Im currently putting together all the parts to build a longtail using a Honda GX 340 and I was wondering if someone could explain why some brand name longtails have Auto Lubicators while other dont? Go Devils have them Mud Buddies do not? Is it a nessessity?

Thanks Fellas

On your homebuild i would put an alemite lubricator. It will help keep that top bushing lubricated. If a seal goes out you will wish you had one when you are 5mi away from the ramp. Im not
sure why mudbuddy doesn't???? Maybe they are sealed.??? they are only $25

Blackduck, Thanks for the reply. Not to sound stupid but are you talking about a Zert fiting, a Visi-Lube Automatic Lubricator or something different. Since Alemite is the brand I wasnt sure. I planned on putting a zert on each bearing and it seems they should provide enough lubrication if you greased them up before use. One thing that seems wierd to me is on the models that have the auto lubricators they are located between the top and middle bearing. I dont see how this would not help the top bearing much. These models also appear to have zerts on all three of the bearings also. The cost of the auto lubricator or type that Go Devil uses is only about $45 for a quality one so the cost isnt an issue but I was just trying to wrap my head around the purpose.

Thanks again
RuckUp

When you are running, heat builds up in all the shaft components, including the grease. That causes expansion. When you shut down everything cools and contracts. If the lower seals are under water there is a chance of drawing in water and silt which can mix with the grease and cause wear on seals, bushings, bearings and shaft. The lubricator is spring loaded to keep pressure on the grease and keep water out. If or when the lower seals wear enough to allow grease to pass, it is very hard to tell you are losing grease because water flow washes it off. If there is a lubricator and you are losing grease the level in the lubricator drops and gives you an indication of bad seals.

X2 alaska, $25 on Mcmaster. Grease zerks should be above and below the center bushing, as well as on the upper and lower bushing.

Great explaination! Now things make since and thanks for the suggestion for the extra zerks above and below the center bushings. Im using the Mad Mud Motor Plans as a basic template but I have a few additional ideas to see if I can improve the build and add other personal touches. Im currently overseas so I cant start my build until Oct/Nov and if my improvements actually work I will definately post my build.

Anyone have any thoughts about an electric clutch for a Longtail? I have been kicking the idea around also but it may just be another thing that will break and leave me downstream without a motor!!! It sucks pulling your boat up stream..... not that I would know anything about that

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and advice.

RuckUp

Something to think about-I built my first longtail from the Mad plans and while they are a good starting point I would really think about replacing the top bushing with a bearing. On my second longtail I ended up spending an extra $100 and got a complete upper bearing housing from Beavertail and got a plumber buddy to thread the top end of the shaft for it, it's so much easier and smoother running than a bushing at the top end.

Pumpgunner
Thanks for the suggestion, since this is my first build I really appreciate any extra advice I can get. I have scoured past postings from various sites to incorporate lessons learned from other builders. I actually was looking at replacing the upper and lower ends with bearings but I never thought to get a pre made housing. Do you think a bearing is a good set up for the lower end also? A premade housing will definitely save me some fabrication time. It is good to hear that it worked and eliminated some unwanted vibration also.
Thanks
RuckUp

Pumpgunner
Thanks again for the tip I looked at the parts list and drawings today. I take it you still used the center bushing?

RuckUp

Ruckup, I have only used a bearing on the top end but I kind of agree with Godevil that it's not really necessary on the lower end. I know that some companies use them but I have had good luck with just the bushing at the bottom and center and a bearing on top. Your bottom end runs the coolest because it's in the water, it will be hottest on the top end and that's where the bearing comes in handy. Another thing to keep in mind that the Mad plans don't talk about is that if you're going to run a motor that's more than 10hp or so you will need some kind of thrust bearing, or all the forward thrust will go up the shaft and into your u-joint and motor which will put a lot of load on them. There are lots of ways to deal with this, do some searches and there's a lot of good info out there. Also, in the Mad plans they don't use a keyway at the top of the shaft going into the Ujoint, you will definitely want to either have a machine shop cut a keyway into your shaft for you or file one in yourself. If you don't key your ujoint to your shaft, even if you use a set screw or tack weld it, you are just waiting for it to fail, don't ask me how I know.

Pumpgunner, Good info, I would not have thought to use a thrust bearing. My motor is only 10 to 11 hp but since the bearings are nearly the same price I think I will go with a thrust bearing. I also agree with the key idea hopefully it will keep Murphy off my butt. Funny you should mention GD my original idea was to build directly off their tube design, after all they have been doing this for a long time. From your experience how long do the bronze bushings last? I was thinking bearings may last longer, but I guess since they are cheaper than bearings it wouldnt be too big of deal to replace them more often.
Thanks again for your advice, it is greatly appeciated.
RuckUp

Why not a centrifugal clutch on a motor that size?

kscoggins, I have thought about it... From what I see they use them on go carts all the time. I have also looked into the electric clutches similar what MB runs on their new Longtail. I think it would be a nice option but I may keep my first build simple. However I still have two months before I can start my build so the idea is still in the back of my head. The hardest part seems to be getting a clutch to match my shaft size and to match up to a pulley and then find the right size belt. I also looked at the CVT Clutches like in ATVs, Snow machines and such which may be the ticket but the size could be the downfall......

The easiest set up would be a centrifugal with chain drive but everything I have read on the various forums and seen on youtube chain drives are noisy and undependable

Ruckup, I have run the bronze bushings in my longtail for 2 years now and they are holding up fine. I spent a little extra (not much though) and got Oilite bronze bushings, they actually have oil impregnated in the bronze that helps lube when they get hot and that seems to help them last longer. They also are grooved to help grease get all around the shaft. Even if you eventually run your bushings out they are not a big deal to replace. A great place to check is Mcmaster.com, they have everything you need to build a longtail.

Pumpgunner
Thanks for the heads up on the Oilite bronze bushing's. I seen them on McMasters site and was thinking about useing them. Did you ever use or seen the Vibration Dampening bushing with neoprene rubber sandwiched between the steel shell? These looked interesting. I cant wait to get back and do this build:)
Thanks
RuckUp