I've researched it with no luck. How can you tell what generation your prodrive is? I believe I have a second gen but would like to know for sure.

Ok my cave plate definitely looks different than the new units. I bought it used and couldnt remember what year the guy said. It was either 12 or 13. Thanks for thelp!

Post a picture.
Pretty easy to tell

Screenshot_2016-04-10-21-59-31.png can you tell from this? I know it's a shitty pic but it's all I have for the moment.

You have a gen 2.


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Thanks!

Now, there are 2 different types of gen 2 lowers. Oil filled, which I have. And grease filled. Easy way to find out is see if you have a grease zert on top of the lower outdrive facing up. If you do, then you have a grease filled lower. Or remove the allen head bolt on the bottom end near the prop and see if oil comes out. reason I asy this, is because the prop nut seals orientation is different depending on which one you have. If the seals every go out, they'll have to go back different depending on which one you have.

I have the grease filled lower, ive been doing all the maintenance for the past year ive owned it. The only reason I asked which gen I have is because I just modded the motor and don't think I'm running the proper speeds. I think it's a rpm problem though.

What are you running? Hull? Hooks? Lots of things will effect rpms, not just the motor issues.

17x48 prodrive boat. No major hooks. Stock the highest rpm I could turn with a new prop before trimming to high was 3700 with a worn prop it was about 3820-3850. I never really gave concern to it bease it ran fin wit a fishing load. After loading the boat heavy almost every day this duck season I was no longer satisfied. (I bought this motor after season of last year). Anyways I added heads and cam to it. When I took it out the highest rpm I ran was 3900. So I did some research and found threads about the stock govenor spring becoming wore out. My govenor spring is loose while the engine is idling so I ordered a new govenor spring (brown color). I'm out of town at the moment so I haven't been able to put the new one on to see if it's a difference. But from what I have read I should be turning around 4400-4600 rpm.

You added heads and cam, but with a stock carb, im prettys ure your rpms will be limited.
Also, you are limited to 4300 rpms if you don't have the high rev coils, which you probably don't.

When I built my new hull, I had heads, carb exhaust. As I added a component, I tested again to see what the gains were. An old thread.

So when adding heads and cam you gain no rpms? Also are people exaggerating when they say their stock rig turns 4400 rpm?

Banded you had that thing moving!

You will gain some rpms. I was if I remember about 4600. When I added the mikuni, it would spin to the moon if I let it. I wasn't looking for speed, I was looking for more load carrying capacity. Typical hunt for me is 5 doz deks, me, the 2 boys and an ice chest full of shit to eat and drink with 14 gallons of fuel up front. The byproduct of all the power was the top end speed.

Carrying a load is the reason I did my mods. My hunt load is me 300# wife 160# friend 320# dog 70# 4 dozen decoys and all the blind bags and such. We hunt flooded timber so we tend to carry a lot. I was running 27 with a worn prop at the 3900 rpm. I was just expecting to see a higher rpm. I will be purchasing a new prop soon also, so I'm sure that will help also.

Well if you ever want to tote an elephant, get a Kawasaki and make it a stage 2. 4 people, 5 doz deks, all our hunting shit, 14 gallons of fuel, icechest full of food and drinks to hunt all day, ran 33.9 down river and 32.8 up river for 16 miles straight at 4950 rpms turning a 14 pitch prop. Stock PD is 12 to 12.5

I've read about how well yall's kawi do. I've been thiking about the two in the for sale section but with a baby coming in July and work being hit or miss, I cant convince myself to buy and mod one out. If my powerhead ever foes then it will definitely be replaced with a kawi.

I saw those also. The DFI will be rpm regulated and I'm not sure how much to convert to carb.
I did my own port work - Free
head decked .050" - $50 for both
cam was from isky cams - $242
Carb adapter was a jeep adapter from summit - $11 (Later had a billet one made from a friend)
HSR42 from ebay with all the jets and seats - bout $300 if I remember
Throttle cable - $5 (bike brake cables from walmart)

Are the the heads on the kawi seated better where you don't have to have a valve job done?

To be honest, I don't think any of us have had a valve job. I could be wrong. Lee (Bug) has had prob the most hours on one so far. Now, the only thing I have done is back cut the valves themselves. Did that myself also to aid flow. Lee may be able to chime in on the valve job though.

Will any of yall be at the caddo lake fun run?

Not me, I'm so consumed with the kids and baseball right now, I haven't run mine in about a month. That coupled with several plant expansions we have to monitor, I'm swamped.

Lees is in Florida, probably has over 300 hours on his and no valve issues. He's MIA this morning but I'm sure he'll chime in later.