Trying to remove the skeg so i can send it into PD for a grease conversion.

Removed the ten allen screws on the knuckle, but had to drill out the three allen bolts where skeg attaches to transom side of knuckle. Skeg wont seem to drop. Do i also need to remove the 3 bottom allen bolts that connects the top of the skeg near the prop?

These allen bolts will not budge and if the other 3 n3ed to be removed gonna have to drill thise out to, which sucks.

Thx for any help.

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Spray those bolts down with PB blaster or am equal penetrating oil. Let them sit a few hours. Try them. If not, get a torch and heat them up. They will come loose... I have a motor run in saltwater and I got them off....

Did all of the above but maybe using the wrong peneyrating oil. What is pb blaster? Boat is 2008

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Make sure you have the correct size hex, and then use an impact.

wd40 rust penetrator is some good stuff too.

Wemt and got pb blaster and allen socket so i can hav more leverage than an allen wrench.. we will see if this works, other wise gonna try and borrow an impact drill. Will let you know fellas. What a PITA

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impact...

penetrating oil, and an impact....

An impact will help if you bought a socket drive. If you dont have an impact, tap on the socket a few times then put the rachet on. Aluminum and steel... What a combo...

quit playing with it and put out. u will either unscrew it or break the bolt. use a well fitting allen wrench.

I used impact on mine and the bit would keep breaking. Had to drill out. But they were the original ones from 07. Bought some new ones from PD, fairly cheap.

Lots of penetrating oil...PB Blaster or Knock'er Loose...often and ample amounts. Cordless impact with the correct head size...can't remember exactly...but, the bolt size is 5/16 x 1"....don't ask me how I know this. LOL


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Just checked, the recessed allen hex is 3/16".


Most liberals seem to suffer from the same mental condition....it's called stupidity!

Just got the beast off and off to KP. Should probably think about replacing the skeg. Sent a PM to BB and see it he still is doing this.

thanks all

When you put them back in put some anti-seize on it.


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so just being paranoid, with the lower unit wide open, without the skeg being attached. I want to make sure no shit got in there before I put it back together. It looks clean as hell, but how should I go about cleaning the inside of the knuckle just to make sure?

Thanks

Not quite understanding you. If you removed just the skeg, put it back in the slot and bolt it back up. If you removed the outdrive housing from the knuckle like this:




Then, just just rinse it out with any liquid lubricant leaving the fill/drain plugs open. Put it back together and fill her back up with 90 weight gear lube and roll.


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Not to hijack, but Troy, in looking at that pic, do you think its possible to change out the outdrive gear to change ratios? I've never taken mine apart to see if its possible. Could get a smaller or larger outdrive to change the ratios.

Thanks Troy. I did remove the outdrive knuckle as I sent it into ProDrive for a grease conversion. It looks spotless, but will take your advise to make sure. I understand from PD that I will have to tap a new plug for fill/ drain. PD is supposed to send me a pic of where this should be tapped on the knuckle, but if anyone has a pic of what this looks like and location, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Banded...yes...but, it would be expensive to have a new one machined from billet. If it was practical, I would have already made a new shaft with a splined end and got rid of the threaded! LOL. I've even thought about just pulling this shaft, having it weld built up and machined to a hex for prop changing purposes. I think this would be an awesome retrofit for the Gen II's. Prodrive could prolly sell a lot of shafts and props!


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Mudder, which threaded plug do you have to install! Here are some pics from mine...and one I had saved of Will's with the plug locations.




Let me know and I will get you some measurements.


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Thanks BS

Looks like I need that middle one. I am having a grease conversion done by PD and will no longer need the one near the prop. That lower end will have a zerk fitting installed(I think) for grease so I will no longer get water passed the lower seal into the LU oil. This way I will only need to fill the knuckle with LU oil. I just cant figure out how the knuckle will fill up with LU oil with that one existing fill plug in the middle where your left arrow is. Maybe it does not need to be to the top???

No, it does not fill to the top.

The grease zerk for the Gen II LU is located just in front of the cav plate, on the top of the outdrive housing, just behind the knuckle. Not sure if they put it in the same place for the conversions or not.

The tapped plug at the back of the outdrive housing was for the old style, oil filled outdrives. Now, it's nothing more than an inspection port that never needs to be removed for the grease filled outdrives. Leave it open as you insert the new grease. Once grease hits that spot, Teflon tape the plug and thread it in.

The tapped plug on the side of the knuckle was the old style "top" plug or vent for the oil filled outdrive. You filled gear lube into the knuckle and outdrive from the one on the outdrive housing. Once it came out the top hole, you put the Teflon taped plug into it and did the same with the fill hole. That top plug still has the same function. Only difference is; now, you will need to drill and tap the fill location on the bottom of the knuckle.

I'll get you some measurements in a few.


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Thanks for all the great info Blue, much appreciated. This upgrade is a hell of a lot less than replacing the lower unit, which was bound to happen with the pancake batter I kept draining from it.

Man, sorry! I totally dropped this...got sidetracked on a pistol trade!

Pix and measurements. About 5/8" off the edge of the skeg guide and 1-5/8" from the back of knuckle; before it meets the outdrive housing flange.



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Another look...~ 3/4" from the skeg bolt centerline.



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Awesome info, helps alot blue. They are shipping it back tomorrow. 2 day turn around. PD has great CS

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One more question...i imagine you filll from the top, or side plug, since the new one will be under the knuckle????

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No...fill from the bottom of the knuckle until it's coming out of the side (top) hole.

Teflon tape both plugs and have them nearby/within reach. Use the spout on the 90 weight gear lube bottle to stick in the bottom hole. Squeeze the oil out of the bottle into the knuckle. When it comes out the top hole, pull your oil bottle out the hole, cover it with your finger until you grab the plug and thread it in. Then, thread the top plug into the side of the knuckle.


Most liberals seem to suffer from the same mental condition....it's called stupidity!

Thanks man, appreciate all the great info.

No problem, man. Good luck with it all. If you have anymore questions, just ask.


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Thanks for everyone's help with this, especially Blue. Got the LU back last week and tapped the new drainplug and reinstalled the LU using never seize on the allen bolts. Only problem is filling that bitch up from the new drain plug since it is now almost underneath the knuckle. MESSY!! Next time I need to replace the LU oil, which should not be too often with this upgrade, I think I will fill from the side plug rather than underneath. I know you are supposed to fill from the lower to get rid of air pockets.

Anyone else fill from the upper fill rather than the lower? Any issues here?

Fill it from the the top (side plug) until it runs out like a truck differential. Fuck all that filling it from the bottom bullshit. The reason when you used to fill the old style from the top, air would get trapped in the shaft area and you'd think it was full but it wasn't, then later the air pocket would come out and it would be low on oil. Even then, I filled it from the top and turned the prop to work the air out, you can do the same now. Fill it from the side until it runs out, put the plug back in, crank it, spin the prop, turn it off and check the level, top it off if needed.

Agreed^^^. Never understood filling from the bottom when you can just spin the prop, then check it. Mine has never been low


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Great info, thanks all!!!