Going stage 3 so I decided to try this, maybe it's been done before not sure if it was mentioned yet but for those that wanna know I'm doing this on a vertical right now but I will be doing it on a horizontal also. The studs have been set with locktite and the nuts are all metal and dimpled so that there is no nylon to melt.

It has been done bit haven't heard anything about it in awhile. Can't remember who bit they were using nordlock washers.

Hope it works out. Damn something needs to. I have about 60 hrs since cam swap and gasket change with no sign if leaks... knock on wood!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I just did the same to mine. Grade 8 studs in the case and crimp lock nuts with blue loctite. I installed a new cam and thought I'd try since i had to crack the case,So far so good. About 25 hours on it and no loose nuts. I used a marker of some sort my buddy gave me that is supposed to help ya tell wheather or not the nuts broke loose. Just checked em tonight and the paint marker is still intact. It seems to be working.......... So far.

Fyi: I did have to run a threading die over the stud to cut 4 or 5 extra threads to get it to work out better. This was one the nut side of the stud. Not sure if you'll have to but thought I'd mention it either way.

Thanks for the input, after assembly I will be marking the stud and nuts with a paint marker also to ensure that there is no movement, fingers crossed I hope this works

So is that the secret you been talking about? Cat out of the bag?

That's one of them


Sent from my iPhone using

I still don't know why y'all don't just weld them shut. It would strengthen the block as well.

Get someone to make a b8 bolt with a machine shoulder at top and it will be done deal. I could get them made for about $2-3 a piece for people we use at work. I talked with Calen months ago about trying this and he was suppose to measure a crankcase for me bc mine hasn't been off in a long time

If someone has a crankcase laying around measure holes with a caliber and give me a max and min and I'll calculate the temp growth and stretch and could get some made if people are interested

U will accomplish exact same thing machining a shouldered bolt versus middle shouldered studs....

It needs to be measured and then u need to calculate heat growth or it will break it EVERYTiME if it's to tight tolerance

Also care to explain how a larger shoulder inside the crank case holes cracks a block....???

No need to tie wire if bolts won't back out or come loose

I still need to do some very critical measuring but I found a problem Sunday when I was doing a service on my motor and started play with my bare block! but I will say more after I no for sure about some of the bolt lengths !