That explains a lot of things.

STT ask if someone can clean his carb!


Sent from da woods!

I had carb trouble twice in 2 weeks so I'm done EFI here I come!


Sent from da woods!

Why not put the EFI on the stage 2?

looks pretty basic - according to PD it will function like your vehicles ECU, compensating for different engine scenarios - good or bad

Who is the manufacture of the kit, is it straight from briggs or a side company like ecotron like the one Stu used?

you mean who is compiling the kits? - components manufactured by Delphi, Bosch, and Kehin, I just cant wait to get off the waiting for motor list to waiting for EFI kit list

maybe STT can answer this one...What is the ideal A/F ratio for a briggs 35

Yes, but like you said, it will not adjust itself to accomodate for load and weather changes. I try to tune them a little fat with a load on a hot day and leave it like that year round. Then it wont be way too lean on a cold day with a heavy hunt load. You could optimize it for season changes if you wanted but our weather swings down here are way too fucked up. If you tried to keep it perfect all the time, you'd be changing shit multiple times a day during duck season.

Biggest thing you're trying to do is make a smooth transition off the needle. It's very hard to feel it, but you can go from way fat to way lean in just a couple hundred rpm's on a carb that seems to run great. It's really hard to know this without a lil help.

I would base this off of a premium fuel 91 to 93 octane. My assumption would be that the efi is programmed to maintain a A/F ratio within a certain range. So there must be a ratio at which more power is produced since STT claims he has dyno numbers.

I use the lambda setting on my meter. Its like a standard for pump gas. I don't remember the real ratio off the top of my head

14.7 is the afr the lambda setting is based off of. On my meter a reading of 1 would equal an afr of 14.7. Over 1 is lean, under is rich. I shoot for .85 on a hot day with a load.

thanks for the info CB

So to be safe the actual A/F ratio should be less than 12.5 to keep the engine from knocking

Most of the reading i've done goes off of the fuel not the engine. Would not mind doing some reading on different engine types though if you know of any helpful links.

You read instructions?

You will too! actually, i bothered gary several times before i read mine, thouroughly at least.

I only read instructions after I put something together and still have multiple peices left when im done:lol:

Correct.

I think it's an art to put something together without all the pieces and it still work:grin:

This thread is really starting to shed some light on what caused the epidemic of blown up briggs and stratton lawnmower engines on mudmotors.