What's the differnce between the Briggs and the Generac motors? Are they made to tighter tollerances ? I don't under stand the differnce and why people want to mod them over there Briggs

Can someone explain alittle like the pros and cons and why

thanks

You can get parts all day long for the Briggs motors and modd them all day long, as far as the Generac motors i've read and heard that parts are not as easy to get and there aren't a whole lot of mods out there right now for them, Ask Drake1 about them he has one up and running with a couple of mods on it.

Although the Generac motors are known for the low RPM torque!

I've got several hundred hrs sticktme on generac pd's and Briggs pdd's. (and kholer engine pd's)

Briggs is the easiest to fix when they blow up. More parts available.
Generac's. Are the torqueiest.

I'd like to try a 40 kholer with
a aftermarket carb as my next motor.

If u want
aeveryday driver, get the Briggs and leave it stock.

The Generac are built better, a stock generac will beat a stock briggs or kohler any day. The briggs are rated at 36 hp with the muffler off while the generac is rated at 33 hp with the muffler on. Under the same hp testing as the kohler 40hp and the briggs 36 hp the generac 33 hp will have about 44hp and more torque then all of them. So you don't have to do has much to them to get high hp out of them. Plus there under 100lbs. And about 600 hundred dollars cheaper, so that will leave you with some money for mods. So you could get a 33 generac and put a stage 2 on it (if you can do the work yourself) for about the same amount of money as a stock briggs or kohler.

There has been someone that has a 36 briggs with stage 3 and 33 generac with a stage 3 and the 33 generac out performs the briggs.

ljhopp... you weigh your motor?

When I unloaded my motor off the back of the truck the freight carrier's shipping slip said the motor weighed like 98 lbs. I have not weighed it my self tho.

the stock rods suck on the generacs if ur gonna spin it up. seen more than one turn loose.

if u changeout the rotating assembly to a high quality one, it will be a mean mo-chine.

rail had one for years, but he got tired of the bs on here and don't post anymore.

Mine will hopefully be ready in a week.... only stock item in the rotating assembly is the crank... everything else is mods....

WOW, this forum has changed, if I would of made that comment I did six months ago I would of been attacked like 30 times by now. Seems like nobody post on here anymore. What do you expect when everyone just talks sh!t to everyone, people will get tryed of it and quit posting because there sick of the bs.

yep.... a lot of people with good information don't get on that much anymore...

Thanks for the responce I'm not doing one I just read some post on here and I was kinda scratching my head why you would want to do one

So far I'm getting they suck to get parts for
rotating assembly sucks
but has more punch for less

Kinda a win loose I guess unless you have the coin to just change it all out
then you gots a beast

why everyone getting scared of 'em now.... parts are hard to find but they are half the price of Briggs parts when ya do find them.... I had to swap cranks since mine came with 1-7/16".... new crank was less than $100....

prodrive owners already went thru their generac phase.

now it's gatortail owners turn. maybe it will endup better this time.

good luck.

i liked mine while it lasted. wouldn't get another one though, too many headaches that u don't get from briggs or kholer. my need for longevity outweight's my need to be a guinea pig.

Lets compare Apples to Apples

Kohler lists their CH1000 engine at 40hp Based on the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J1940 Standard which is done with the Air Cleaner & Muffler Removed

Actual DYNO testing with the muffler & air cleaner installed on a 40hp Kohler produced 33.1hp at the Generac Test Laboratory

This Generac engine will produce the same to slightly more horsepower that the Kohler engine under the same test conditions

Even more important is engine torque

The Kohler Engine produced 61+LB FT of torque

The Generac engine produced 63+lb ft of torque

Generac 40hp (Per SAE J1940) max engine

Peak Horsepower (HP) specifications for general purpose engines are calculated pursuant to the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J1940 for horsepower ratings - calculated with the air cleaner and muffler removed, per the SAE standard. Actual engine horsepower is lower and affected by, but not limited to, accessories (air cleaner, exhaust, charging, cooling, fuel pump, etc.), application, engine speed and ambient operating conditions (temperature, humidity and altitude). The reason for this standard is to provide consistent measurement to customers who may want to control the intake and exhaust features of the engine.

Equal to 40hp Kohler in HP & Torque in a much smaller package.

None of the other mfg's of big block air cooled engines can make that statement

GENERAC 40hp Peak 36hp continous Horizontal Shaft Engine Has a Whopping 64ftlbs of torque@2400rpm.

This is the most important measurement of an engines ability to perform work!!!!!

Check this link: http://science.howstuffworks.com/fpte5.htm
Will replace Briggs, Kohler, Kawasaki & Honda Horizontal Engines.
Designed to last 3000+ hours if maintained properly

This BRUTE of an engine is made in the USA.
It Features a massive 64 lb-ft of torque.
It’s low profile make it easily adaptable as a replacement for the smaller hp Briggs & Kohler Engines
It will also easily replace the big Block Kohler, Briggs, Honda & Kawasaki engines

Peak Horsepower (HP) specifications for general purpose engines are calculated pursuant to the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J1940 for horsepower ratings - calculated with the air cleaner and muffler removed, per the SAE standard. Actual engine horsepower is lower and affected by, but not limited to, accessories (air cleaner, exhaust, charging, cooling, fuel pump, etc.), application, engine speed and ambient operating conditions (temperature, humidity and altitude). The reason for this standard is to provide consistent measurement to customers who may want to control the intake and exhaust features of the engine.

