Well I bit the bullet and bought myself a duck boat with a go devil longtail 23 on it. I'm ready to do some maintenance on it and I have a couple of ?s for y'all.

I called Go Devil to order seals and went ahead and orders an oil filter and spark plugs as well. Are these plugs they sent me pre gapped, or do I need to gap them? And if so what is the gap supposed to be on them?

Does somebody like K & N make an aftermarket air filter for these motors?

And this doesn't have to do with maintenance but is anyone running the swivel mount on these motors? I get freaked out bout these idiot Florida drivers putting my shaft through their window and also less stress on the transom.

Sorry if these are dumb questions y'all I'm new to the mud motor world.

In this HP range, most recommended plugs are .030". Give GoDevil the serial # (usually found on the motor plate below the U joint) and get the swivel mount. I do believe there is an after market K&N air filter that will work. I recommend putting synthetic oil and grease. If the stock air filter has a foam "pre-breather" around it, get rid of it. You can tweak the throttle advance to c 4400 rpm out of water to get a little more push/speed. Check the prop for wear, replace if necessary, get a spare quick! Make sure the kill switch works and wear the lanyard!
Whereabouts in Florida are you? Welcome to this forum, just like the mud rafts here, you have to steer around a lot of chit sometimes, but there is good info! I recommend becoming a member of United Waterfowlers of Florida (www.unitedwaterfowlersfl.org).
For the time being, tie a big old red flag to the prop end and get a light back there for nighttime trailering until you get the swivel deal. I just switched to LED's on my trailer, I agree the drivers here tailgate more than usual.

The plugs are probably not gapped. Just pick up a spark plug gap tool at the auto parts store ($2), you are also going to want to get some antisieze lubricant to put on the threads after you do your lower seals.

I second the motion on running a synthetic oil. I'm using Shell synthetic Rotella 5w-40. I use it in my truck so I usually have some around.
Be very careful about not overfilling with oil. Don't go above the full mark on the dipstick. The fuel pump works off crankcase vacuum, and with too much oil taking up crankcase space, it can't create the needed vacuum.

Good point, does that apply to the mechanical/hydraulic fuel pump only, or also for an electronic fuel pump? My Kohler 27's mechanical fuel pump I switched out after about four years because I got bad gas once and it messed up the carb as well- otherwise has been solid. A friend had a Honda 24 LT and he started with a mechanical pump but had to install an electronic fuel pump to provide the correct fuel rate (a few early Hondas had this issue). Good point about the anti-seize for the prop; I remove the prop 2x a year and clean the threads and apply that stuff, much less incidence of serious binding.