the way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe the code in your pcm will help point at the problem

Yeah maybe. Tb is clean and a fresh battery did nothing. I think the tranny place jacked up some wiring. My doors were locking and unlocking by themselves with the motor off . Also noticed my clock doing the same shit a few minutes ago when I got back from a test drive


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definite electrical gremlins. I'd start with grounds. Tight & clean...

Make sure no wires are pinched between the engine and bell housing of the trans. There is a harness that runs down the trans and plugs into it.

Something got mangled when the trans was out.

Yep, sounds like a pinched harness. Be surprised if that happened without toasting one or more of the computers.