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Congrats.
I would highly recommend getting a grab handle. It will make it much easier and safer to drive, especially in a narrow boat like that. But get on the water and keep learning. You will learn its limits and enjoy it.

Congrats get some more stick time!! X2 on grab bar
Bend the cavitation plate to adjust prop ride "height" in water

sounds a little slow for that motor, what prop is on it?

and definitely install a grab bar, asap.

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That boat basically has no rake. Depending on how it rides, you may be pushing a wall of water with the front end. Put all the weight as far back as you can and see if it runs any better by getting that front end up. This is one of the advantages of an actual mud hull over a john boat, in that they have longer rakes to get up on top of the water to cut down on drag.

Also, if you can ever figure out how the skeg needs to be set, drill another hole aft of the current one and put another bolt through it. Epoxy ain't gonna hold it, so forget that idea.

It's hard to tell in the pic cause the tape measure doesn't go straight across the prop but it looks like its around 8" or so, if it's a 9x4 and it is measuring 8" then u need a new prop for sure and that could be a few mph's right there, I have a 23 gdlt and it runs a 9x6. The more tiller time the easier it gets and a grab bar can come in handy. Have fun with it.

Once you get the cav. Plate dialed in it will be a little easier to drive, they are no 25Merc thats for sure.

Def get a grab bar before the next time out!
Be patient, it will come to you and you will be able to adjust the load and get a little more speed.


The prop should be a 9x6-7, your RPM's are just a tad low it may take some tweaking of the throttle lever to get it right. I wouldnt expect more than a 3mph gain out of that rig when it is properly set up though

Since the prop kicks out, bend the cavitation plate up, 1/4" at a time, evenly, with a large crescent wrench, and test each time till you get the right planing depth. I've run an LT since 1986, should of bought a grab bar by now but haven't- but will- but sure put on that kill switch lanyard every time out! We've used rivetted boats for years, and in 2004 I bough an all-welded grizzly which is nominal but does the job, I'd actually prefer a lighter rivetted hull since we run in shallow, hard bottom, little mud areas. No "washboarding" on the hull bottoms I've often read about, but then we don't have stumps, beaver dams, and the like. Get a new throttle, a 9x6 prop, and read my post on this LT forum down below.

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Okay, there should be a "tab" or something on the very end of the cav. plate.
You bend the tab up small incriments at the time until the prop will ride as close to the surface as possible without blowing out.

Try to find my review of my rig in the review forum, there might be some ideas on the grab bar in there.

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cavplate.pngRanger-

Take a crescent wrench and bend the end of the cav plate up. I would not do it more than 1/8" at a time. It does not sound like a lot, but it makes a huge difference. In the picture I attached you want to bend up the area between the red lines.

Ranger, I dont know if I would trust that bolt design.

If it gets bound up it mud and grass and you pick up the prop I can just imagine the prop making a mess of that plate when it moves.

Get it at an angle where it runs about right then weld that fukker up, you can make minor adjustments by bending the plate after that.

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How much did the previous owner use the motor?

If he used it the wrong way for more than a few hours, the prop could be shot.. and it looks shot.

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I think a lot of the problem is the prop, u should look in to getting a 9x6 or a 9x7

I ran a 25 gdlt for years on a boat identical to that and with a new 9x7 it would run 22mph all day long with just me (190 lbs.). weld that cav plate in place so you can adjust the tip of it with a wrench, and make sure youre getting full rpms out of water. maybe worth getting the motor checked at a local small engine shop. just my .02

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You wont be able to turn that stock motor high enough to hurt it while in the water.
Just don't set your OOW RPM's to above 4300 and you'll be fine.

Ive seen some people just bend it like what you have, but I would cut tabs like you said.

As a prop wears or load changes you have to adjust that plate and its alot easier to bend that tab than mess with bolts.

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It would definetly be noticably faster.

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get the 9x7, you will have better results

i think that if you get a new prop,you will find that it stays in the water better.
you might want to hold off welding till after new prop.
if i remember correctly,on my old longtail,when it started kicking up,it was time
for another prop...as with all props, it doesnt take long in the sand.

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It really just depends on how much weight you are pushing.
That 9x6 will push a load/come out of the hole better and a 9x7 will be faster with lighter loads.

If you aren't like most duck hunters who have a heavy boat packed full of buddies and gear you can probly swing a 9x7

Rangerp: I also own a Dura Craft. I saw your post about the War Eagle grab bar. FYI, I sent War Eagle (made by the same family that made the Dura Craft boats) and asked about the grab bar. According to the sales guy, the War Eagle accessories do not fit our Dura Craft boats.

Too bad, they had some good stuff.

I think Mud Buddy has an after market grab bar.