So I bought this motor used 2yrs ago and loved the way it ran, and was told it was built by Cody at SETX. Cracked the case Cover at SETX last weekend so took it apart and got curious. Pics with questions below each.
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So this is the cam, looks like a stocker but the lobes have been ground and max lift measures. 30". Just wondering what it may actually be? I don't have the tools to degree it.

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This is with the cam out and I am wondering if the crankshaft should have movement fore and aft as well as side to side, and up and down with no pressure from the cam? Or do I need to pull it and check the front bearing?

Well the fucking pictures didn't go where I wanted.

Guess I need to pull heads and pistons to pull crank and check the front bearing. Will take pictures of the lobes this evening, they are definitely ground down. Just I thought most performance cams came with advanced timing with the two timing mark indentions. I do think the front main bearing may need to be replaced. But we shall see.

Do you feel like you have lost performance since you bought it?

Not much, my thing I just really want to know what I'd in the motor. Lol

Crank Endplay spec is .002-.012 Closer to .012 is the goal.

Here are some pics of the case bearing. And a video, couldn't keep phone still.
https://youtu.be/1Tbi_CAwYdc
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Crank PTO journal measures 1.7690. Case Cover main bearing measures 1.7750. The cover is way out of spec, but it's cracked and new one will be here tomorrow.

You cant judge the crank play until you put the crank cover back on. Then you check the thrust play in/out. That's normal what you are seeing now.

Ok, but I am correct wit that measurement being wore the fuck out on the old cover correct?

Reject would be 1.777"

Yeah, so not all that bad.

I can also see slack in the connecting rod caps around the crank, like slight wiggle room and now wiggle carried to the rods. Is that normal as well?

I need to find someone around here that can balance a crank and flywheel, I'm sure that would help.

Crankpin new = 1.654" Reject =1.6525
Connecting rods = 1.656 reject = 1.658
So you should have about .002 play for oil film to keep the parts separated. more than .004 is reject on the rod.

If I can find someone local to balance the crank and flywheel, I'm going to pull it, otherwise the PTO journal is within spec, and I'm going to put it all back together when new Cover arrives.

Tim's Engines in Denham Springs, LA would be one place that can balance an engine.

After reading that I realized it couldn't be right

Just curious, can an engine shop actually balance the flywheel.? And how?

You reusing that cam?

More then likely, it's stout and not sure what would be stouter

Thanks DB, I'm still searching for somewhere local so I don't have to send it off

Finally found a place, gonna drop the crank and shit off thursday

Yup, he hasn't done one this small before but he wants to, he builds ALOT of motors and most are drag boats and cars.

anyone got contact info on a shop that has balanced a briggs crank and flywheel? the shop I. using is wanting to speak with one that has done it since they haven't ever done one this small?

Tim's Engines in Denham Springs, LA. 225-664-4931

Yup, they have been calling since last week and get the secretary, and she says someone will call back and no one will call the shop that has my parts back. They even called yesterday while I was standing there, same thing. the place I am using is a small 3 person shop called Arrowhead Machine and Speed in El Dorado, AR, they are really only needing the reciprocating factor/weight, and maybe number of throws in order to get the bob weight correct.

Or does anyone know the correct bob weight? or the reciprocating weight in order to plug it in and get the correct bob weight?

bump

Maybe Gary will Chime in about his shop he has used. This is the only place I know of that has done balance work in my general area.