I had my 23 hp long tail go-devil stolen last year during the split and wanting to replace with 35 hp long tail putting it on a 18'48" all weld mudboat just wondering if anyone has any experience with one.

P.S. don't care to own surface drive they don't fit in my lifestyle

I ride with a guy that has a Back Water Inc frame with a 33hp Generac on it. Not exactly what you're talking about, but very close. It's a VERY nice motor!

Run a 35 go devil long tail. Great motor no problems, but it will wear you out. Will be selling and getting a GTR in the next few years hopefully

I went from a 24 LT to a 35 LT in 05-06 and there was better load carrying and more speed. The torque was a huge step up from what I was used to. Honestly it wasn't for me and long runs through harsh terrain wore me out enough in one season that I sold it. Long runs in clean water were not an issue but that wasn't what I was running at the time.

Good motors just hold on and you'll be fine

I have a 35 HP SS Back Water Inc. Very easy to handle. I highly recommend them.

I run a 35 longtail on my 1648. I dont have any complaints about it. I dont have anything to compare it to though. I make some relatively long runs with it too. It runs about 22-23 loaded 3 guys and hunting gear. I run shallow hard bottom trails with lots of vegetation.

Thanks for input I was running a 23 vangard because I didn't require a battery to run ie-less likely to have to push pole fifteen miles home but needed to push a load better during gator season

I run a big marine starting battery. I also carry a back-up battery jump box. I have seen people carry a small lawn motor battery to start in emergencies as well.

I run a 35slt on a gatortrax 17x54 the SLT setup does not wear you out near as much as a trad LT

4 rivers, is that GT hull a short transom? If you're getting good results with that heavy 1754 hull, I figure the 1848 should run a bit quicker? For future reference, can you get spare parts (clutch, prop, bearings, etc.) from MudBuddy for the SLT, or who is providing parts for them? Regarding the BackH2O, are they providing replacement bearings, shafts, etc., because apart from props, their site does not list them nor does MB for the SLT. Frank, hoping you can chime in as well, because I will be in the market in a couple of seasons. Does either MB or BackH2O provide a repair manual for at least the parts I mentioned? For prop changeouts on the SLT, I believe they have a hex shaft so removing the prop should be easier without having to immobilize the shaft?? Frank, what about prop removal on the BackH2O? Do you immobilize the shaft on the upper yoke of the universal? I just did that on my MB 27 LT and it was easy, but I always clean the threads and apply anti-seize grease and do this a couple of times a season to avoid bad binding.

I have removed my prop by placing a large screwdriver in the yoke. I also replaced my own upper seals. I was used to greasing a Go-Devil every couple of hours so I eventually over greased my motor and blew out my upper seals. Took literally 15 min to replace from start to finish and was very simple and straight forward. Filled it back up with grease and now I won't touch it for 25-30 hours.

Good point, Frank! I received a written caution when I bought the MB LT, to avoid over-greasing because this could cause the seal rupture and bearing failure. So did BackH2O provide the replacement seals or did you find them somewhere else? My motor is a 2004 and knock on wood, it is still running great. I find that synthetic grease seems to work better than the more conventional graphite stuff. I would definitely like to hear about the SLT prop changeout and/or maintenance. I wonder how different MB's bearings are from BackH2O's? The old GoDevil leaked like a sieve for sure and my grease gun was always loaded and taken on any runs. Are there middle bearings on the BackH2O? I have no idea how you would changeout and refit that piece- I think GD made a middle bearing or still does?

I texted Jake on a Monday and had the new seals on Wednesday. The Back Water has no middle bushing or bearing. They didn't want and unnecessary "wear part" on their frame. GD does currently use a middle bushing to prevent driveshaft slap. The BW doesn't need one because its designed to use the actual grease in the driveshaft tube acts as a suspension agent. The grease itself prevents the driveshaft slap. The guys at BW have really thought of everything. If someone is buying a new longtail, they'd be crazy to not go with BW.

Absolutely! After all I've seen and read, BackH2O would be the best choice, based on design, performance, and price.
Loudog, the only decision is which model to buy: the LS 71" drive or the 59" SS. Is that 1848 allweld a tall or short transom? What does it weigh? I've been setting my sights on that configuration in an open hull, maybe .100 gauge. I don't really need the extra weight of 1/4" alum or even longitudinal stringers because apart from the hard bottom around here, there is little mud, no cypress to run through, no beaver dams (dam beavers maybe), and I have always had a short transom boat. Hope you get one and have fun!!

I realize the Back Water short shaft model is easier to handle, but how much speed/performance is lost because of it?

Both are just as easy to handle and both have the same performance when matched with the proper transom and dialed in properly.