Hey guys the case on the back of a MB where the belt is should be sealed? Correct I took mine out and when I got home and ran the gas out it was dripping water out of the Lil vent of the case. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be sealed any help would be grateful thanks !!

there i an o ring built in to the housing mating surfaces, but you should still put a lil sealant o it if you open it.

The O-ring is only on the newer models. I think they started using them in either 09 or 2010.
Yes, it should be sealed, whether it be just the o-ring, black rtv, or a combo of the 2. Make sure that the tab on the lower half (where the upper cover overlaps) has a good bead of sealant, as the o-ring will do nothing for that area.

Open the drain plug at the bottom of the case and ensure you don't have water in there (more than a few teaspoonfuls and you need to re-seal it).

There is alot more product specific information on the MB forum. I posted a detailed post on how to seal the drive.

I opened the lil drain plug on the bottom and there was a bit of water that came out thats why i got concerned. Cause im sure salt water is not good for those parts at all. Looks like i will be taking the casing off this weekend to reseal it properly. My MBHD is an 07 model the cas covers are two pieces i have neve worked on one but i dont think it can be to hard lol trail and error thats how you learn lol

It's simple, all you need is an 8mm allen wrench & a razor blade or wire brush. Pull out the 6 or 8 top bolts & remove the clutch cover (top half). Then remove the 5 bottom bolts (bottom center can be a PITA sometimes) and remove the shaft housing. Clean it all up with the wire brush / razor blade & run about a 1/16" to 1/8" bead around the BOTTOM Half of the belt housing. Rope the belt with the pulley on the drive shaft, & bolt it back on. This is a good time to check the belt tension. I always just grab the 2 sides & squeeze it like checkin a bicycle tire, just a lil spongy. Next run a bead around the top half of the belt housing and a good bead across the tab on the bottom half that under laps. Bolt on the clutch cover & let it dry overnight. When it all goes right, you're looking at less than an hour job.

sweet i hope so i wanna fish this weekend thank god for having fridays off lol to fix this kinda stuff.

I have had mine apart numerous times they are really simple. Camo was right on. I.m not sure if your taking the bottom half off 2 but that might be where you are getting water in. That part of your belt housing is the one that is in the water the most. It comes off the same but then you have to losten all the housing bolts so you can get the belt back on. Then in back of the belt housing is your tension bolt. Use that to tighten the belt back up.

You don't have to adjust the belt to get it back together unless you change the belt. It will be a snug fit, but it will work. As many times as I've had covers & drives off, the only times I've ever had to adjust tension was with new belts or gears.

Cool i dont wanna have to mess with stuff that dont need to be messed with so the less i have to take apart the better it does sound that hard but it never does lol hopefully it works out good

I see 3CK, so I'm guessing you're not too far away from me here in Port Arthur. If you want, I'll help ya with it or even take care of it for ya.

I live in the Houston area umm Alvin is the name of the town but I'm gonna give it a shot man. I appreciate the offer camo.

Gary, you have a pm

All the HW on the outdrive is standard- 5/16 is close to 8MM but the allen bolts are standard (note the 5/16 allen comes with the tension kit and gauge). 1/2 is close to 12mm but the top bolt inside the casing is 9/16 and clutch bolt is 5/8. If the HW is tough to loosen, you have a chance of stipping them.

If your outdrive is the correct tension already, then you may get away with not taking the tension loose. However, you have an outdrive with a bunch of silicone on it trying to hold it up to the case, push down on the belt, and align the bolt holes. It can be difficult to hold the heavy outdrive, line up the allen bolts to get them in the holes without gasket sealer getting everywhere- especially if you don't have help. The outdrive casing is alluminum and you have a greater chance of cross threading the bolts as well as not getting a good seal on the gasket sealer. However, if the belt is already out of the tension spec, he is just repeating that problem. Something happened to break the lower unit seal (stump hit, vibration, something) which may have affected the tension. Pulling the outdrive up tight in the bolt holes before tightening is pretty critical to maintaining tension after any impacts.

I didn't intend to disrespect Camo, people always can take short cuts and I don't know everything. Then again, I have found its best to start with the full instruction and then find out yourself where you can reasonably modify- especially not knowing the reader's capability. If the person doing the work is not real handy and starts off by short-cutting on the short cuts, they can end up with gasket sealer all over him w/o a good seal, a belt out of correct tension, and some cross-threaded bolt holes in his outdrive.

Camo gave a great tip on using an angled distributor wrench for tightening the two 1/2" bolts under the belt/clutch, I will have to try that- I learn something every day.

For those 2 bolts under the Belt/Clutch I have always used a open end wrench ratchet wrench. You can squeeze it behind the belt and dont have to keep moving it to get it tight. Either way those 2 bolts are kinda a pain in the Azz but not too bad

Well guys I did it. I did it camo's way and it worked out good and didn't take me long at all I thank y'all for all the help guy. Y'all save me now tomorrow gonna take my dad out for his first mud boat ride and do a Lil fishing thanks again guys

Check your belt tension

Sent from my DROID2

I have a gates tension tool you can use to check the tension if you want. I live pretty close to Alvin just right down Hwy 6. let me know?