Putting a 23 hp mud buddy on my boat. I need a fuel tank, line, etc and am debating putting it in the front of the boat rather than the back to help the boat plane out.

A few questions,

what fuel line should I get since i don't think it's the same as a regular outboard (didn't think to look) and has a different connection to the engine. I assume to squeeze ball on the line?

Is there a difference in flow quality over a greater distance (4 ft vs 14 ft?)

Any other help is appreciated.

Generally, for most applications, a 1/4" internal diameter fuel line is best. I am not familiar with the 23 Briggs. My 18 Briggs, 25/27 Kohlers, all had the mechanical fuel pumps and no bulb was required but I never placed the gas tank in the front. I chose to put my full-size battery up front for weight distribution (plus toolbox and other items) and with a battery and longer run you would need a heavier gauge wire...if your motor is equipped with an electrical fuel pump, a longer run like your 14' one might be compromised and you may need a squeeze bulb. My friend had a 24 Honda some years ago (that was a real lemon) and he had problems with fuel rate from his electric pump from the get-go. He had a squeeze bulb on his and that saved him a couple of trips when his electric pump failed and he putted back to the ramp. I wish I could help more, but I am sure somebody here has done it with their 23 Briggs (both a longtail or surface drive), and hopefully they will pipe up! Have patience. For me, moving the battery was easier/better, since I also have a bow mount trolling motor, and I thought shielded battery cables might be safer as well to run along the sides of the hull rather than a fuel line below the floor. Here in Florida, with the heat and humidity, I notice the fuel line deteriorates in a few seasons, so I replace it (along with the one to the carb and the section above the fuel filter) regularly. This would be more of a chore if I have to remove the flooring but I guess it can be "fished" out easily if the run is clean and free of obstructions, sorry for the rambling but that is the way of it, and sometimes trial and error is the only way. Let us know how it goes! Try the search function here!

Generally, for most applications, a 1/4" internal diameter fuel line is best. I am not familiar with the 23 Briggs. My 18 Briggs, 25/27 Kohlers, all had the mechanical fuel pumps and no bulb was required but I never placed the gas tank in the front. I chose to put my full-size battery up front for weight distribution (plus toolbox and other items) and with a battery and longer run you would need a heavier gauge wire...if your motor is equipped with an electrical fuel pump, a longer run like your 14' one might be compromised and you may need a squeeze bulb. My friend had a 24 Honda some years ago (that was a real lemon) and he had problems with fuel rate from his electric pump from the get-go. He had a squeeze bulb on his and that saved him a couple of trips when his electric pump failed and he putted back to the ramp. I wish I could help more, but I am sure somebody here has done it with their 23 Briggs (both a longtail or surface drive), and hopefully they will pipe up! Have patience. For me, moving the battery was easier/better, since I also have a bow mount trolling motor, and I thought shielded battery cables might be safer as well to run along the sides of the hull rather than a fuel line below the floor. Here in Florida, with the heat and humidity, I notice the fuel line deteriorates in a few seasons, so I replace it (along with the one to the carb and the section above the fuel filter) regularly. This would be more of a chore if I have to remove the flooring but I guess it can be "fished" out easily if the run is clean and free of obstructions, sorry for the rambling but that is the way of it, and sometimes trial and error is the only way. Let us know how it goes! Try the search function here!

I've got my tank up front on my 23 never had a problems with it. Stock motor I do have the bulb in the back by the motor. Get good fuel line make sure all connections are tight and roll with it.

My tank is up front on mine...stock 23 as well, primer bulb up front. I have 3/8" ID line from the tank up to the the inline fuel filter at the engine then 1/4" to the pump. No problems with it.

Ok sounds good. I'm gonna get it rigged up and take it out next weekend for the first run.

Any good tips on what to do to get it tuned up and running well? Figure I'll change out the spark plugs, clean the carb, oil change.

Any longtail specific tips to tune it up?

bluesky, if you don't have a Tiny Tach, get one. This is necessary to make sure you are running right at idle, top end, under load, etc. I got mine direct and saved some $, the LT mfg.'s generally charge a few $ more. I got rid of the foam "pre-breather" around the air filter on my 27 Kohler, the carb now breathes better, after all, we are not cutting grass in the marsh except in the water. If the carb gives you problem, might be time to rebuild it...those kits are fairly inexpensive and it is a great investment. I was proud of doing it myself, now there are youtube videos to help, as well as pdf files giving step by step instructions. Make sure you gap the plugs at the recommended number, mine are at .030" . After break in, or on new motors, many mfg.'s recommend synthetic oil and grease. Some say it does not matter, I happen to think it does..I detect less friction in the tube and the motor runs smoother, although my Kohler is cold starting finicky and all motors have their characteristics. Don't skimp on the quality of fuel line, plugs, and like I said oil and grease. The stock mufflers do get rusty right away but if there is any pitting or cracking change it out! Those stainless steel mufflers are pretty and would love to have one but I think they are $400 so I have not yet purchased one. That would be my choice but stock is fine. Every year I torque down the engine mounting bolts and check the ones securing the handle. For heaven's sake make sure your kill switch works and wear the lanyard- that could save your butt! I've had to change out the throttle cable twice since 2004, check that. In the last post I mentioned to inspect the fuel line and replace it when you spot any cracking, etc. There are variations on the fuel filter, I like the larger ones. I stopped using the cheap Fram oil filters a while back after I read some horror stories about them so I stepped up to a Bosch equivalent. Lastly, guys here have recommended both Sea-Foam and Stabil additives to the gas to help in the fight against the ethanol and water moisture buildup and other problems to fuel. I use the blue Stabil and it seems to help. I do test run my motor frequently to prevent gumming and keep it "fresh", I know many who have had problems by leaving it dead for many months and then finding the carb gummed up and other issues. Of course I can run mine year round and I can understand long winters and strategies for that.