Didn't Isky do your cam? He will regrind it for a VERY reasonable fee... In a couple weeks I expect to get another .308" lift cam from Web Camshafts and I promise I'll triple check the clearances on the one coming back out and the new one. I'm fairly positive (99.9%) that the numbers I've got are correct, measure twice and cut once right!?!? You are 100% correct on .100 exhaust and .80 intake being the ideal standard "safe" tolerance. Exhaust is highly critical whereas intake is not as much. This is not to account for float because you can't calculate it.more later...

Isky took over a month on the first, lost the second, then took almost 3 months to get it back when I replaced it, and has had four of my briggs cams for the entire time that he's had the second, I still have not received. Not likely I will send anything else back that way..

Those elephant feet adjusters are pretty slick.

Ok I'm gonna get back into this conversation. You need to understand the whole picture. Your getting hung up and getting tunnel vision on 1 topic, P2V and that we didn't acknowledge a potential problem. We just found this out and to be honest, we didn't feel the need to let it be know and scare people for one event. We wanted to find out ourselves. We also wanted to find out if indeed there was an issue or an isolated incident. I also like how you took my words out of context to prove your point. But here are the hard numbers so you can get the whole picture.

310 cam profile

Lobe lift .310 both the intake and exhaust
Rocker Ratio Intake - 1.22
Rocker Ratio Exhaust - 1.24

RAR x Lobe Lift Intake - .378
RAR x Lobe Lift Exhaust - .384

P2V intake - .101
P2V exhaust - .138

P2V Intake -.025 decking = .076
P2V exhaust -.025 decking = .113

Safety factor for Rod expansion - .030 (I have looked into this extensively and it appears that most hotrodders use this when figuring there p2v out. This is far from a V8, but we used this factor as a safety measure)

P2V Intake -.025 - .030 (safety factor) = .046
P2V Exhaust -.025 - .030 (safety factor) = .083

Now this is where I decided to index my pistons, which is actually really easy. Once TC recorded great low end numbers with .050 and stock cam, I decided to do it as well to see if this could get rid of the slight low end loss form the 310 cam. The stock by far was the best low end, but fell off too low in the rpm category. So I decided to go 310. I floated the valves at 4740 or so (it back about 20 pages), so we looked around for other springs. The whole while, I ran my .025 decked heads with the 310 +4 cam and stock springs for a while, just noting that valve float was around 4740 or so. During this time, I hit a sand bar and when I looked back, I was 5600+. Again, I continued to run with no problems that I was aware of. I found the springs from Century and installed them without pulling the heads. Again, If I would have pulled the heads then, I would have either noticed if I touched off or not. But I didn't so there is no telling. Installed new springs. Now this sucker would flat out roll. I could now rev to 5000 and hold it for as long as I wanted. But Still had the slight low end loss when compared to the stock.

So In order to get the low end back, I wanted to deck to a total of .050 (KNOWING THAT MY P2V WAS TIGHT). So the only way to get my P2V clearances back was to index the piston. So I decided to index the pistons .050. By doing this, I would have negated all the decking and basically regained my clearances back. When going back with the heads, That's when I noticed my geometry was off and needed attention. This again was 2 weeks ago. Before with .025", my geometry was dead nuts, but at .050", it needed attention. So now my clearances are:

P2V Intake -.050 decking - .030 (safety factor) + .050" Index = .071"
P2V Exhaust -.050 decking - .030 (safety factor) + .050" index = .108"

I'm happier with the P2V numbers. I indexed the heads .050" deep and .100" over size. This gave me .050" greater in radius to take into account side to side wobble slop. They currently have a new cam that we are waiting on and hope for good results.

I'm sure that I speak on behalf of all of the Kawi guys, that I basically don't have the time to give a day by day update of WTF is going on. There is really no sense in putting all that info out there. The 6 in the group message are working like an R&D team. We are actually working out issues and coming up with new ideas behind the scenes and just don't want to be bombarded with tons of questions. Those that have had concerns have personally called one of us. Its a very slow process and we are each spending lots of money to get these things worked out. What really pissed us all off is the fact that were being called out for hiding info. First off, I for one am not receiving 1 dime for my work put into this nor do I want any money. I enjoy working with these guys on the issues and hopefully we can have a great alternative motor for the PD. Second, and I'm willing I speak for the group on this. Take it as it may, but it was a direct shot at us for not catching the problem. I'm not selling kits nor do I want to, but during this project, folks need to understand that problems will occur and that each part on these engines are custom. there not legos and you cant just go to any performance shop to get it. having said all that, even with the slightest little hiccup that we just had, I still think this is a better block than the briggs for PD purposes.

