If a guy could put a clutch on a LT with a stall speed of about 2500 rpms and subsequently run a bigger prop.........?


Anybody tried something like this or gave it any thought?

Seems to me it would be a bit of a jerk when she kicks in at 2500 rpm's. It would have to be a heavy duty centrifugal clutch to hold up to grinding on the bottom.

I'd rather have an electric clutch so I can engage/ disengage whenever.

You could prolly build a gear reduction drive like on a sd with a super-short belt and long output shaft and be better off.

Get too big of a prop and you'll lose your hard bottom capabilities, with just a 16 hp motor on a 3 to 1 you wouldnt have nearly enough rpm's at the prop.

Just think, if you motor is running at 3000, the prop is turning 1000 rpms. Thats not much more than idle.

What if you went the other way with the gears. Say 1 to 1.5 or even 1.25 so the prop would be spinning faster.

What about a cvt clutch like a snowmobile? Could have both low gear bottom high gear top and always in the power band.

Orion outboards makes a small surface drive using centrifugal clutches. I have experimented with cvt surface drives, fine tuned a 6.5 hp with a comet cvt to turn a 9x7 longtail prop, gets load up, one man 17 mph. I need to try a surfacing prop. cvt does work, but it has many moving parts that will need adjustment eventually.

MB offered the cent clutch for awhile. There is a good reason they don't anymore. They don't last very long.

would anyone here know wher to find plans on build a surface drive? i have and idea on how to but if anyone has plans i would greatly appreciate it.

whats the difference between using a clutch and pulling the prop out of the water??? Same result, no?

It's not that difficult but a clutch sure comes in handy. I don't think I would go without one. B ut that being said there's tons of guys with godevils that love them

One of the advantages of an LT is the smaller prop in shallow water and hard bottom areas, whereas the surface drive becomes a liability. MB has the SLT with a small clutch and belt with gear reduction....most reports are positive but I don't want belt/clutch failure. I'd rather have the direct drive and more reliability over the long term. Push down on the handle and prop comes out of the water- that is neutral. "nuf said.

I think it would be awesome for neutral in a long tail.
Coming up to stuff, like jugs or banks frogging, you could put in neutral and use the prop in water to slow you down.
We usually leave all at once to go hunting, with 10 longtails pushed out trying to turn, it would be nice to put in neutral for a paddle or when a prop goes over your bow.

Keeping the tail shaft in the water when you put it in neutral allows you to steer the boat with any forward momentum you have.....vs. having no control once you lift the prop out of the water.

Ya'll do know this thread was started over 5 years ago.... just sayin.

swamp_fox, my suggestion is to draw lots #1-10 and stagger your LT hunting departures. Tough chit if you draw last. On the other hand, I get up earlier and beat everybody out. I've been driving LT's for 27 years without clutches or neutral; I replace my homemade push poles (read- REVERSE) every couple of years. I'm still waiting for someone to donate a premium fiberglass one so I can scratch that from my "to do" list. Everybody can get a VHF radio if you don't have phone service, and that way BS all morning.

Agree a clutch would be a real convenience for many users, and in places where there is not much risk of impact shock to the drive. After all OBs started out as direct drive and eventually added clutches and gears to meet user demand. But LTs were developed to go where OBs couldn't go or wouldn't survive for very long. So the KISS principle is more important in such places, where reliability is essential, and ease of repair is a real asset. Similar argument has been going on in MMT between GDSD fans and supporters of the other SDs with clutches and gears.

It's only when we dog hunt, stand rows leave at same time..not really a big deal, but would help

I was joshing, swamp, I had been thinking of the MB SLT, but it is more expensive than the other mfg. 35 HP LT...the other thing is the added belt drive/clutch is one more thing to go wrong and then you are stranded. I've been stranded only three times- one was a bad starter; the other was a sheared prop; the other time I was almost killed by a bass boat that ran over midships and sheared the top of the motor! Lucky it did not shear me in half! Damn! I finished the season limping because the key in the shaft keyway slipped out...found a bigger one 1/4" x 5/16", grinded it down and rammed it in and it held the last few hunts. One time I was down a river with an 18 HP GD LT, and the same chit happened and I rammed a couple of sardine can keys and it held long enough to get back to the landing.

I can tell I have had a 35cdi super long tail 3 yrs now no problems it performs great in all in mud,hard bottom and deep water long runs. I have a heavy boat 17x54 Gator trax plus carry a big load layout boat big dog lots of decoys and I get to the hunting area long before my buddies with other 35hp LT

4rivers, you are one of the positive reviewers/owners of the SLT, and I know the design has always attracted me. Have you had any issues getting spare parts? I understand MB contracted out the SLT production...does that mean they won't support them with parts? If I could count on CS for the SLT, I would be most interested. For the record, my 2004 MB 27 HP LT has been rock solid until this year with the slipped shaft key but any motor after being run hard for ten years will need refurbishing. I have no issues with MB, though they sent me the wrong gas tank for the Kohler (it was for a Kawasaki), and no mounting bolts for the motor! They quickly sent me the right tank and I found the bolts locally. They are definitely pushing their high priced surface drives but I don't see the same commitment to the SLT or LT's in general; I did hear they were marketing a newer improved 35 HP LT, but I don't see it on their site yet. What size prop do you run on the SLT 35? The standard 35 LT is rated at 200 lbs. on the MB site; what is the approximate weight of the SLT 35? All the best, Glades.

They had been talk at one point of Boat DR taking over the production of the SLT don't think that ever came about but based on my experience with Boat DR in the past that would not scare me away. I think my prop size is 9/8.5 I have heard some people on the MB forum who have the big blade on a SLT and don't like it. Don't know about a improved LT but had a friend but a SLT with the Black Death 45 motor before this season and Mud Buddy assured him the SLT was popular and they plan to continue. Don't know exact weight but does not seem nearly as heavy as my 35 HyperDrive I have on another boat

10-4! I would just want the assurance that spare parts are available...you have already stated the reliability of the SLT up to the present. Right now I will need new bearings, shaft, yoke, etc., and I am hoping MB has them in stock for my 2004 model, not that I am in a hurry right now since duck season is over, though I use the boat for fishing in the off season and always hunt teal season. The bigger prop on the SLT would not be an advantage in the skinny since it needs to be submerged and needs a hair more water. The gear reduction does give you neutral but the prop size increase is limited, as you stated some SLT owners did not like the bigger prop. The BackH20 35 swomp is rated at 220#, do you think the SLT is much above that? I believe the shortails start at around 260# and go up from there. I would love to drive both the SLT 35 and the BackH20 swomp 35 and really be able to make a decision. Thanks for the input!