Its been on my list for a while to get a pulsator built for this season, and I finally ordered the parts to get it going for this weekend. My idea is to cut the back of a normal floater open and put a small hinge on the flap (kinda like a spinner), then find a balance spot for the 12v battery to sit and wire up the flasher and run my hot and ground wires through a small hole in the bottom of the decoy (with a quick disconnect a foot or so outside the floater) and out to the sump mounted under the butt-feeder. Once I have everything set in the floater I'll squirt some great stuff foam insulation and fill up most of the floater with the battery and flasher partially submerged in the foam. This should allow me to contain all of my electrical components in the floater and just have the wires going directly to the sump. Im thinking I might also run a fuse inline to prevent a future problem... Any suggestions? Sound Correct?

post some pics when you get it fixed up.

i have built 5. and use them reguarly in my spread with great luck.i use to use an old blinker switch. but now higdon sells the puler timer for 25 bucks and is does so much better.

wire from house = free
dry box from walmart in camping section =9.99
blinker swich from auto zone = 4 or higdon puler for 24.99
pvc cap from lowes= .45 cents
duck but cabelas =19.99 for 2
battery 12v at acadamy=19.99
bildge pump from acadamy=12.99
3M 5200 selant that hardens= 6.99

total=95.39

they are normally if bought through cabelas 169 i think.

i went the duck body route too. its to heavy. duck butt is better with battery and pulsor in a seperate drybox. 3 ft away. been running my 5 for 4 years now.

Sounds good, I can see how the weight thing could be an issue... Tried it with Magnum floaters? I just dont like the idea of having the electrical submerged... I might have to hit up the walmart and see if they have a dry box... Im using a flasher from the napa store...

yea that works but its just a blinker on/off. the higdon pulsor is a number of sequences of on's and off's. but will work. my electronics are fine in the dry boxes for the last 4 years.

I used an adjustable timer. Some kids kit set electronics project, cheap and works great.

for everyone that has already built these how long will yalls batteries last with a charge? A couple hunts or are yall charging them after every hunt?

good deal that's what I was hoping for, where did you find the adjustable timer?

i get 3 hunts at about 4 hours each charge.

I have done something similar with a mallard machine. I took the electronic control box and mounted in a decoy like you are talking about but I used a sealed battery from napa about the size of a jet ski battery. I tied a rope to it and the decoy and hooked the wires up and sunk the battery with no box. I wasn't sure how it would work, or if the water would kill the battery but it worked fine. Used the same battery for 5 years during duck season on the mallard machine, and used it for trolling battery for pond fishing in the summer. Never had any problems.