Well, as the title says I'm in the market for my first duck boat and for versatility and the option to go anywhere I figure a mud boat/ surface drive is my best option. Through reading on here and other research I have changed my mind on the Excel that looked so good at the dealer. Between wanting quality that lasts and wanting to have exactly what I want for the kind of money we are talking I am leaning towards a custom route.

One custom or semi-custom (depending who you ask i suppose) I have considered is Phowler. Can you all recommend any custom builders and/or comment on the Phowlers?

I sure like how the dry storage on the Excel is on a 45 angle in the rear instead of just a box (practical and just clean look), as well as the accessories like shell boxes and jump seats etc that they can attach to the rail (things to be expected out of a production boat i suppose) but I assume that I can get a custom builder to have the same features but with better quality, longevity, and customer service. Just a matter of finding the right builder!

I'm probably looking at an 1860, but am open to size recommendations too

Take a look into prodigy

Where do you live and what kind of environment do you run in (mud,grass,stumps,rocks,etc.)? What about average load you will have in the boat?

Live in Michigan. AS far as a load probably on average 2 guys gear and a dog but would like it to run good with 3 (i know 4 can get to be a big load, may take 4 out now and then but im not going to build a boat to support peak performance with that load).

Environment is the hard part, I have been out of waterfowling for probably 7 years or more so I have a general idea of where I will be hunting but havent been doing it for a while. Just keep that in mind while I make my best attempt to give you this info. Mostly going to be running the edges of lakes as well as some shallower/muddier stuff in bays. I imagine I will encounter stumps but I doubt it would be like down south where they are everywhere. When I'm talking lakes I mean some open water but not like big water (may end up on the great lakes out here but will be right into shore, not out in the big stuff). Hope that helps as much as I can, if you have any questions ask away.

I know it may seem odd that I'm looking to buy a boat being as I'm just getting back into this but I'm getting married summer of 2016 so I figure I better get one before I have to ask permission haha

18' is the sweet spot for performance and load carrying
a 54" or 50" would be my recommended size, going as wide as 60" just saps performance and doesn't gain you much unless you are going to be hunting out of the boat a lot and want a more stable platform- even if that's the case, I would stay w/ a 54". Get high sides for your big water when the wind kicks up.

Look at round or multi-tapered chines for turning performance. True dry storage is a plus, but after a front hatch for PFDs, a driver's box and possibly a gun box you really don't need much else (you will figure this out once you have the boat for a while). Accessories like 'shell boxes and jump seats' are not really needed, I wouldn't select a boat based on the T-rail. Bow rows are a plus for Your passenger can sit on the gun box and the rest of the open hull will allow you options for your gear.

Have seen some very good looking Prodigy boats as mentioned above- they will build exactly what you want. GatorTrax will also build a fully custom boat for you as will others.

My 1851 Excel has worked well for me, but it doesn't have the dry storage.

I've been very happy with the performance of my 1854. Carrying loads that you talk about here with a stock motor. The only additions I have on my boat are 24" sides, a hunt deck, and very narrow catwalks.

It's just a square chine, and all 1/8", but it suits my needs well and has stepped more of a load than I thought it would.

I have owned five mud boats. All 18 footers. On the big water you want to run, I would not go anything less. My favorite boat widths have been my Gatortrax 50" (has higher sides than their 44" and 54" width boats) and my current Phowler 1852. As deadbird8 says, the 50-54" range for width is the sweet spot between stability, load carrying ability and speed.

I also echo what deadbird says about keeping the boxes and accessories simple. With every successive mud boat I have owned, I have put less storage boxes on it. Big and open is better in my book. I have one gun box on my current boat that holds my tools, life jackets and anything else I want to keep on the boat and stash away. Storage boxes make a boat heavier and cut into performance.

One aspect that has not been discussed on this thread is floatation. You will find that opinions vary as to the need. I run big windy water in sub-freezing temps and would never consider a boat without full level flotation and a 2000 GPH bilge pump. I guess if I only hunted chest deep flooded timber I might feel different about the need. Hunt deck boats are pretty slick for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that you have more open space in the boat because your rear flotation is in the hunt deck.

Have fun putting together your boat and remember not to complicate things...thank me later.

Forgot to mention that being in Michigan, Phowler boats are made closer to you than pretty much everything else, which is made in either Arkansas or Louisiana. Make sure that talking to Paul at Phowler is on your to do list. If you can get down to Iowa he will take you out in a variety of boats.

I searched around and ended up with an 1854 Prodigy and have no regrets. Carries a load like crazy but still has a good top end speed. Chad has been excellent to deal with all the way around

I've had a great experience with Phowler. Paul and everyone else there are great to deal with. He can build whatever you want and will be more than happy to guide you into the best fit for your needs.

Sent from my SCH-R950 using Tapatalk

^^^ Yikes! I'm a huge fan of flotation. It always shocks me that people are so against it. You can not want it, but I wouldn't be telling people how bad it is without at least stating 'this is the difference between standing knee deep in freezing cold water and swimming in freezing cold water until you reach land/help arrives". You also get to keep your boat.

After my hunting buddy submarined his boat, and I took on a wave over the back of mine..... Now these pics, I'm thinking twice now about not pulling out my flotation!


If its up high, it's coming to the ground

Flotation is the other thing that i struggle with a decision on besides what motor to put on the thing. I tend to be very cautious and plan ahead but losing all my hunt deck and front deck storage for flotation is something that i just struggle with on a duck boat where you need as much storage as possible. I definately plan on (2) 1500 GPH bilges with auto switch (and manual of course) but theres always the what if of needed floation. Most guys i have talked to up this way run the dual bilges without floatation but its just a tough decision

What about ice and boat hull bottom thickness ? Is that a concern ?

My boat is all 1/8 and I worry way more about the sides than the bottom

Don't be afraid of a 60 wide up north were we live. Yes they are a couple miles an hour slower with a very light load like guys down south run, but when you load them down with cold weather gear they will out plane the narrower boats, draft less water over hard bottom (which is the biggest problem getting on step up north) and they will break plenty of ice. We break 4-4.5 of hard ice and motor through 6-8" of rebreak ice at times, our 1960 has no damage from the ice on the bottom or sides. Call us at Phowler and tell us your loads, conditions and wants and we will give you our honest recommendation on what we know will work for you. We can build it just the way you want it to work for your situation.

PW

I took the flotation out of my boat. never flipped my boat before so see no reason for it. that's what life jackets are far. if your traveling rough water I could then understand