The whole idea of getting a custom built boat is to get what you ask for. Even if this setup did work as intended, if the customer didn't ask for it, it shouldn't be on the boat. Bad deal for sure.

This is why I try not to re-engineer the wheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It takes a special kind of stupid to think you can run on a pad with zero deadrise in the hull. You'd have to put a 200hp outboard on that and run at 70+ mph to outrun the water coming over that little ~2" rise. Also, god help the man that ever tried to turn that on mud. Looks like it'd be on rails going straight.

One thing that I always thought would work and wanted to try was a reverse chine combined with a round chine, and run it all the way up to the beginning of the rake. Kinda like the Reaction chine except carried to the transom and a little higher. Still get a flat bottom on mud that'll stay loose, get extra lift, knock down spray, and would give the hull strong bite in a turn. Only concern would be hanging it up if you slid sideways off a cyprus knee or something like that. Probably be impossible to brake into the hull, be easier to just weld it on after the hull was laid up. IDK if it's been tried, but it's just a thought.

I knew this was a BUST from day one... People would call me and ask for this shit... But, I would tell them that they would need to be pushing 200+hp to get the boat on a "pad". The alum. Bay boats we make have pads, and you don't actually ride on it until your going 55+ MPH.

Wow, what a splendid idea!

You know you already called brother and told him this is a must have on the new rig!

That's a lot of grinding!!!

You'd have to think this "builder" looks at the forum. Wonder why he hasn't showed up to defend his design...
I've heard they call him the magic arm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I his name on here "third times a charm"

memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=7721

Look like he went out his way to F that boat up

I have one and I like it! I don't run mud so I cant speak on how it would do in LA. I have to turn hard and like to stay flat when I do. I'm real happy with the design. I live on a 28000 acre lake the is average 4' deep and gets choppy as hell and this hull handles it better than I expected. I went with him because I was looking for something besides a flat bottom that would do well with a mud motor. I turn hard up switchback creeks and jump over a rock spillway and the bottom is tough as hell, no dents.

It would turn the same with approximately 1/4 of what's welded to that bottom

Damn! I saw one of his boats a year ago at Jason's house thing had some serious waves down the side of it

LMAO got eeeemmmm

I went visit him to look at a boat. He tried like hell to talk me into doin that and that Transom nightmare and then 12k for the rig. No thaks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

First the hunt deck, then the fish tail, now the shovel transom!

All these innovative designs and the bow rope storage market is still wide open.

Not to mention spud pole organization

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

There are custom builders and then there are "backyard" builders. Which type do you think engineered this configuration? I can tell you from an engineering stand point the math for this type of hull does not add up, way to much drag surface for anything less then a 90+ hp motor and I can tell you this, running that design with and outboard over 40 mph will get someone KILLED!!!

Any of the better builders on here NEVER sell a first design to anyone without proper engineering, prototyping and then testing, testing and more testing themselves before ever even showing it much less selling it to someone.

We at Phowler are all about new ideas and innovation, but never without studying, engineering, building, testing and running them ourselves first. There are alot of "cool" bends, designs and option out there that are meant to produce "sales" not performance.

We are allows support new builders, they keep our industry growing, but what good is it to get a new boat, even if it is a great boat from a builder who may or may not be around to back up their product a few years down the road? The ones who make it long term do so for a reason, they build quality hulls that perform and last when used as intended and they stand behind their work.

PW

Paul,
I think it would take more than a 90hp to get it on that pad. But, i understand what you are saying. I said the same thing from day one when i seen this.

What's gonna kill someone running that design 40mph? Just wondering


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

when it falls off that pad. Though, in my experience of running true padded bottom boats, they don't get on the pad until 60+MPH. Then, you have to actually drive the boat to keep it on the pad.

correct.

Noon lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Here is the deal, I think I have explained this before, but I will try again.

Something scary happens to any flatboat hull at about 38-45mph, the air under the hull cannot escape fast enough and it "dams" up under the hull creating an unstable "bubble" of air the boat is riding on, any turns at those speed can send the boat skipping across the water uncontrollably as that air finally exits one side, pushing it up and drops the chine of the opposite side into the water. Now there are alot of factors and designs out there that minimize this, like the flat runners we recommend on our boats when guys want to run over 40 mph with them, they slow down that air escaping in turns and send some out the rear to minimize the chine "digging" into the water to fast or skipping across the water. You ask, why this does not happen with V hulls or true step pad hulls? Simple, as a V hull planes it creates a wedged shaped contact patch the send air and water out the sides of the hull and as the boat leans in a turn it has a large flat contact patch to land on. The down side, without the "bubble" of air under the hull lifting it at lower speeds they do not plane with lower hp engines very well (like with mudmotors). True step pad hulls like bass boats decrease and narrow the contact patch at each "step" as speed increases and that sends most of the air out the rear making a more stable ride at high speeds, but also create larger contact patches as the boat leans into a turn so the chines don't "dive or dig into the corners to aggressively.

This design does none of these things, if you can get it on pad it will still trap air as the steps are just basically flat pads, no v angle to the hull to lift the outside one out of the water, so water will still block much of the little air that might want to exit the rear of the hull and in a high speed turn on pad it is going to jump around like a PBR top 10 bull IMHO.

The above explanation is a greatly over simplified version of the actual physics and aerodynamics involved, but hopefully it helps folks understand just how unstable this design is.

PW