Hello everyone. Im currently working on a prototype LT that I would like to put into production. I have my own ideas but I need your help. This is intended to be a working mans engine. Easy to work on with a price point around $1600 new with a warranty. It will be powered by a 15hp electric start lifan. Standard features include....360 pivot, adjustable motor mount, set back transom, adjustable tilt stop, length adjustable rubber isolated handle that can be mounted either left or right of the engine, all stainless hardware and adjustable cavitation plate. Im sure i have left out something but I will have to get to that in a later post. I havent owned every mud motor built but I know with all the people on here we should be able to cover most of the likes and dislikes. I have my own ideas on how things should be done but I would really like to have your input. Every post can make a difference. Heres where you come in. Please let me know what you think about any or all of the following.
1. bearings or bushings?
2. grease or oil?
3. seals. how many top and bottom?
4. prop manufacturer?
5. driveshaft. steel, stainless, or plated?
6. throttle type?
7. anything you would like to see added or feel i have forgotten

I would like to take this opportunity to Thank You for viewing this post. I look forward to hearing your suggestions

So, your building a motor and all you know is what the bells and whistles will be?

Personally, I would do taper bearings, a seal top and bottom, grease filled shaft, you figure out props and shafts, and a brake lever style throttle.

If you want to sell you should also bring some new features.

You also need to talk to TonyB about a sponsorship.

Thanks for the reply and for your suggestions. I do know alittle more than just the bells and whistles. I posted this to gain the opinions of others on certain areas. My design calls for a stainless prop shaft, grease filled tube with 3 zerks, 3 seals on the bottom, 2 on top, backwater prop, common bearings and seals available from any local parts house, etc. On previous motors I have used an atv style throttle which seemed to work best for me but I know some people dont like them. I had planned a lever throttle for this as most people are used to them and they are very cost effective at around $22. I have used taper bearings with great success on many things and I think its an excellent idea for this application as well. Im not looking for measurements or the like, only opinions. For example the statement "I have used props from Brand A and brand B. Brand B works better." If I get 10 replies and 8 of them say the same thing im highly likely to make "Brand B" the standard prop. Im sure once this motor is completed and Tested I will find something I want to change or a feature I would like to add. If you or anyone else have ideas about features you would like to see on a LT I would love to hear them. It can be any idea no matter how large or small. Thanks again and keep the ideas coming.

i think you can do this motor but you havent listed anything thats not already offered. so at this point you need to sell us on why to buy your motor. but this might not be ok with out talking to some one like tonyb i dont know those fine lines in this forum or on mmt as fare as manu. trying to sell without being a sponser

I don't gather he is trying to sell anything at thist point. And motor maunfactuers are not allow to be sponsors here anyway according to TonyB. So Id assume that would make it ok for him to post what he has.

If your not going to offer anything different than what is already out there then your only selling point will be price, IMO.

need an engineer? haha

if it shows good quality and at that price you wouldnt need any new fetures for it to sell. customer service is a big one also.

Thanks for the responses. Im not trying to sell anything at this point. The only purpose of this was to gain popular opinion on what design features you would like to see. Mud motors are few and far between here in central FL. Most people tend to have traditional outboards due their prevalence in the used market. I find ads in the papers and online everyday from people wanting to buy a mud motor. The problem is that most people cant afford a new one and a VERY used one costs about $1200 if you can find it. At $1600 new im sure this motor does not have to clean your fish and bring you beer in order for it to sell. With that being said, I do want it to have as many well thought out and useful features as possible. We have 2 engineers already. Im not asking for instructions on how to build a motor. Even if nobody contributed any advice this motor will still be built. All im trying to gain is popular opinion. In your experience what has worked best for you?

JUST TO REITERATE>>>>>THIS IS NOT AN ADVERTISEMENT,,, I AM NOT USING THIS THREAD TO SELL ANYTHING

As mentioned earlier, MMT does not allow manufactures to advertise. This keeps the site fair and non bias.

Posting a thread about gathering input is fine, as long as we're not mentioning a brand name or any other info like company name, address phone etc.

galvanized frame for the saltwater. A pull start option would be nice, because at some point you will need it. You can actually pull start my 25 gdlt even though the engine doesn't have a pull start. Build a bigger motor. 15 HP would be too small for me.

Thanks for the reply. This engine will include a manual starter. Galvanizing is a good idea as well. Is there anything about the design of your motor that you would change? Anything you wish the manufacturer would have done different?

The reason I am using the 15hp for this first run is due to the cost. If everything goes as planned I do fully intend to offer larger engines down the line.

I would much prefer a carbon steel or plated shaft to a stainless one. When you have a stainless prop on a stainless shaft there is too much of a chance of thread galling. In the case of galling it leads to seizing - the actual freezing together of the threads and then the only answer is the hack saw to the shaft. The end results you loose the shaft and prop.
I worked in an industry many years ago that had a lot acid in the process and we had to use stainless bolts and nuts. There was many times that we had to use the hack saw because of galling.

Cardboard frame, glass shaft, and a rubber prop. Seriously though, how many time is the wheel gonna get reinvented?

Just my opinion, but I think you'd find a more innovative market to move around in with surface drives, rather than getting started in something that most people have already moved up from.

You get easier mud performance, more speed per hp, and greater operator comfort out of a surface drive, so there lies the future of shallow water running. Not sure why you'd revert back to longtails, that's like offering a superior breed of horse for your daily commute to work.


That being said, I think all the features you have mentioned are great, it just may be a little too late. Longtails have become somewhat of a minority market.

I have to agree with everyone else, one of the very few reasons a longtail still sells is for people with a lack of money for a surface drive or just getting into the mm game.

If you can offer something extra than what everybody else does at a more competitive price is the only way you will beable to compete with a established company.

you want to build something, design a surface drive that doesnt weigh as much as a small block chevy engine and cost 250.00 per hp Ill put my order in right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pressuirzed grease certs are legit. I took the stock throttle off of my GDLT and replaced it with a bicycle brake lever, works really well, something like that would be nice. I think brass bushing would probably be best and may last longer.

...And definitely build it to where the frame will swivel into the boat for trailering. You wont have to worry so much about jerk off behind you screwing your frame or prop up if he reearends you.

As a florida boy myself he right on with the longtail , most of are waters are hard bottom , put some shocks on it , my old longtail wanted to pull my arm off so it could beat me with it.