This my first mud motor . Not a hunter but a fisherman. Because of the droughts over the last few years in southern Oklahoma , has made it very hard to get in the rivers and a lot of the lakes now, Don't have the $ for a air boat so the mud motor was next .After loosening a low unit on a newer outboard , it was time to do some thing, so on a tight budget. This is what I came up with for 1500.00 Boat , motor, trail , fish finder ,gas tank , battery, 3 seats ,ores , life jackets , new prop.
I will mainly donning very shallow water with sand in the river some mud in the lakes would
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Lowes 16' / 48" Is this motor ok for this rig , also have a new tiger 9x7 prop that come with it. would this be the right prop for it ? Have been reading up on the cavitation plate adjustments .
27 HP Kawasaki with 84" shaft 2002 on tag on cleaner in good running shape (Mud Buddy)
Would this just a 84" long tail ?
Transom is 16" and they have put a 4" spacer under motor to make a 20" transom just under the motor, is this this ok ? [img]DSCF3005.JPG[/img]
It is a metal spacer . Brace from transom to bottom of boat on each side of motor.
And is there a better throttle lever then the old lawnmower cable,
would like one that I could work with one hand willy steering .

Just want to say thanks to any help I get here. Have been reading for a few days, looks like it might be more to it then I thought. Sorry for all the questions , just trying to do it right. Don't have the $ to keep doing it over, will be doing 4 to 10 mile runs up the river , so trying to get it right.
Thanks again
Goose

Looks like they built up the transom, at least it looks to be welded, to compensate for having a tall transom longtail (84"). Every thing looks alright from here you can switch out the throttle for a a clutch lever style like on a bike, pretty easy conversion just may need a stiffer return spring to bring it back down to idle from full throttle. Only way to tell on how it performs with the boat is to run it and see what kind of speeds and RPMS you can generate from the combonation with the load you plan on running with it. If you can report back with some of this info its a little easier to help you dial in your rig or steer you in the right direction if it is underperforming. Make sure you wear that killswitch and life jacket, the longtails have a tendency to get a little squirrely if you arent used to running em.

Thanks for the replied , For got to ask about the rpms , out of the water it is about 3000- 3100 rpms
thought this was a little low, Will take it out in a day or 2 when weather clears to see what it is doing under a load.
Is this what is left of a kill switch ?
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Thanks for the help!

See what it does on the water should be somewhere around 3200-3600 but see what it does under a load. Yes on the kill switch, the plastic piece on your killswitch lanyard will push in between the grey and black pieces on that kill switch, it looks like it will do and if you feel like getting a new one they are $15 or so at the napa store. Looks like you are missing a wire (most killswitches have 2), should be two wires running to that killswitch, one to the mag and the other one grounded out. If it starts and runs without the lanyard attached your killswitch wont do squat while underway

Thats a nice set up.
Got to love a long tail to get to the hard to reach fishing spots.

Kill switch is a must with a longtail.no telling when you hit a stump and it throws the tiller handle out your hand.

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Thanks all for the help will try and get it done by the weekend and do some more testing ! Thanks again !!

Got the kill switch on to day before I wire it have a question , it has only one wire to it and it runs off in to a wire loom, is there a way to check and see if this is the hot wire ? then ground the other side is this correct ?
I noticed a thumb screw about 3/4 the way up the shaft from the bottom and part of a sticker , best I can make out grease sert on top by prop fill till it comes out thumb screw hole , how offend do ya do this ? and is this right ? Thanks for any help