Peak Horsepower (HP) specifications for general purpose engines are calculated pursuant to the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J1940 for horsepower ratings - calculated with the air cleaner and muffler removed, per the SAE standard. Actual engine horsepower is lower and affected by, but not limited to, accessories (air cleaner, exhaust, charging, cooling, fuel pump, etc.), application, engine speed and ambient operating conditions (temperature, humidity and altitude). The reason for this standard is to provide consistent measurement to customers who may want to control the intake and exhaust features of the engine.

Here is a comparison of the Briggs, Generac & Kohler Engines

Model
HP
Torgue
Bore
Stroke
Disp
Length
Width
Height
Weight


Generac GTH990
40hp+
64lbft
3.54"
3.1"
992cc
14.5"
17.2"
19.149 w/std a/c
119lb with muffler

Kohler CH1000
40hp
61.5lbft
3.5"
3.1"
999cc
15.3"
19"
27.5" with HD AC
132lb w/o muffler

Briggs 61 series
35hp
53.5lbft
3.4"
3.4"
993cc
15.1"
19.5"
28.5" With HD AC
125lb w/o Muffler

Dead Animal you look different in your boat than you do in your avatar?????

Sorry couldn't resist!!!!!

Question.......who's the cute guy in da green shirt?

cool info on the generac's. if they would of had a better carb back then they would of been a big hit i beleive. the stock prop on them was a 13'' cleaver, which a stock 36 briggs couldn't turn.
i had put a carb on mine, that made it as easy to drive as any motor out there. but i also tookout the govenor, which led me to overev alot and caused it's untimely demise.
it was a rooter no doubt.

i wish nothing but sucess for the guys with them, cheaper and torquier, that'a a winner to me.
i had over 400 good hrs on mine. would of replaced it with another but i got a deal on a briggs i couldn't pass up.

what hp stickers are on the genercs now? i've sen 30, 32, and 33 hp stickers o the same engines back then. lol

that hansom man in the other pic ismy brother in law, Willie Hodecker.

The new model generac's are 33hp model's.

If you want to get some real good info call evt and they can give you all the info you would ever need to know about the generac.

Man, those old school pro-drive engines were fuggly!

i plan to be pushing 70HP+ when mine is done.... will have custom stickers made to say "Extreme Generac"....

but yea the new ones are 33HP and LJHOPP some of your specs are wrong....


the Generac is still 992cc not 999.... unless you bore it like me and now have 1020cc

Generac GTH990
40hp+
64lbft
3.54"
3.07"
992cc
14.5"
17.2"
19.149 w/std a/c
119lb with muffler

Kohler CH1000
40hp
61.5lbft
3.5"
3.1"
999cc
15.3"
19"
27.5" with HD AC
132lb w/o muffler

Briggs 61 series
35hp
53.5lbft
3.37"
3.41"
993cc
15.1"
19.5"
28.5" With HD AC
125lb w/o Muffler

Well thanks for clarifing and making it as simple as using google I was just going by what iv read ,my bad Im not doing one I was just curious about them

Sounds like a neat way to do it but you basicaly have build the motor ground up starting with just a block ....

So if you have a stock Briggs block alone and a stock generac block and you built them starting with only the block and you used the same durration cam same stroke on the crank and both bore sizes the same and the same carb and pipes the generac would be better??

What makes them perform beter than the other besides the numbers posted above
it could be any thing from better tolerances to better valves and valve seats

I have never built one of these motors before so I'm just wanting to learn some knowledge about them

All things identical the Generac will out due the Briggs.... it has shorter stroke so you will get up in RPMs faster...

also the generac block would be a better block to start with.... that is the true +++++++ of the generac.... much more reinforcement cast into it

You do not have to do all the mods. All the stuff brlcla is doing is purely to get more power out of the motor. He replaced the entire rotating assembly because he wanted to, not because he had to. The original problems if I'm not mistaken was mainly the carb/gov on the generac. LJHOPP says they fixed the carb, so the engines may be fine stock now. These guys are using the generac's because they are built more solid. More internal bracing to hold everything together when you're creating that much power. Less likely to crack blocks and what not on the generac's.

Bricia!! All the money you spending on mods and shit in these 35 or 33 piece of shit aint gonna last.. A air boat is gonna run 90 percent of the time wot.. just to have enough power to do any thing with.. Cut your loses now and go buy you a 65 horse rotax and be done with it.. 10 years from now it will still be running!! We been running these motors for the last 25 years in little air boats and still run then today..If you want a demo come to morgan city and i will show you ..

i am just having fun right now.... and i do not run WOT 90% all the time.... i usually cruise at 2700-3000 rpm.... only go wot when i jump on plane then i back it down... my boat easily stays on plane in deep water at 2700 with just me.... fully loaded i stay on plane at around 36-3800.... WOT is 4600-4800RPM after i set the prop...

i know i can go rotax or lycoming.... i can also go 350 or 496... like i said... just experimenting and having fun right now... and mods are not that pricey... if ya got it spend it...


this boat is just a stepping stone into the 496 i will likely build in 4-5 yrs... i wanted a small boat i could run on local waters and not piss too many people off.. also can idle around all night bowfishing and barely burn 6 gallons....

and can't eveyone tell my name is all lower case letters.... BRLCLA not I or i

cool!! The wot im talking about is in the shit!! Clean water are for outboards lol!