How the heck is you and the Mud Vipers doin' ???????

Not good as of now had problems with the flywheel shearing keys, but finally got that wiped by making the crankshaft tapered and was working ok, still could not keep the clutch together more than about 3 hours would crack at the drive basket, so as I figured the electric clutch was the weak link, so I machined a stronger internal clutch basket, and got about 4-5 hours out of her, then I started going up on prop pitch to turn down rpm's still in the 5G"S had a three blade brought to as much pitch as possible and add as much cup as possible. Thats when the fun began, ran it taking it easy at first and thought I had it fixed. Thats when I decided to nail her from dead stop it don't slip anymore (prop) and boom she broke the crankshaft clean off the back of the motor and thats with a 50 rockweel hardened shaft. Now, I am back to square one with a new idea, I am in the process of making a complete FNR gearbox that stabs right over the original crank which is larger in diameter with no electric clutch or planetary or 12 diameter flywheel and puts the belt drive closer to the engine. This was my first thought in the beginning but I wanted to see if the traditional way would work, first. I know the original clutch and planetary will work on most GT's but the harley is producing as least two-three times the original torque of those motors and reducing the crank down to 1 1/8 to use the original clutch and having that much lenght to the shaft gave the drive to much leverage. Found some Mercury 150hp lower unit gears
That I am using as a pattern but I have to cut new gears because outboard gears are beveled. Trying to make it done by CADDO but running out of time. Will keep posted!!

Marty

marty, i am totally amazed... totally!
your doing what most of us can only dream!
let me know when u'r hiring

i'm sure you'll get her figured out. thanks for keepin' us informed.

what..................no hand drawn cad schematic???

WOW !!!! This is gittin' very interestin' !!!!

Thanks fo the up-date and sho-nuff keep us posted.

Well, we need someth'n to keep up with...we ain't seen any more crayolas out of HOPP's "project x" and B.M. seems to be suffer'n from writer's cramp...(sigh)
Woody

So its a manual gearbox for Forward, Neutral, and reverse like your typical outboard you ar saying?

thats what I am trying for FNR manual shift

nope just build shit for fun, I design electronic circuit boards for work, got my first patent about 10 years ago for designing a universal piece of electronics that adapts itself to any existing Fog Horn in the oil and gas field that was made by any Manufacture, went on from there to build complete Fog horns, that was smaller and lighter than anything being manufactured today, and it took so well that we are starting to use them for early warning systems for tsnami's and College campus's. Now its time relax play a little and raise kids.

Gots a technical question? Im looking up how that gearbox works. Im not to familiar with the typical outbard. I assume the shifting takes place in the lower unit? so you would be using a LU gearbox or am i missing something? Does the shifting take place before the LU?

The way i understand it is the shifting takes place in the lower unit. There is a clutchdog in between the two gears that shifts between them to engage either gear... again, thats just my understanding. Iv only dealt with the lower unit on our old 25 johnson. had to replace the clutchdog because it wouldnt stay in gear and kept jumpin out...

Ok thanks imma look at the google.

how bout a little video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuAcrDFvApA

scetch while waiting at the airport;

As I am looking at the drawing I see the engine crank will be spinning the input shaft of the housing. Now after looking at that video your typical outboard is a vertical drive that spins the pinion gear which in turn spins the standard cut gear for forward and the reverse cut gear for reverse. Being you are using a Horizontal the pinion head will just bascially be an idler gear to contol the spinning of the reverse and forward ring gears. The clutch dog will control the output shaft rotation direction. The shafts will have to ride on bearings like a transfer case IMO being able to free wheel while in neutral and the god will just engage the rotation direction if i am looking correctly

Max,

You just about got it but there will be no vertical gear because something has to be permently locked into the crankshaft which is the left gear then there will be straight cut gears with a intermediate shaft above for reverse but when in forward the left gear is directly engaged thru the dog straight to the output shaft there will be a gear on the right that is mounted on a bearing riding on the output shaft so when the dog goes to the rear or right as in the picture, and since it turns opposite of the front there is your reverse, the only problem is the gear ratio may be different for reverse. Forward will be 1 to 1 ratio but reverse will be different I am trying to gear up reverse since reverse of the prop has slippage this is usualy about 50 percent it would be better to have it geared up in my opinon. Also, I have to put the starter ring gear inside the gear box to start the engine so this has to go to the front gear also, if there is enough room I would like to put the intermediate gear coming out of the front of the gearbox for a accessory drive for Cooling and maybe a pull rope emergency start.

I get what you are saying now since you mentioned straight cut gears. I just got through changing the oiler gear in a Farmall 130 tractor and I had to disassemble the entire transmission. As you mentioned the reverse gear just slides back and forth on an separate rail and engages with the output shaft to spin the assembly in reverse rotation. Im eager to see how this turns out and how you manage to make your shift work. I assume you will have some sort of separate lever for reverse with a shift fork.

cant wait to see how this thing turns out!