I enlarged my cavitation plate from the mad mud motor plans to compensate for the larger prop. This is my first mud motor so im not sure if the angles look right?

The angle looks too steep?

Looks to steep

No.

Could anybody take some pics and measurements of how it should be? Its only tacked on so no big deal to take it off. Im running an 8x4 prop.

Looks good to me not like your running a 250 pro max haha

The angle looks ok to me. The tab on top needs to be bent up about .125 to .25 of an inch to keep prop from wanting to walk up out of water on you.

How far under the plate should the prop be? I could move the plate up a little in the front to make the angle less steep.

Parallel to your motor?

I read some place the cav, plate should be 1" above prop and skag should be 1" below prop.

get rid of that lip on the back edge.
Then again I run without a cav plate so not sure how much help I am.

Go to godevil.com and look at pics


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Ive looked at go devil and beavertail. I definatly need to take the back trim bend back out a lot. The angle doesnt look that bad off now that ive compared some. I may just tack a brace to it and run it to see how it does.

I'd buy one from BackH2O. They mount it with shims so you can adjust it to get the angle dialed in.

I have a similar problem . I have a Boghog with a 27 Kohler on a 16'10" Alumaweld job boat. The boat has a high (21" i think) transom. The prop wants to walk up out of the water on me. As a result I have to apply constant upward pressure on the handle. After a 30 minute run I am worn out. While it's great exercise, there has to be a fix, Which way should I bend the tabs on my cav plate?

to adjust you only bend your back tab and its bend down to raise the plate and up to lower it... think water flowing over the top pushing down and water underneath causing lift.

Swamp Donkey, the back tab has no bend in it at all. It's straight. only the two side tabs are bent down. Should I bend the back plate up? What's the best method for bending the steel?

crecent wrench, a little bit at a time

I would not bend it NO MORE than an 1/8" at a time. It doesn't take much to see results from small bends.

Thank you all for the answers. I did the bend with my trusty pipe wrench. Hopefully it works, it would be more fun to ride if it does.

I bent it and it does ride quite a bit better. I no longer have to constantly pull up on the handle to keep the prop in the water, but I also don't think the prop is running at the optimum depth. I think it runs a tad deep. I also have a hard time steering, especially in curvy sections of the river. My boat has ribs from bow to stern. and I think the side planers on the plate are over stabilizing the boat. Should I bend them as well?

I would be interested to know your speeds. I am having the same prob. with a 16hp I built. It is on a 15/42 alumaweld, has the ribs on bottom. My motor was running deep the same way, I bent the tab and it doesn't ride deep anymore, but my gps speed with 2 people (340 lbs total) and no gear is topping out at 7. Yes I said seven, tach showing 3300. I think that is way slow, but I'm no pro.

With a crescent wrench at the rear of the plate slide it on the edge about 1/2 inch or so
you want to bend it up if your prop tries to pop out of the water and bend it down if your prop is running to deep. You want the cav. Plate to ride about a inch below the water when running wide open. As far as turning goes. On long wide turns shift your body towards the direction you want to turn. While letting the tiller handle ride pretty much straight. Easier on your back. On tight turns slow down, way down or there's a pretty good chance you'll end up swimming sooner or later. Try turning first with only half a prop in the water with little or no throttle. You'll get the hang of it pretty quick. But no long tails do not make very good high speed tight turns. Especially with a ribbed boat. Good luck