So I am replacing all my seals, bearings, and ujoint on my 23hp mud buddy. So far it has not been too bad. I ordered all my parts from mud buddy and so far they all fit except the ujoint on the motor side. It's a 1 inch shaft and when I measure it then it appears to be the same diameter as the old one I took off. I can slide the old one back on and it fits snug, but easily slides on and off. I have sanded both surfaces to remove any grit that might be stuck to it. Has anyone had this problem?

Might sound stupid but check and make sure your key is fitting in the slot of the yoke, then make sure you back out the set screw/bolt on the side of the yoke.

Wouldn't be the first time I overlooked something stupid, but it doesn't fit with the key out or the set screw out. Is it possible that this is some metric size that is smaller but not by a measurable amount or something? I'm baffled.

Go to tractor supply co and get one, r just get a deburrer and grind the id out a bit. What shaft is it not fitting on? The shaft with the prop or the crank?

It's not fitting on the side with the crank. I guess I should have just gone to tractor supply in the first place. I was hoping that ordering it from mud buddy would keep me from having any fitting issues. Doubt mud buddy is going to let me return this one after I wire wheeled the inside of it. Maybe I will try to bore it out a little...Hate to waste $80 bucks.

key way is the same. I will try what you suggested. It won't even fit on at all....like, not even far enough for me to tap it with a mallet.

You have checked them with calipers? You could have a metric crank shaft, or a dud yoke?

It may be metric. I heard those were made in china...


27 PD FPR 16x36 skiff

If it won't go at all I would prolly buy another r call fuck buddy. U bore that much and u ain't got shit

De-burr the shaft. Sometimes they get a burr on them from the set screws and are hard to get started. If that doesn't work the u-joint (the x in the middle of the two yokes) is the same size as the old one take the whole assembly apart and re-use the yokes with the new u-joint. Good luck

You ought to be able to tell if the inside of the offending yoke is the correct size with a good caliper Inside yoke bores are generally nominal - spot on to .0005 larger than nominal. PTO shafts are a little minus say .00025 under to nominal. As you can see we are working with small clearances here. I have had a part out of the box occasionally that was not the correct dimension but it is findable with a good caliper.

Mark F. Cheney

If the keyway is correct size is probably not metric. Metric shaft keys are different. You just have a tight tolerance on the hub. Find someone with dial calipers and determine the difference. You should be able to clean up bore enough with emery cloth.
You can make a emery cloth holder out of a piece of 3/8 tubing with a slit. Slide emery into slit and use drill motor. You want a snug fit but do not hammer onto crank shaft, you will damage bearings on crank.

Finally got it to fit this evening. After measuring it with a caliper, it was 1/2mm off. Might not have been the best way to do it, but it's all I had that would work. I took a dremel tool with a sanding wheel and slowly reamed it out. I sanded, measured, sanded, measured......Finally, I opened it up enough so I could barely tap it onto the shaft. As olschool said...Don't hammer. Just tap.

**If anyone has this problem in the future, your time would probably be better spent either sending the U-joint back or just buying another one. I spent way too much time on this.**

Nice