This fucking thread sure went off the deep end. Geez.

Nevermind..fuggit.

They are smaller. Like 5 or 6, don't remember and a super fine thread. I looked for something with a bigger head on it when we first started trying to figure this out. Nothing local had anything close. Rocker arm could always be drilled out and re-tapped though.

lol, it's a 5/8" brass hose barb. Cut the back side off, the lip in the center makes the shim, then cut the top side off at the first barb, a little shorter than the valve seal, then drill out the center so it slides over the seal. One's I used shimmed about .090, the ones my buddy found for the other motor were I think .070.

I did a little checking around today on these and there are some with a roller foot also. I agree the Kawi's are prolly smaller. Only two concerns I'd see would be how much articulation the foot has and if it'll fit between stem and rocker if we can find em in our size

Thanks CB. I'm running 0.09" right now. I like the option to keep the spring centered.


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Yall need to wait and don't get caught up in the 310. As we just found out within the last few weeks, having more compression is showing signs of good performance with a lower lobe lift cam. Webcams is working on one with slightly lower lift, but its about 2 weeks out still if I remember. So when its all said and done, we still may not have found the best one.

Great post, banded mallard. As far as someone taking a "shot" at you, I just think it's CB5331's way of saying he loves you. But seriously, his keypad must have a caustic mode and it's always on by default.

Probably not relevant, but I recently tried to find a 4mm bolt with super fine threads like what y'all are describing. It was actually a part for a Daiwi fishing reel. In my case I came to the conclusion that it was proprietary to Daiwi because I couldn't find anything remotely close to it.

Drill and tap?

These are mo' betta' I'm thinking... Called "flat ball" lash screws. Used on some motorcycles.

Put Kawi to the test today. 6 people, 150+, 4 Bout 125, my big ass and the wife, ice chest and 14 gallons of fuel. Pulling a tube at 4600 - 4800 rpms. Put on worn prop Cuz I didn't think it would tote all that shit with the 14p. Didn't have my gps, but it was fast enough that I could swurve side to side and bounce their ass around. I think the stock cam, due to its low end may have been a little better. But considering the weight in this sucker and pulling 2 on the tube, I was actually pretty impressed.

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Just thinking out loud here, but being your loosing your decking due to indexing. Sounds like the next step in this evolution is to weld/build up/machine the combustion chamber or custom dome pistons.

Double checked mine yesterday and both are real close to 185 psi decked .025" and deshrouded... Flat tops, hmmm Also built a couple advance timing keys and installed the smaller one. Going to test this afternoon.

One other thing I've been procrastinating about was building shims to go in between the low side of the rocker boss and rocker itself. Finally went looking for washers and found some fiber ones, I'd have preferred brass I think, but these were the hard fiber material. I sanded them down to .040" thickness and this centers the rocker adjustment screws directly over the valve stems on mine. The engines are probably all this way but I actually know of only three that are. Of course the thickness of the shim may vary engine to engine. Head to head mine were exactly the same. Where the shim is placed the gap is tapered and at first I made a couple tapered to fit but wasn't sure they wouldn't roll around to the tight side and cause excessive side pressure on the bosses so I went with 'em flat. I've noticed over time that the lash adjustment can vary as you slide the rocker back and forth and this allows for consistent lash as well as reduced valve train noise.

I have almost a complete Kawasaki engine if anyone interested call me I'll make it a good deal

What defines "almost complete"? Lol

Got side tracked... Advance timing key worked great, smoothed idle and gives it more responsive acceleration. I didn't really notice much on the top but that combined with shimming the rockers she's purrin' like a kitten.

Need starter coils stator and the know how

Giving up already

That's his back up motor

No just got two much shit in my shed can't move in it and I don't have any use to build another I have a new one used this one to be able to do stuff like heads while still running the engine on my boat used cam to send off just anything to keep my motor running while experimenting it was just backup and don't really need it now heads only got 30 hrs was planning on building second engine to tinker with but don't have to fuckers are tough I figured I would have destroyed something by now but I didnt