Okay I have tried everything I think I have an 18hp vanguard longtail I've got the first 2 nuts off and I'm trying to get the prop off I have tried a big pipe wrench I have tried heating it to where it's red hot an then twisting I have barely got this think moved a half inch in 2 hours any advice on this?

Prop removal tool. A piece of bar with a hole drilled in it. Can use a cheater pipe on it for leverage. Do some searching of the forum, or Google it.

Lots of PB Blaster Penetrating oil....and marine grade Never Seize when you put the next one on.

I've used a big ass pipe wrench and a shop towel to keep the teeth from tearing up the prop but if you don't get it on there just right it'll slip and that hurts


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HEAT the prop up.

I tried everything I had, ended up trying to take it to the dealer, watched him try all the same things I did....didn't work. He ended up having to heat up the prop and then use the prop removal tool with a breaker bar extension. He was worried we were going to break the shaft.....well the prop came off without breaking the shaft! Just needed some heat. Next problem is got it home started it up and the heat blew my lower seals as it slings grease all over now. Anyone have any idea how hard it is to replace those seals? Figuring since I just put a new prop and nuts ect on that part should be easy to remove.

Call go devil tomorrow and get instructions. They'll be happy to help

You can download the owners manual directly from go devils website. It walks you through prop removal and seal replacement.

http://godevil.com/wp-content/uploads/2 ... Manual.pdf

Ive done the heating thing amd contacted go devil and have the manual but none of it works I'll try soaking the pb blaster thing an try agian and seals are easy thts wht I'm replacing now

Wow heating isn't working?! After you are heating what are you using to try and spin the prop off with? Do you have the removal tool?

you need a 5' cheater bar. I liked using a 5' crow bar on a prodrive prop, the bent end will wrap around the blade just right, I had to put a piece of pipe on top of the crow bar one time and thought I was going to lift the trailer tire but it came off. More leverage is where it's at.

I'm putting a big pipe wrench on it with about a 3 1/2 to 4 foot cheater pipe

Be careful torching it you can ruin the seals. My 16 never needed torching. Find something narrow about a foot long to wedge through the middle of the u joint for leverage. Don't use a screw driver it will snap in half. I always used a long narrow socket wrench wedged it through the middle of the u joint coming out of the back of the motor. Took a 18" pipe wrench for the prop and it would pop right off. It takes some elbow grease. You'll know when it pops loose

Get the right tool for the job. I fought with a prop once and said never again. Bought the right tool and never looked back.

I'm replacing the seals anyway and I'm using a 3ft pipe wrench with 2 people on it with a 3 foot cheater pipe and its moved half an inch in 2 hours, I'm gonna try the crowbar and 5 foot cheater pipe

The flatbar with the hole drilled in one end will work better.

Well I finally got it off with soaking it in free all penetrating oil and then heating with a big rosebud until it melted the washers off then put this contraption I threw together on it with a 4 foot cheater pipe attached to the end it finally gave way

Wire brush those old rusty threads, clean them before putting new props on , never seize is your friend, take props off often and re never seize. You might want to check seals down there , sounds like you got it pretty hot.

H Finn

I was changing the seals anyway that's why it didn't bother me to heat it up to get it off