Bought a hickory railroad pick handle at Ace ($11). Drilled 3/4" hole so prop shaft fit through it. One good push on the ole hickory and the prop spun no problems. No damage to the prop using wood.

Pulled my prop off today after much trouble and a lot of liquid wrench PB!! I used a piece of 2" x 4" dunnage from Home Depot that was already grooved. Not being at my house where I have unlimited access to a LARGE selection of tools....a hammer and a flat blade screwdriver chiselled out the hole for the prop shaft!

But, it finally came off! Got the bushing off and dropped it into the new Hopkins prop....and wasn't happy with the fit. So, guess I need to get that prop to PD and let them drop it in their lathe to clean it up some.

Thank goodness for hex shafts.

U need to get any Hopkins prop to PD before u run it on your motor. Was a $900 mistake on my part. PD cuts the prop and gives u a new bushing for free.

Yeah, that prop has been sitting on my counter now for two weeks. I have been debating on how I wanted to handle it and if I even wanted to tell G1en Hopkins about. I know there is some bad vibes between him and PD. Been one of those "moral" debates in my mind about getting what I paid for vs. making sure it gets done right.

I don't doubt G1en's knowledge of props. I'm sure he knows his business when it comes to specifying a particular prop for a particular set up. But, I am able to see the difference between the original tulip hub vs. the cleaver hub machined surfaces. The tulip has a smooth, mirror finish. The cleaver needs to have a skim cut made to smooth it out where the bushing sits. I have read about the consequences here and Peck told me about them before I ever ordered the prop. I just didnt' know what to look for until I pulled the original off.

I pretty much have decided to let PD drop it in their lathe and get it right for me. They know their motors, specs and tolerances better than anybody else.

I like to think that I am pretty mechanically inclined. But I cannot picture in my head what it is y'all are doing with the handle. Pics or better description please!!

Sent using Morse Code from my not so smart phone.

Don't know of this will show up well or not, but here are the hub pics showing the differences. I have the bushing pulled to one side in the cleaver photo to show the gap; minute as it may be. But, on the tulip, there is no wiggle and no gap.






Sent using Morse Code from my not so smart phone.

Brilliant.

I always use a peice of 2x4 tubbing to hold the prop and let the ground hold it then spin the jam nut with a big wrench but not gamilar with prodrive set up

Heat Shaft up and once hot put cold water on it. Prop will come off much easier?

Good idea but bad on the seal rather heat the prop if anything

I aint ever heated one to get it off u might have to put put alil more than normal but usually come off with out heat and my motor come from bay town where the guy who had it run in nothin but saltwater

I've got a gdlt that I bought used and the lower ft is rusted so bad the lower bushing is exposed cause the outer pipe is gone. Any how I've pb blastered it, areokroled it, sightly heated it and prop wont budge. I've locked ujiint and used back up wrench on nut just infront of prop and have a 3 ft prop wrench that I've bounced on repeatedly but prop wont buge. Open to any ideas

This is how I remove a prop/cleaver!

I better go out and take that Cleaver off of mine and re-never-sieze it after ever trip!!

That's a $300 prop....well....$150 x's 2.

I would if I was you! lol

Did you have PD turn down the hub or did you leave it as Hopkins gave it to you?


Sent using Morse Code from my not so smart phone.