I recently got a homemade lt with 12hp honda that the prop was threaded on to shaft with no nut, washer, nothing behind it. Played hell getting the darn thing of.....I am in the middle of replacing southern engineered bushing and seals and wonder the correct order of nuts washers that go behind prop and infront of prop......New to the site and by far love the info....building my own custom 1236 converted into 1436 via big sponson on back with motor mount on sposon so all info is more than apperciated.....

nut on shaft first, then brass washer, prop, brass washer,nut, lock nut.

i also was wondering what came more recommened as far as bronze/brass bushings or double sealed needle bearings for the shaft to ride in....i am wanting to do this 100% best way i can because i have several friends wanting me to build them one and I would much rather be my own test dumby

thanks autogateman

go with a bronze sleeve bearing. they wear , but will not fail completely and put you in a bind, thats why go devil uses them.

Another seized mudmotor prop. I've never understood why American mudmotors have threaded props. Practically every propeller ever made for everything between a small outboard and an ocean going freighter uses a tapered shaft with a keyway. Why? So you can get the darn thing off with a gear puller when a little corrosion sets in. I've spent the past 21 years working out of a boat in the Gulf of Mexico, and have seen what saltwater corrosion can do. Not all of us mudmotor users are running in freshwater. For the life of me, I have never understood why the mudmotor manufacturers think it necessary to use a threaded prop, when the old tried-and-true tapered shaft design is far better. I guess the first one did it, and the rest followed.

It's easier to cut threads than splines. As far as a single keyway, I'm sure they have their reasons.

JP what grade stainless did you go with? Been considering making a stainless one and was wondering what stainless would perform the best.

thanks JP dont mind grunt work but I am tryin hard to only do it once maintance is way easier

If you are going with stainless, use 17-4 and then when they are done with welding it up, have them precipation harden it to H900

thanks for the info guys