New to the forum here.... 2nd post actually, I'll be building my own boat in the spring or summer and am looking for ideas. My original plan was to build something in the 18-20 foot range but the more I think about it I lean towards a 16-17 footer. My original plans called for 1/8" marine grade aluminum but am now thinking 3/16" may be a better option. Would the benefits of the thicker skin outweigh the disadvantage of the added weight? I plan to use 2x2 tubing for the runners but don't know if I should use a pipe bender to curl them up to run along the bow or cut and weld them at an angle? Wondering whether or not to bend or roll the bottom to the sides, I've read that rolled sides perform better in the mud keeping the boat from "sucking" down into a mud bank? Should the bottom be left flat or should I try to add ribs for tracking? Sorry about the long post, but appreciate any help. I'm sure more questions will follow.
Thanks,
Adam

if you're gonna be on any of the ETX lakes you better go 3/16 bottom but dont need it on the sides but will also require building a 3 peice hull which is not bad just more time consuming

2x2 runners definately with 4 2x2 cross braces on top or nothced into the runners but not touching the bottom

If you have acess to a roller then bend the tubing to the rake otherwise notch and bend then weld back together (alot of work) but definately helps alot havin the runners all the way up the rake...for whatever the reason very few of the S.LA folks run the runners all the way up why I dont know all it takes is a roller dont recomend using pipe bender but if its all you have then migh try it but all it will do is crush the tubing

Round chines (rolled sides) track better then a boat with ribs on the bottom at high speeds, however don't track very well at all at slow speeds and also draft alot more water (sit lower in the water)...plus the only way you'll be able to have round chines and be efficiently strong is a one peice hull then if you go with 3/16 that would be a freakin heavy @$$ boat

Leave the bottom slick no ribs...ribs will get hung on stumps really easy, and also will make it harder to get off of vegetation mats and will add resistance on mud and then if you get beached or stuck in mud gonna be alot easier to turn and move the boat with a slick bottom

Thanks willett, so even if I had the option of going with a 1 piece 3/16" hull you'd still opt for 1/8" sides? That sure would make this thing easier to build.

Still thinking about doing a three piece hull like willett mentioned and after talking to my pops about it seems that it would still be pretty darn strong. So now thinking about doing the bottom out of the 3/16" 5052 and the sides out of 1/8" 5052.
Is it that important for the bottom to be "rolled" where it meets the sides or will a squared edge function decently enough in the event that I get into some thick stuff.
Would the boat benefit from having a tunnel incorporated into the hull? In addition to running it in the east Texas area I will also be making trips down to the bay for hunting/fishing trips and want to be able to get into some of the real sticky spots.

Don't put a tunnel in dat hull. And a square chime will give you much better performance in da thick shiat, you'll just have to take it easy on da turns till you figure it out.

It's been interesting because I had read somewhere that the boat needed a rounded chine so that it wouldn't stick in bank or flat but every picture I see of mud boats are squared off. Guess rounded isn't all that important after all unless you're wanting to be able to do donuts in the mud.

it doesn't matter what kind of chine you have, it will slide if you're driving in the mud. round chines turn really sharp in deep water. they track horribly at idle speed. they also sit deeper in the water... most folks say they go a little bit slower, and don't carry a load as well. square chines sit higher in the water, so they will slide, UNTIL you learn how to drive them, then it's not an issue.

DONT USE 5052......if you dont belive me call all the boay builders and ask them wat happens with 5052.

Also if are going to carry a heavy load.1K or more brace the crap out of it.

Lots of boats in the ET are of all types so lok at all of them beforr you build one.

Why not 5052? Family has been in the metal fab business for over 60 years and have always either used stainless steel or 5052 for saltwater marine applications, including boats.

Did u use it for boat bottoms?

5052 is soft and bends easy....once it bends alot is work hardens and wll not bend anymore. once it stops bending it starts cracking.

If you dont bend it or put it is alot of stress you will be ok...but if you want the hull to last a lifetime dont use 5052 for the bottom.

Hadn't thought about that. We usually fabricate fuel tanks out of the stuff and have built one scooter for an uncle, but that's obviously a different kind of boat. So you think 3/16" 5086 might be a little bit better?

I've found a few different examples of aluminum rub rails available but was wondering if anybody has any knowledge as to one style being better than another?

what are you moving to Longview for? Let me know when you get here... I live in town.

on another note... I've owned both kinds... round chine godevil style, and square chines... never saw a bit of difference when it came to pushing when you're stuck.

With Crew and u in the same town the boay u build will be the best in the USA.

Get willet to help and u could have the best on this rock.

Buy the material from me and it will be the best in the universe..


Or you could just by my rig and cut the shit!!!


let us know when u get here and if u need a place to stay ii got a few rent houses that might be empty.

I'm definitely getting some great ideas from you guys. Where I'm at now is looking at building about a 17x52 with a pointed bow. I'm going to use 3/16" for the bottom with about a 3" flange that I will weld the 1/8" sides to. I'm thinking 20" sides and am still not sure what to use for rub rails. What are the thoughts on using closed cell foam for added flotation? I have been thinking about using 2x2" square tubing for my longitudinal ribs and my cross braces, then filling the void between the bottom and the deck with closed cell "pourable" marine foam then just bolting my deck to the top of the square tubing. Thoughts? Am I on the right track?

The three inch flange I am referencing would be about a 80 degree bend on each side of the bottom and would weld the sides to the outside of this edge. I'd run a solid bead inside and out, essentially giving me a 5/16" edge running along the edge of the boat three inches high. Only con I can think of this would be getting water trapped in between the two sheets.

Hey guys, my names josh. kinda new to the site. only my 2nd post. I live in longview and im savin up to buy a prodrive rig. lookin at the 18x54 with the 36 tiller. i went down to the shop and went on a demo with peck and was blown away. anyway...just wanted to introduce myself and say hey.