I am wigander from NW WI and am new here and I am going to build a longshaft. Before anyone says anything yes I am a fabricator, welder and not stupid (well maybe a little). I have the whole design thought out and planed to a tee. Except the upper bearing ass. I though this would be a great project for my son and I to do to get him acclimated to the shop tools. To start I am running a 18 horse briggs boxer out of the lawn mower puller that was hoped to about 22hp. The frame is a tube frame supporting the drive ass. with bushings at the bottom, bushings at the middle, one at the top and then of course a u-joint. My question in order to handle load at the upper end a roller bearing needs to be used so how in the hell does that assembly work? Am I over thinking it because the race goes into a seat then the bearing. How does one keep the bearing from walking out of the race? Is there some sort of cup assembly I could make that hold everything in place or can I use a flange bearing to do the same thing?


I look forward to all of your help and yes as soon as we start I will post all the pics and part list.

When I built my 14 hp LT I just went to BLAIN FARM AND FLEET and bought a pillow block housing and bearing that locked to the shaft. I would suggest not putting a bushing in the very upper part of the shaft housing since they tend to go out if any misalignment with the bearing does occur. As well its really just not needed IMO. To align my bearing I just slipped it onto the shaft (once the the outter shaft is welded into place and bushing inserted), bolted a plate to the bottom of the block, then welded the supports that hold the pillow block in place. This ensures no spacers are need and has worked flawlessly for me so far. P.S. I am not a professional fabricator and this is my second MM LT build I have done.... It is not rocket science. Hope this helps.

Fellow Cheese Head, Check out the Beavertail page, they sell a complete upper bearing assy for $100. I ordered one online and picked it up at the shop as I was passing through. Make sure you ask for the tube adapter it will also make things easier. They are pretty good folks and will help you out.

RuckUp

Wigander,
I am trying to come up with the same. I am thinking of turning out a couple cup assemblies to hold a tapered bearing on each end, and just use a bushing in the middle. This is the idea for the bottom end, (not to scale) and the top would be the same, except the collar that rides against the inner race would be pinned in place. Not sure if I am on the right track, but it seems like a tapered roller would take care of any thrust issues.
Jim