Well I wanted a bright light for my boat without a permanent application so I converted my Golight from a 65w halogen bulb to a 35w HID for $40. First you will want to order the HIDs (they come in a kit of 2 so you can go in halves with a buddy) the Golight Radioray uses a H9 bulb. The kit can be purchased from here it is the Xentec Ultra Slim 5000k H9 bulbs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ultra-Sl ... 4aa4867837
When you get your HIDS in cut the rubber piece and one plug off, so that you get this. Leaving the plugs where the bulb wires meet the ballast wires allows you to change out bulb if it goes out easily.


Next disassemble your light by popping the two triangular pieces on both sides of the light off and unscrewing the the screw under each one. Then use a flat blade screwdriver a pop of the upper housing of the light. Unscrew the four screws on the front of the light around the lenses. Take the bulb out of the back of the housing by turning it and cut the zip tie holding that plug to what I will call the secondary housing. Now you can pull everything apart and use a Dremel (or similar tool) to cut the back of the secondary housing. Drill a few holes around the square you just cut for zip tie points. Cut the factory plug off that was plugged into the light bulb and locate the hot wire with a tester. You will need to put your Golight in your boat and turn it on with the remote to get power. I used butt splice with heat shrink to connect the ballast to the Golight power supply. Place the ballast and zip tie it into place. Route your wires inside of the secondary housing. Put the lenses housing into place and install the lenses cover on with the four screws. Only tighten them enough for the threads to hold it into place.


The white piece of plastic dividing the housings from the electrical components will need to be trimmed behind the ballast. Also a groove will need to be made behind the bulb where the wires will touch the white plastic.


The upper housing that was popped off also has a divider that will need to be removed and have a groove made into it for the ballast. Be careful making the groove or you could end up going through. If you do not have a gauge to measure how much you removed. Just keep your hand under where you are taking plastic off with your Dremel. As it gets thinner you can feel the bit cutting, when this happens move on down. I use the cutting bit #117.


I then cut little plastic pieces to put in between the lenses housing and the lenses cover.

Put everything back together and try it out my turning upward ability is somewhat limited by the ballast hitting but it is nothing I am worried about because I don't shine that high. It takes a couple times to get everything in the right position to where there is no binding. Hope this helps ya out. Here is a video I made afterwards the light is not being 100% responsive because of a bad plug on the boat.

Click for video. For comparison at the end of video that is a halogen work light, also this was taken from a phone.

Some wider perspective shots would be nice. Can't really tell what's going on.

The boat is under an awning in the neighborhood. You would not be able to get a full perspective of the light being put out anyways, as I was using a phone to take the video. That has poor resolution and does not even compare to the amount of light that is actually being put out. Also the Perko plug on the front of the boat broke so I was using my rear navigation light plug. I will say that it is much brighter than the stock 65w bulb. I will see about getting a video opening morning.

What about the pattern? My go light has way to tight of a pattern.

Awesome work Rzr and thanks for the write up! Have you tried them while running at night yet? I had a chance to use mine about 2 weeks ago and the difference was night and day compared to the halogens, I'm sure you'll be happy.

How long did it take you to build the light from start to finish?