UPDATE, The relays are only 80amp and they will burn up eventually.


Installed this kit Friday, ran flawlessly all weekend. Superwinch kit part number 2320200. It's an upgrade kit for the ATV 2000lb winch and will handle up to 100amps. I got two from amazon last week shipped to the door for $62.42, cheaper than one factory switch.

They're a little more today but here's the link http://www.amazon.com/Superwinch-232020 ... B0015D4ZNY

The trim is way more responsive, and works "cleaner". You can tell the motors are getting full power now with the wires connected directly to the battery. The factory wiring was pulling power from the starter pole and grounded to the engine block. And the reverse takes less than 3 seconds now where before mine would drag sometimes and sound like it was struggling. With this kit you can add more switches as well.

Here's what you get, relay box and switch.


Here's a look inside the box which is sealed pretty good.


The only thing I had to purchase was some 5/16 connectors for the battery, the kit comes with 1/4" which doesn't fit the posts. There is plenty of wire with the kit but I had to add abour 8" to the box farthest from the battery, no big deal with a butt connector and heat shrink.


The old harnesses and switches


Final installation with the boxes mounted to the transom

Very clean install. I know what you mean sometimes mine will be slow to trim up or go to reverse like it's not getting enough power to the pump

maybe prodrive should look into that

you did a nice job on the install will

They have a winch solenoid on the 2013's, problem solved...but they don't have them for sale as upgrades yet. Can't get much cheaper than this.

Nice job Will, very clean setup!

From what the guys at the PD shop told me there changed up the switches on the new PD's to make it a operate smoother, but i haven't seen it in action. there new motors have a few diffrent things on them from mine

I assume you use the rocker switches that were already installed and just changed the relays?

Anyone know where to get the black and red rocker switches like they use?

You paid $60 for 4 $.45 relays and two little plastic boxes?

Oh and a couple bucks worth of wire and two low current switches. Now it makes sense.

Just out of curiosity, why didn't you go with the heavy duty solenoids? Isn't that what prodrive switched to? Seems they would stand up to the weather much better. I would seal the shit out of those boxes, cause the relays do not like getting wet. That's why pretty much all the MM manufacturers have done away with them. The way you have them sitting right now, any water coming over the transom is going to run straight down the wires and in to the relays. Or rain, or any water coming from above. They are gonna give you fits the way you have them right now!

Now to figure out why your light bar has a strobe feature when under power.

It did look cool when you were coming towards us. I thought you were doing it on purpose.

Not trying to bring you down man. I was just giving you a hard time at first, but after another look I seen an issue that is likely to cause issues down the road. A relay or solenoid is def a better option than a high current switch as you've already determined, but you gotta keep relays dry. Just trying to help you out.

How many amp does the motor pull? I have a couple of relays and some weather proof rockers from a Yamaha Rhino winch project. Bike is long gone, but still have two switches and some relays.

nope, mine are 50. have to go your route.

Will. thats the way i've done it many times. to others on this site hit up your boat dealers. last week i bought 4 mercury outboard trim relay harness. and 5 cowl trim switches for $20.00. off of blown engines. all u have to do is ground the harness. and hook to power. pre wired already for trim switch in the harness and power and ground. makes for a good sound fix. use a water proof box as cb stated.

I just got an email from KP at PD...he said they are in the process of making a conversion kit to update the old style trim/reverse. He said it will cost around $80 and should be available in a month or so...

Looks good. Spray the shit out of the relays and wires inside the box with Corrosion X, then seal the box. Should be good. Corrosion X is some bad ass shit.

The more I thought about this, you have a newer PD and I believe your trim pump has 2 wires. Mine is the older Mercury PT501N-2 with 3 wires. Wonder if it makes a difference in wether or not it will work.

Bayouboy said in the other thread it would only work for the 2 wire setups. Unless you modify it which he didn't go into detail on how to do.

What's the third wire on the motor? Either ground or power and I would think you could still do it with relays by using them to divert the power.

Yeah did some reading and thats what it looks like. In the picture i found, green and blue were connected to the solenoids/relays (not sure) and the black was connected to ground. So actually in Prestons drawing:
image.jpg

You would think you could connect the black wire on the motor to the black terminal on his solenoid. The Blue and yellow I assume is the Blue and green on mine. As far as this superwinch relay box, How did you wire it?

I'm not sure you need either with that motor is what I'm thinking...

New Pro-Drives are coming with the new system now and it works well, we have been using them all spring. We will have some at demos this weekend, the conversion kit will be nice, should eliminate many of the issues with the switches we have seen over the past couple seasons.

PW

Clean install, but I would seal up those boxes with silicone as well just to be sure. Since you mounted them on the transom, you will drive water into them while trailering in the rain- thats what killed a bunch of rev limiters in the past.

Man I need some help. I bought the kit and it is functional, but something is wrong. Its way SLOW, and the control wires are getting hot. I have an 09 motor, so its wired like this: at the trim unit is negative or ground, then up wire and down wire. At the switch its constant positive or hot, which then pushes power to the up wire or down wire. I'll send you my number if you don't mind to call me. Thanks.