I've been dragging my feet on this project for a while but I'm trying to kick it in high gear before September. One problem is I keep adding to the project the more I think about it. Here is my list of things I want to accomplish.

Remove Foam
Build "Cubby Holes" in the pods
Reroute wires
Repaint
Gator Glide
Hydro Turf
More lights/Larger switch panel
Winch

Here are a few pics of how the boat sat a couple months ago.

This is my 1st big project like this so it will be a learning process.

I had my new motor scheduled to pick up at the end of May and hoped to have the GG on by then. With all the rain in TX that didn't happen. I did flip the boat and prepped for it at the time. I have ignored the bottom of my boat the entire time I've owned it needless to say it was a little rough.

I finished removing the foam in the front and the floor a couple days ago. I've heard enough that it was a pain but I had no idea.

I am wanting to do the same thing to my 16x48 GD. Really wanting to remove the front foam for more storage. That's my biggest complaint of GD is the lack of storage. Keep us posted with your pics.

foam removal looks fun!

Tons of fun!

Here are a couple questions I have and I have seen mixed answers on my search for the prep questions and just wondering about the last.

What is the best way to prep new aluminum?
What is the best way to prep corroded/pitted aluminum?
Are there any advantages or is it worth painting the sub floor to help protect your boat hull?

Aluminum can be cleaned with a mix of plain vinegar and water. This will neutralize and remove most anything on the surface. I used scotch brite and acetone to clean the bottom of my new unpainted boat before doing gator glide.

Cracked the pods last night.

The majority of it wasn't bad at all. The worst parts were up against the hull especially around the clogged drain that was leaking into the pod.

I began priming the floors and will begin welding a shelf into the pods tonight. It feels a lot better now that I'm putting stuff back into the boat as apposed to ripping stuff out. Once the welding and priming is complete I Plan to flip it and slap on the GG. I should have enough work while it's curing.

Looks good man are you gonna brace the back pods?

Thanks. I'm planning to build a cubby/open gun box (not sure what to call it) but I will add some angle to beef it up before. I will be leaving a 4" gap at the bottom to be able to wash out the drain from the front.

Got the 1st cubby welded in last night.

Looks good, what's dimensions on the slots. Can a gun in a case slide underneath?


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The cubby opening is 5 3/4"x47" with a 7 1/2" shelf and should be able to hold a couple guns depending on the size of the cases. The bottom is 4" high and opens to the drain from the front of the boat. I left this open to be able to wash the mud and other junk out of there but I will also store my paddle and other junk that can get wet while not blocking the drain. The opening to the drain is fairly narrow both in the front and the back of the boat but I don't feel comfortable cutting in those areas to try to open it up.

Made a little progress. Got the other cubby in place and cut and fit the floor for the front compartment. Next up rivet the floors in and finish prepping for paint. Hopefully things will speed up a little.

This is how she's sitting now.

Looking good

Lol removing that foam was fun huh lol. Turbo nozzle on a power washer is messy but way faster !

I used a pressure washer right at the end. Live and learn I guess . Up to that point a dill with the biggest bit I could find was about the easiest.

Lol I was using a small shovel but learned quick that didn't work. Lol turbo nozzle was deffinatley the way to go.

Still trying to get the metal work finished up in the back but getting there for paint. Still hoping to have it painted (- the GG) by Monday.

You putting lights into the bow up there? Guess I gothink lucky with the foam on mine. First pod all came out all in one big piece and the other took about 10 minutes to cut out with a sawzall

Not sure if you're asking about the "head lights" or under the deck, but either way yes. I rigged up rigid d2 wides for those to try to save some deck space and a dually spot for the light on top of the deck. The only complaint I have is I wish the spot threw a lil more light or wider beam. I may replace it with a d2 xl driving or spot this year. I also plan to put a led strip under the deck before teal season.

I got the metal work finished up last night and aside from being a couple rivets short I also got the floor down. I should be able to get the sanding and most of the clean up wrapped up tonight and able to get the paint on tomorrow.

Sounds like you did have a cake walk with the foam out. It would have been much easier if I would have cut the entire pod out but I wanted to minimize welding it back in. If you ever decide to remove the foam from the front defiantly go with the pressure washer. It makes a hell of a mess but by far easier then anything else I tried.

Got some paint on yesterday. Some parts are a lil rough because of lack of planning on my part but overall I'm happy with the outcome. The floor is really rough but the turf will cover that. Now on to piecing it together enough to make the ride this weekend. The pics are a not the greatest but here it is.

Looks awesome man. What all you got left to put together?

Not too much just the essentials wiring, fuel stuff, bilge, #'s, etc.

What is that little square hole I'm seeing where the grab bar would go into the sleeves?
Keep it, enjoyed this thread and gives me some good ideas

That is for my switch panel. I originally had a 4 switch and will now be cramming an 8 in there. I figured that was the most protected/accessible area in the boat. I'll probably be putting the 4 switch back in just for the ride. I''ll put up some pics of how I have my wiring set up in the dry box on Thursday.

Glad someone's getting something out of the thread.

Got the boat ready for the ride.

Looks good man I bet that thing is gonna haul ass lol

I ran the boat for the first time yesterday since removing the flotation. There was an immense improvement in the way the boat handled(turning, getting on top, and coming off of step). I tried to get a speed with my gps but it kept kicking off for some reason (w/ fresh batteries). The boat had a light load <6 gals gas in the front 50lbs battery, full 30qt ice chest, and me in the rear with the GF somewhere in between running in <3'. While trying to keep the GPS on I saw 29.3 mph. I'd be willing to bet I broke 30 but can't confirm that.

Keep in mind the boat still has a bare aluminum bottom.

The only issue I saw was on the ride back to the landing the boat wanted to porpoise quite a bit. I think this was happening due to less gas/weight in the front. I think once i get my 2nd battery up there the issue will be gone.

I'm getting ready to slap some GG on the bottom. Last night I sanded it down with 80 grit but I'm a little concerned about the corrosion pits I have. I plan to hit those with a vinegar/water mix and a wire brush, then go over the hull with 120 grit, followed by acetone before application. Would this be the best way to handle the pits/prep? any suggestions would be appreciated.

Wow I don't no how I missed this thread. Nice work man. You looks like a kid at chunky cheese in all that foam. Pressure cleaner would have done you justice. Those are some deep pits. Yes on the sanding with 80 ,wire brush, vinegar/ water 30% vinegar to water, neutralize with baking soda and water, rinse really well acetone and then you may want to fill some of the real heavy pitting with liquid weld ( not the fast dry stuff). Let it cure out for 5 to 7 days ( I know it says 72 hrs on it but trust me)! Look in the pit with a magnifying glass, you may have to do the vinegar a couple time before soda.

Thanks. Just an unhappy kid in the ball pit.

So 5 days on the liquid weld, 3 on the GB, & how long on the GG?
Looks like I may be out of the running for the teal opener.

Thanks. I assumed you meant JB, didn't think liquid nail would have been the best choice.

I should be good on timing for some reason I was thinking I need 3 days of cure for the base and 6 days for the glide.