I have a tracker 1648 with the SWOMP 35 SS. It pushes the boat pretty good until I hit the throttle. The prop will pop out of the water if I don't pull up on the handle to keep it down when I run at higher RPM's, but that's more work than I am interested in. I am going to cut 4 inches out of the transom (hopefully tonight) and I hope that helps. Anything else I should look at. I only have about 2 hours on it running in heavy weeks, deep water and the river so the prop is pretty much new.

Sounds like you need to bend the trailing edge a bit on your cav plate bend it a little run it and adjust as necessary a little bend goes a long way too. Also I'd call who you bought it from and find out the ideal transom height and angle for your motor before you go cutting on it

The 35ss is for a 16 inch transom if tou are cutting the transom down that should fix it all. And DONT bend the cav plate u should have received a set of shims when u got the motor those are the cav plate shims

I wouldnt be to quick to cut the transom.You need to get the right motor for your boat.They should work with you if ya only have 2 hours on it.Call your dealer and get the right motor.

I got the motor direct from BackH20 and they told me to get the SS because the Tracker has a dead rise all the way to the back and the SS gets the prop in front of the vee where the wake comes back together. I have not tried the adjusting the shims yet, but the transom is cut (or think it was last night). The boat isn't worth much so I am not to worried about cutting into it. BackH20 told me the motor would be ok (and it is) on the 20 but they also said it would be allot better on a 16. It will reduce the angle and get the handle lower so its easier to run.

On the cav plate, should the trailing edge go up or down if it comes unstuck at higher RPM's. I was thinking up to increase the bite, but the way the BackH20 guys explained it, the plate actually creates a vacuum that holds it on the surface so my intuition on it may be backwards.

Pretty sure the back still goes up with the shims. I have there cav. Plate haven't had time to cut mine off and install it.

So how much is the BackH20 cavitation plate assembly?

Put the shim on. That will fix it.

Like 120 i think.

I skipped messing with the cav plate until after I cut the transom. I took 4 in out of the transom and removed one of the shims and it works great now. The dead rise on the boat is still an issue as weight distribution is critical. Now that I have some run time on it I can just shift my weight around to keep it straight or to assist in turning. I will run it the rest of the season as is and see about a flat bottom for next year.

So when your running can you let go of the Handel and it still goes straight?

Cool make sure you do the extra bolt thru the transom

Its definately the cav plate. You need to shim it!!! and DON"T bend it!!! I had my Beavertail mud motor up to there shop back in August to have a new prop,shaft,bearings and there cav plate installed. All i can say is WOW!! What a difference it made. I gained approximatley 4+ mph. I don't fight the motor anymore and I can let it go and it stays straight and does't move much (proper weight distribution helps too). I am very pleased with there customer service too. My next motor will definately be from Backwater. I am half way through duck season here and everything is solid.

Back Water,