Does anyone else have a problem with these switches wearing out rather quickly?

The current switch on my motor has maybe 30hrs on it, if that, and it already has trouble with the connection when trying to tilt the motor down. The first time I push it when I go out is the hardest to get it to work but once it starts working it seems to be alright throughout the trip.

I want to find a switch that will last longer and if possible put it on the end of the tiller and convert to a squeeze throttle.

Ideas?

Do you have a mikuni?

Yes, have a single mikuni.

I just found the hand throttle from bps on the mb website.

I really need to figure out the trim switch, no use buying another one from PD for $50 if it wont last.

Have 700+ hours on original switch.

My switch is flakey too. And its the down side that gives me the trouble. You gotta push it hard to get it to work where as up is just a touch and it works.

700hrs...wish i could find one that would last that long

same on this one, the down is starting to go bad again.

My reverse switch did the same thing and crapped out at 60 hours. Phowler provided another under warranty. I was warned about these switches and keep a spare on the boat.

I think that mashing the switch with heavy gloves on hastens the wear on the contacts. The switches appear to be designed for truck winches.

Has anyone had any success replacing these switches with a high amperage toggle switch or anything else more "glove friendly?"

From past experienc I have found if the switch goes out you can run a wire from the hot side of the battery and touch it to the exposed wire inside the trim switch box causing the motor to trim up or down depending if you touch the top or bottom wire. Im not very electrically inclined, but that leaves me to believe you have a hot wire going into the box and the switch sends power to either side of the electric motor depending wich way you push the button causing the elect motor powering the hydraulic pump to send fluid either way tho the ram.

If it is as simple as that a cheap three way toggle from wal mart should work. It may or may not hold up long but you could probably buy 20 for the pirce of 1 factory trim switch. If my thinking is totaly wrong, somebody please advise me because Monday when I get home I plan to pick a toggle up and test the theory, and would rather learn from some one elses experience than mess us something that isnt broke on my motor.

I see the downfall in the toggle being that you have to manually switch it to neutral instead of just releasing the button.

I think this switch would be a better choice. It is just a little less expensive than the factory switch, but I think it would be a little easier to operate.

http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/hot_feed/ ... Rotary.pdf

As soon as I destroy the next reverse or trim switch, I will try one of these. With duck season out, that should not happen for some time.

Changed mine out this season.Picked one of these up at Academy and wired it up with no problem.Just remove the box off the side and screw this one in its place.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/t ... x?a=260408

I have 200 hrs and have not had a problem.
Could some other problem be leading to you switch going out??

I have 200 hrs and have not had a problem.
Could some other problem be leading to you switch going out??

I have 200 hrs and have not had a problem.
Could some other problem be leading to you switch going out??

we heard you the first time! lol

The post-mortem on mine revealed that the metal (looks like copper) was just worn off of the contacts.

I bought the trim switch ya'll posted about above and installed it on the handle at the base of the twist throttle.

Wow, this switch works 10x better and its great being able to hit it with my pinkie/ring finger and not having to set my beer down to reach back and trim the motor.

Definately one of the best mods yet on this motor.

best part is that it cost 3x less than the stock switch

pics?

I have been wanting to put on of the 2 button switches on as well

Lets see where yall mounted em

I'll post some pics from my iphone soon

You can use a standard 3 prong momentary toggle switch on the old stype pumps ( the black ones with the 3 wires coming out of the motor ) with no problems as long as the switch can handle the amperage.

The New style pump switches require a positive wire AND a ground wire that get flipped flopped by the switch as stated above . They do make a 6 prong/post momentary toggle switch that can be retro fitted to work but they are a bit pricey.