Ok guys, I think I've done everything to get this sucka off and need some input. I went by the manual with stop pen, finally got prop nut off after an overnight soak with PB blaster. Prop not wanting to give at all... tried a 2x4 against both blades to get a break (left) and still no give, then tried a hard blow with the sledge hammer and still won't budge!! It's a SOB and I've run out of options... Any thoughts out there?? Thanks.

Poker1 Might be your man to contact. I believe he has a whole thread with pictures describing the process

Wasnt me but you just gonna have to put some azz into it. Thats why i tell everyone with a PD or any MM really that you should tear this stuff down every 12-18 months to re-grease or anti sieze certain items like a prop. Putting heat to it could damage your seals. Stuff like clutches, props and splines could sieze up or rust together causing some serious headaches. Pulling a LU and completely cleaning out old grease and sludge from the tower works wonders. I pulled one a couple years ago for a guy and thought it would tear the motor apart but it finally gave. Prop had been on for a good while.

I use to use a 4 ft piece of aluminum to get mine off

Ok, looks like gonna have to get mean with it and move up to a 10lb sledge or something. The lower unit is only a year old but the engine is a 2007 -36hp, don't know if they replaced the shaft then or not when the LU was replaced but it sure is tight. Thanks for everyone's help.

Yeah, think I'll call Peck in the AM get one of those prop wrench's then figure some extension to get the leverage. Then call in my Gorilla.

Prop wrench is just a bug ass piece of flat bar with a hole near the end for the prop shaft

Just remember that when you reinstall you put the spacer on first and then screw the prop on. DO NOT put them on as 1 piece. The nut just needs to be snug as it only protects the threads. Snug up the prop, it will tighten itself up when you run it.

Ok, thanks man..good advise.

I had the same problem. My "Prop Wrench" is a treated axe handle with a hole routed out towards the top and in the center of handle. You can measure the end of the handle before you drill to make sure you catch both blades. Make sure that what ever you use as a flywheel stop is a good fit. I used the handle of a socket wrench and had to sand down the grip to get it to fit just right. You can actually apply enough force with the axe handle to tweak the hole if the stop doesnt fit tight. I've done it twice and havent broken a handle. Hope that helps.

Chances are the prop bushing is whats giving you hell. Then again you did say you had issues with the nut coming off as well.! Thats usually the easiest part! LOL

Hopefully the threads aren't galled.


Anyway, Turn your prop until you see the split in the prop bushing ( stop it when its on top). if its full of shit try and clean it out some what the best you can. Thats where you want to spray your penetrating oil. trim your motor all the way down spray it again and let it soak. Then when your ready to give it another shot pour a little motor oil in the same place, this will lubricate it while it turns.

The prop bushing and shaft threads are really clean which suprised me orginally. However, the prop was another matter; it totally rusted and coroded but PB balster did a number on it and was able to git er off. I sprayed the heck out of it last night with PB right down the split and hoping a good soaking overnight helped. I plan on trying again tonight with some of the ideas mentioned with an aluminum pipe or axe handle that was mentioned. The 1/2" bolt in the stop has held well so far, hopefully will continue. I think they want you really pissed off before it gives up. It don't come easy does it....there's a song out there like that...must of been prying off MM props.

Coat the shaft with anti-sieze before you put it back on.

Finally!! Got this prop off...what a SOB!! After reading what others have done, I went and made me a tool with parts from my local tractor store. Bought a 36" Axe handle and tractor stay strap, drilled and bolted the strap to the axe handle and it worked perfectly. Still had too gorilla the thing but she finally broke. Thanks all of you guys for your help.
Proptool-1.jpgProptool2.jpgProptool3.jpg

Hey guys, here is a pic of my shaft...do I have a problem here?

I don't normally judge shafts...but if I have to, it looks Ok. LOL

OK thanks, it looked a little bent but setting behind it level I'm not sure.

you should put some anti-seize lube on the threads before you put it back together. or even some real quality marine grease. the kind they use for water pumps. it resist washout real well.

Good on removing the prop, But wouldn't it be better to have the tool catch BOTH blads so you wouldnt have a chance of scarring the threads on the shaft?

It would take alot to fuck up those threads

I tried to find metal that had a hole in the middle to distribute the leverage to both blades but couldn't find anything. I didn't want to have to get into drilling a solid piece, so settled for something with a whole large enough and already drilled on the end. I agree that it would have been better, without the risk of scarring the threads. The whole set up was cheap less that $15... $7 Axe handle and $7 tractor strap and a couple of bolts. I guess a 2x4 could have worked and with a hole frilled in the middle for about $3 but not sure that it would get both blades with its width and the blade angle.

Got the Locktite anti-seize marine grade and plan on putting the new prop on this evening. Thanks guys for the re-install advice, it was something to look forward to....now I;m here...sweet.

I always backed the nut off a little bit, an used a 24" pipe wrench. Cheater if necessary.

I can honestly say that I don't miss that shit!!

Yeah looked at them...cheapest was $11.99 and piece of chit ...better ones were $29.99 and definitely may do the job...just didn't look like I could get the leverage and out of my budget. Actually, it was the first thing I looked at...this sucka was a bitch man...I busted a bolt in the hole stop and it didn't break , have to get that out tonight. I had to have Ape Gorilla torque to get this one off and the only way to do that was to attach a long handle on the metal, the lawn mower blades didn't have good spots to attach and bolt.

Okay problem #2 trying to get the stinkin bolt out of the stop that I busted off...it screwed in some and helped held prop in place but now its busted flush ....any ideas? Or does it matter?

painful...ratchet extension wouldn't have busted...Pee!

Here is the good news. There are no moving parts inside the hole. The coupler if mounted solid to the bottom of the clutch and your bolt will not interfere with anything if you cant get it out. You will just have 1 hole to work with but not a problem.

That thing will be a bullet looking for a kidney when you start spinning it at 4000 rpm's!!!!


Best thing to do is pull the power head ( 4 bolts) remove the spline adapter (4 bolts) and pop it out from the inside out or from the other side with a punch.

bayouboy your're scarin me now...and Im risk averse big time...nothing like a solid project for tomorrow evening. stay tuned and thanks guys.

If it's stuck in there so tight that you broke it off my money says there is no way it's going to spin out by itself. But no better time to learn how to tear one apart.

if you are standing at the back of the motor dont you go to the left with the prop?

how do you keep the clutch from turning? i called prodrive and they said put 2 1/2 in bolts in the cluch and i look at the clutch and i see the 2 holes but it looks as if the is a bushing that covers up 3/4 of the holes. any suggestion? can shoot me a text messagE (270) 302-5984

I was using a hardened 1/2 bolt about 6 inches long and stuck it in the hole if I can remember right!